Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I used to build stupid cars (260z 2+2 with a rb26dett) (1600 with a 400kw sr20det). Everyone who knows the pain of building a car yourself, the money, sleepless nights, lack of life in general but its all worth it when you turn the key. But you know life rolls around and money issues are...well life? So the cars went and were replaced with a Magna (don't cringe) it was actually a nice car, and would pull away from most cars on the road. Two years down the track my urges took hold of me when I saw a 1999 Er34GtT.

My big issue is my left foot, followed by my right. I picked the car up after compliance and out of the driveway gutter to gutter down three lanes(onprivateproperty) aka parramatta road.

Fitted a 3" turbo back exhaust within a week of picking her up, Pod filter (still needs a cover) and grabbed a set of 19" 8.5 and 9.5 Nismo rims.

Have a set of DBA slotted rears to go on, but still deciding on the fronts, RDA slotted and dimpled have mixed reviews and DBA slotted and drilled have failed on me more than once. Shes going on the dyno this coming week sometime when DVS tuning has a moment spare.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/442983-rb25er-r34gttblessyou/
Share on other sites

Just get dba slotted, remeber to completely flush the fluid and use something decent, motul rbf as a suggestion.

Ditch the pod, no cover needed then

The intake is getting all hard piping so it will change anyway

So it has a tuneable ecu??

If not save the $80 power run

I just want a baseline run to compare once I'm finished
  • 1 month later...

Little update, electrical issues are starting to drive me crazy. When I lock my car the doors dont lock only the immob and alarm turn on, tcs light dims when indicating and other fun things eventually the battery died so I replaced it with a slightly larger one. This fixed all my dramas...no of cause not two days later it started like the battery was drained and the doors stopped locking again. The only aftermarket electrical items are a headunit to oem wiring, boost guage which is on acc, and a ice install in the boot which has been completely disconnected. And a mongoose alarm which was installed by a "professional". So ill have to borrow a dc clamp meter to find what is driving me crazy.

after some spirited driving I glazed the pads quite severely, the next day on the way to work I had to do an e stop because the nice lady in front slammed her brakes on and I just couldn't pull up, hit her doing less than 20ks but all the damage was done to my car, front bar and support bent, headlight brackets smashed and a kink in the bonnet.

Little update, electrical issues are starting to drive me crazy. When I lock my car the doors dont lock only the immob and alarm turn on, tcs light dims when indicating and other fun things eventually the battery died so I replaced it with a slightly larger one. This fixed all my dramas...no of cause not two days later it started like the battery was drained and the doors stopped locking again. The only aftermarket electrical items are a headunit to oem wiring, boost guage which is on acc, and a ice install in the boot which has been completely disconnected. And a mongoose alarm which was installed by a "professional". So ill have to borrow a dc clamp meter to find what is driving me crazy.

after some spirited driving I glazed the pads quite severely, the next day on the way to work I had to do an e stop because the nice lady in front slammed her brakes on and I just couldn't pull up, hit her doing less than 20ks but all the damage was done to my car, front bar and support bent, headlight brackets smashed and a kink in the bonnet.

Little update, electrical issues are starting to drive me crazy. When I lock my car the doors dont lock only the immob and alarm turn on, tcs light dims when indicating and other fun things eventually the battery died so I replaced it with a slightly larger one. This fixed all my dramas...no of cause not two days later it started like the battery was drained and the doors stopped locking again. The only aftermarket electrical items are a headunit to oem wiring, boost guage which is on acc, and a ice install in the boot which has been completely disconnected. And a mongoose alarm which was installed by a "professional". So ill have to borrow a dc clamp meter to find what is driving me crazy.

after some spirited driving I glazed the pads quite severely, the next day on the way to work I had to do an e stop because the nice lady in front slammed her brakes on and I just couldn't pull up, hit her doing less than 20ks but all the damage was done to my car, front bar and support bent, headlight brackets smashed and a kink in the bonnet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...