Jump to content
SAU Community

Had Both Front Hubs +Control Arms Replaced, Problems Now Worse. No More Money = Diy.

sonicz
 Share

Recommended Posts

sonicz Rising Star

sonicz

Posted
Posted (edited)

I had what I suspected was worn out/loose bearings on the front of My R33 GTS-T. Instead of opting to have a workshop just replace just the bearings with new items and be done with it, I stupidly I got my hands on a second hand (below) set hoping everything would be ok, It wasn't.

http://i47.tinypic.com/2s9qdja.jpg

I had them fitted + a wheel alligment and balancing at suspension place.

The guy did a good job and its all in there right and the allignment is great like but the second hand hubs are just as bad if not worse than my old ones! So I just blew almost $400 and got nowhere.

Here is a recording of what it sounds like in the cabin with the new hubs.

http://www.wikiupload.com/0MSF6B8SBCR0Z43

http://yourlisten.com/channel/content/16971467/drugf

I have to get this problem fixed as its tugging my wheel left and right, casing vibrations,making noise and I just dont feel happy/safe driving the car.

I am fairly certain its the bearings gone.

What is the easiest way to fit brand new quality bearings on my car?. I will be doing it with a friend. Hes changed bearings before on a few times on standard cars, Starlet bluebird etc,

My original hubs had no ABS sensor holes, but the new ones I replaced them with do. Any difference between the two, for example worth keeping one over the other? I realize I have to plug the hole if I keep the ABS ones.

The second hand hub and conrol arm set make the steering wheel little heavier to turn I notice. I was planning on fitting new bearings to my old set and fitting them back in.

Is this what I am after and god dangid is there any way to get 2 cheaper, and dangit are they easy to fit?

$(KGrHqJ,!owFCqG6O5YsBQwj2f(ILg~~60_3.JP

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SKYLINE-FRONT-WHEEL-BEARING-SET-R32-R33-R34-4WD-MODEL-OEM-NISSAN-/251213901018?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a7d83ecda&_uhb=1#ht_953wt_1166

Heres the original problem with the car, in addition to wobbles, But the original hubs had absolutely no noise whilst driving,

CeHuz.jpg Powered by VideoBam - Free Video Hosting

Edited by sonicz
  • Like 1
D.I.Y. Mik Veteran

D.I.Y. Mik

Posted
Posted

Wheel bearings i assume your talking about...

Do a bit of research and make sure you are getting the right bearings, you know s1, s2 etc

Your old bearings have a number on them, thats the easiest way.

Ummm.......

So the old hubs are off....

Take them and the new bearings to a workshop to press the old ones out and the new ones in, or it may be the race they have to take off the axle, whatever.

Then re assemble and go get a wheel alignment.

Your halfway there already.

The other thing is you could take it somewhere thats good, and have them find the problem/s.

I found im no good at guessing these things and took it to a good suspension place, thats why i know whats wrong with mine.

sonicz Rising Star

sonicz

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Yup front wheel bearings.

As long as we are talking GTS (2WD models) There is no difference between R32 R33 and R34 front wheel bearings, let alone S1 S2 afaik.

The old hubs are off including the control arm and the "new" second hand set went in. I had a creak creak noise when reverse and tapped the brakes which you can hear in the video (its not a virus can upload to youtube if need to) which is now gone with the second hand hubs.

BUT

The second hand hubs have a bearing problem which you can hear in the sound clip, wub wub wub etc.

I am probably going to keep the second hand hubs and control arms just replace the bearings in them.

The only other issue I have is heavier steering and and under steer with the new parts in place. Not sure if that's because I told the mechanic to tighten the nuts up real hard.

Edited by sonicz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...