D.I.Y Compliance Pt2!

[DAN00H]

I have spoked to a few people about this, so decided I would maked a post of it (saves me retyping!!).

Any q's let me know.

1st is a link to my old post (Note, a restrictor is not required in the fuel neck - only a sticker indicating 'unleaded fuel only')

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...15yr+old+import

I had posted a detailed 'how to' thread - but can't find it, so here goes.

remove the inside mirror covers, backing plate around the door handle/opener (you need to pull the lever while turning the backing plate to get it out), power window switch (you need to get a screw driver underneath it and prise it out & disconnect the wires), there should be a screw in the hole for removal & the plastic part that sits in the arm rest.

remove the phillips screws in the bottom of the door (x4?), from memory, you should then be able to pull the door skin out from the bottom (it's held in with lugs as well), then lift it vertically out of the top of the door - place it somewhere safe so that it does not get damaged.

Remove any items that are holding the plastic lining, then begin to carefull remove the plastic (it is stuck in place). Once you have done this, label all the wires proir to removing them (it may even pay to do a sketch to remind you where each terminal connects to the door) and remove the wires from the door. Remove the speaker.

Removing the window glass - (NB, you may need to reconnect the window switch to get the right position) you will find two mounts at the base of the glass, losen these mounts (DON'T FULLY REMOVE YET!) at the top of the door you will find two rubber stoppers MARK THEIR POSITION, then remove, in the middle you will find a felt block - this has to be removed prior to the window - it can take a bit to get it out, so be careful. Once you have done this, you can then remove the window (place somewhere safe!!).

Remove the window mechanism - two bolts at the top, two at the bottom (I think I took it out through the top) - your door should now be empty.

Starting at the bottom, remove the nuts on the door hinge, then the top (make sure you/an assistant are holding the door!), place on a firm padded surface.

Take the intrusion bar from ISASO (details in 1st post) and insert the end with the bolts towards the lock (fits behind the lock), take the second section and insert into the other end of the door - line up the two sections. Once you have them in (they only go in one way) VERY CAREFULLY CHECK WHERE TO DRILL - remember, measure twice, cut once.

I installed the section behind the lock first - be VERY CAREFUL DRILLING THE HOLES, remove the door rubber and place a thick piece of metal on the inside of your door (this eliminates the chance of you drilling a ventilation hole on the outside of your door !!) then insert the bolts. if you have done it properly, the front and rear sections will line up!

For the front section you will need 2 - 3 pop rivets (H/D), I actually drilled from the inside out, making sure the two pieces were sitting together!

Once you have installed the rivets, you can then weld the two sections together (if you are not a good welder, place something on the inside of your door so it does not damage the paintwork on the outside). I used an a stick (arc) welder.

make sure the weld is strong, then apply some paint / tar to stop any chance of rust.

reinstall the door (is it the reversal of removal - best to have a second set of hands helping! I didn't, but I managed).

run your wires through first, no real tricks to putting it back in - just use care - it can take some manipulation of the parts to get them back in!

before you reinstall the door trim, ensure (a) the door shuts well, (B) the window closes properly (you may need to adjust the rubber stoppers at the top of the door) & © it looks good and you are happy with it.

I left one of my trims off so that the engineer was able to inspect my work

If you have a problem at any stage call me on 0413 377 742 or e-mail [email protected] and I will assist

then sit back and say, well done - good job!

[Pablo]

Excellent posting!

So i gather the isaso intrusion bar - one end is simply bolted in place and the other is welded?

Also, what sort of engineer do you need to consult? A mechanical engineer... or do they require a special qualification?

Cheers

[SteveL]

(Note, a restrictor is not required in the fuel neck - only a sticker indicating 'unleaded fuel only')

Your in ACT, but in Vic the fuel restrictor is still required - that's straight from my compliancer AND confirmed directly with a Vicroads engineer today.

[Parag0n]

Excellent guide, Fuel filler restrictor is required for QLD as well.

[foznice]

because this is the diy for the 15yr import rule... are you refering to taking the doors of an r32??

[Parag0n]

because this is the diy for the 15yr import rule... are you refering to taking the doors of an r32??

You need to when you want to put Side Intrusion bars in.

[foznice]

sorry my bad. what i was saying if this is the fifteen yr rule, then you must therefore be talking about an r32??

[bobstyle]

in Qld seat belt have to be changed if they do not have an australian standards mark or a european standards mark. i have never seena jap import (jap manurfactured) car with a set yet.

[ocean]

Top information mate, do you know if this applies in Victoria too?

I have a GT-R coming soon and have to do some other body work anyway (front bar, headlight..), so i might do this compliance work too.

Thanks,

-Patrick