Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB20 wastegate actuator $75 - Holds more boost than the standard R33 actuator but still within what the standard ECU can handle, roughly 10-11 PSI depending on your intake/exhaust setup. Fits stock turbos (including OP6 rear housing) and Highflows.

oxu1JdO.jpg

Engine mounts (pair) $120 - Fits non-hicas R33. I bought the wrong ones, these are brand new. They also fit S13/S14 180/200SX according to the packet. not sure if thats on the standard motor or with an RB25. Inspections welcomed

7uUvoso.jpg

JJR silicone intake $20 - used as an interim part. Trimmed for stock airbox. Useful to get you out of trouble or for stock applications, I wouldn't use it if you're running any more than about 12-14psi though.

QvKD2RF.jpg

Series 2 AFM and Plug $75. Can be wired in as an upgrade to the S1 AFM. If you have a Series 1 I can install it for you its simple enough. Selling as I'm running Z32 with nistune.

3P49PPD.jpg

"DRIFT" brand adjustable Blow off Valve, adapter bracket and genuine nissan gasket. $50, Came off my R33. Please note this is not a road legal blow off valve as it vents to atmosphere.

Gnq8tyB.jpg

Standard S1 ecu. Not sure what these are worth? Asking $80

mzzQVao.jpg

Single DIN tray with door. Not sure if this is a standard nissan part or whatever. $20

JnSJYCe.jpg

ALL PRICES ARE NEGOTIABLE. PM for my phone number, Will reply within the hour

Edited by Blackkers

I've also got a clutch fan for an RB25. Just the fanblades no clutch assembly. 2 cracks along the center but its suitable for anyone who isn't drifting i guess. $20

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...