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All located in Fairfield, pick up over postage but can post Australia wide via E-GO. Most prices negotiable. Need all this gone ASAP so make an offer and 90% you won't be dissapointed!

RB25DE NEO - $400 - cheap conversion for your ride on lawnmower!

RB25DET Auto Turbo Gearbox - $300

RB25 Clutch Fan - $50

R34 GTT A/C Condenser - $80

R34 OEM Strut Brace - $80

R34 GTT OEM SMIC Air Duct - $20

R34 GTT RB25DET Cover - $50

R34 Power Steering Reservoir - $30

R34 GTT HKS Hyper D Front Coil Overs - $300

R33 A/C Condenser - $80

R33 Left Tail light - $50

R33 Non airbag steering wheel - $50

R33 S1 Rear seats - $30

R33 Bonnet - $150

R33 S1 Left Guard - $30, has dent but good condition

R33 S1 Right Guard - $50 good condition but has glue from side skirts

R33 S1 Fuel door - $20

R33 Front Shocks - $100

Good condition, came off a wreck so I can't confirm how long the shocks have been on there for but it looks like low Ks as theres little to no markings or signs of abuse. The car had 98000Ks on the odo but taking into consideration that there were OEM shocks there, would be less than that.

  • 3 weeks later...

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  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
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