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P1010045.jpg

1992 Nissan NX-R Coupe

Registration: November 2004

NEW PRICE $13990 NEGOTIABLE

URGENT SALE

The Ultimate Sleeper.

~200+ FWKW in a very light car.

Modifications

Red Top SR20DET

T28 Turbo

Quad Throttle Body

Higher Compression

Hybrid Front Mount (600x300x76)

Turbo XS Blow-off Valve

K&N Pod Filter

3" Full Exhaust

Suspension

Koni Adjustable Suspension

Whiteline Front Strut Brace

Whiteline Rear Strut Brace

Whiteline Sway Bars

Whiteline Engine Mounts

Tyres

Stock Pulsar N16 Rims

Brand New Falkern Ziex Tyres

Accessories

Blitz Turbo Timer

Autometer Boost Guage

Turbosmart Dualstage Boost Controller

Kenwood Headunit

Kenwood Speakers Front and Rear

JBL 4 Channel Amplifier

Notes

Brand New Gear Box

Brand New Brass Button Clutch with Custom Sprung Pressure Plate

Fresh Paint Job (2.5 years old)

180.2KW @ 12psi

This is a regretful sale due to loss of license. This car has been well looked after and maintained. The 180kw dyno was done on a tiny intercooler at 12psi. Last week, I installed a monster intercooler and boosts to 16psi effortlessly.

If you are interested, call 'Fag' anytime on 0415 582442.

Serious buyers only.

More pictures at http://photobucket.com/albums/v95/bennney/...y/Carz/FagzNXR/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48555-fs-sleeper-nx-200rwkw/
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  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
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    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
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