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Hey guys got my platinum sport 2000 for sale, comes with RB engine patch harness which will suit RB20, RB25, RB26

brand new and never been used, only reason for sale is im going in a different direction

2 grand delivered to your motherf**king door

Message me on 0434121069

High Performance Fuel and Ignition ECU

With 14 channels capable of controlling injection and ignition duties, the Platinum Sport 2000 can support most modern engines (including 3 rotor engines) with multi-coil or conventional distributor ignition systems as well as aftermarket CDI systems.

It is capable of controlling sequential injection on 4,6,8,10 & 12 cylinder engines and direct fire ignition for engines up to 6 cylinders, or wasted spark ignition on engines up to 8 cylinders.

Features:

•11 additional user-definable auxillary inputs

•Up to 13 additional user-definable auxillary outputs (Depending on configuration)

•Fully user-definable 32 x 32 mapping ( Up to 1024 points)

•Wideband “Auto tuning” using user definable target AFR table

•Narrow and Wideband closed loop O2 control

•Staged injection control for multiple injectors per cylinder (inc rotary)

•3D mapped rotary engine ignition split

•Soft and hard cut rev limiter

•EGT fuel correction

•Tuning via TPS with manifold pressure correction

•Dual map switching for fuel/ign/boost

• Anti-lag (Rally and Launch style)

•Rotational idle

•Launch Control

•VTEC cam timing control

•VANOS cam control (intake cam only)

•True variable cam control supporting late model Toyota’s, WRX’s and EVO’s

•Dual intake runner control

•Onboard 2.5 BAR MAP sensor (or use with external MAP up to 10 BAR)

•Custom sensor calibration (Use your own sensors for temps or fuel/oil pressure etc)

•Open or closed loop boost control ( Road speed, RPM or gear based mapping)

•Closed loop idle control (Stepper motor and BAC type)

•Extra injector control

•Thermo-fan control ( Duty cycle or on/off )

•Intercooler fan/spray

•Alternator control (Mazda)

•Engine control relay function

•Nitrous switching with fuel / ignition correction

•Staged shift lights

•Aux fuel pump control

•Tacho output (5v,8v,12v)

•Turbo timer

•Torque converter lock up

•Air con request idle up

•Windows 2000, XP, Vista compatible software

•”In the field” updatable Firmware provides all the new features as soon as they are available

•Onboard and laptop data logging with Data Viewer software

•USB communication with laptop/PC

•CAN Bus port for direct plug in communication with Racepak and Aim Dash system.

Typical Applications:

•Control of fuel injection on modified engines

•Conversion from carburetion to fuel injection

•Race and rally applications of all description

•Design and development purposes

•Educational use by universities and technical colleges

•Original equipment in cars and motorcycle

The Kit includes:

ECU Programmable Computer, USB Programming Cable,Instruction Manual (In Software), Programming Software

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  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
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