Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I used to build stupid cars (260z 2+2 with a rb26dett) (1600 with a 400kw sr20det). Everyone who knows the pain of building a car yourself, the money, sleepless nights, lack of life in general but its all worth it when you turn the key. But you know life rolls around and money issues are...well life? So the cars went and were replaced with a Magna (don't cringe) it was actually a nice car, and would pull away from most cars on the road. Two years down the track my urges took hold of me when I saw a 1999 Er34GtT.

My big issue is my left foot, followed by my right. I picked the car up after compliance and out of the driveway gutter to gutter down three lanes(onprivateproperty) aka parramatta road.

Fitted a 3" turbo back exhaust within a week of picking her up, Pod filter (still needs a cover) and grabbed a set of 19" 8.5 and 9.5 Nismo rims.

Have a set of DBA slotted rears to go on, but still deciding on the fronts, RDA slotted and dimpled have mixed reviews and DBA slotted and drilled have failed on me more than once. Shes going on the dyno this coming week sometime when DVS tuning has a moment spare.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/442983-rb25er-r34gttblessyou/
Share on other sites

Just get dba slotted, remeber to completely flush the fluid and use something decent, motul rbf as a suggestion.

Ditch the pod, no cover needed then

The intake is getting all hard piping so it will change anyway

So it has a tuneable ecu??

If not save the $80 power run

I just want a baseline run to compare once I'm finished
  • 1 month later...

Little update, electrical issues are starting to drive me crazy. When I lock my car the doors dont lock only the immob and alarm turn on, tcs light dims when indicating and other fun things eventually the battery died so I replaced it with a slightly larger one. This fixed all my dramas...no of cause not two days later it started like the battery was drained and the doors stopped locking again. The only aftermarket electrical items are a headunit to oem wiring, boost guage which is on acc, and a ice install in the boot which has been completely disconnected. And a mongoose alarm which was installed by a "professional". So ill have to borrow a dc clamp meter to find what is driving me crazy.

after some spirited driving I glazed the pads quite severely, the next day on the way to work I had to do an e stop because the nice lady in front slammed her brakes on and I just couldn't pull up, hit her doing less than 20ks but all the damage was done to my car, front bar and support bent, headlight brackets smashed and a kink in the bonnet.

Little update, electrical issues are starting to drive me crazy. When I lock my car the doors dont lock only the immob and alarm turn on, tcs light dims when indicating and other fun things eventually the battery died so I replaced it with a slightly larger one. This fixed all my dramas...no of cause not two days later it started like the battery was drained and the doors stopped locking again. The only aftermarket electrical items are a headunit to oem wiring, boost guage which is on acc, and a ice install in the boot which has been completely disconnected. And a mongoose alarm which was installed by a "professional". So ill have to borrow a dc clamp meter to find what is driving me crazy.

after some spirited driving I glazed the pads quite severely, the next day on the way to work I had to do an e stop because the nice lady in front slammed her brakes on and I just couldn't pull up, hit her doing less than 20ks but all the damage was done to my car, front bar and support bent, headlight brackets smashed and a kink in the bonnet.

Little update, electrical issues are starting to drive me crazy. When I lock my car the doors dont lock only the immob and alarm turn on, tcs light dims when indicating and other fun things eventually the battery died so I replaced it with a slightly larger one. This fixed all my dramas...no of cause not two days later it started like the battery was drained and the doors stopped locking again. The only aftermarket electrical items are a headunit to oem wiring, boost guage which is on acc, and a ice install in the boot which has been completely disconnected. And a mongoose alarm which was installed by a "professional". So ill have to borrow a dc clamp meter to find what is driving me crazy.

after some spirited driving I glazed the pads quite severely, the next day on the way to work I had to do an e stop because the nice lady in front slammed her brakes on and I just couldn't pull up, hit her doing less than 20ks but all the damage was done to my car, front bar and support bent, headlight brackets smashed and a kink in the bonnet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Echo the awesome sentiment 👍 Definitely a car worth saving. Looking forward to seeing updates as well. 
    • Scenic roads, stunning skylines, and Chickos to finish it off! Join SAU NSW as we cruise through the Royal National Park and along Lawrence Hargrave Drive to Figtree! Sunday 26th October 2025 4:30PM Meeting Waterfall Station Parking 5:00PM Cruise Departure Royal National Park > Lawrence Hargrave Dr > Memorial Dr > Sid Parrish Park 6:15PM Arrival at Sid Parrish Park Figtree Meet Location: Waterfall Station Parking Final Destination: Sid Parrish Park RSVP: https://forms.gle/E4s5SiRKQfDdypky8 *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • It's funny, as Ive seen plenty of people use them in cheap builds on YT. And they actually go okay, even though a lot of other maxspeedingrods stuff is terrible. Those turbos seem reliable enough, the only part being, a good quality turbo that is "identical" to it, will out perform it day in and day out. In both a lower boost threshold, and the ability to flow more air at the same boost pressure. As a cheap cheap replacement, not a terrible choice. For cheap and shouldn't blow in a day, not terrible (like other eBay/Temu turbos) for low cost and still decent performance, that's where the question comes in to play from the results I've seen. I'd actually find it hilarious to buy one, and strap it to a paddock basher or some other cheap as POS originally NA car, and send it to the moon!
    • The maxpeedingrods turbo is cheap and bolts on to stock parts. I think you just need a bigger silicone coupler for the intake. Its a cheap china turbo, but it's been running on mine for almost 3 years at 16-19 psi.
    • What do they look like right after you've tried to start it with everything connected? Also post photos of what they actually look like.
×
×
  • Create New...