Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well that sucked dogs balls !! And I'm not talking about a cute little puppy either, I'm talking about a big fat hairy dogs balls !!

The new pump is in. Took me about 2 1/2 hours but it's in. It would have been so much easier if I had a GTR pump cause the Walbro that I used is much smaller in size.

Basically the pump is clamped into a plastic frame, and that plastic frame is slotted and clipped into another plastic mount that is inside the fuel tank. But if your using a smaller pump the pump just slops around in the frame and the frame won't stay together for you to mount it back in the car... Very frustrating....

Plus, the way that the frame slides and clips into position makes it hard to figure out where to position the cable ties to hold it there :P

But, after all that it's in and working well.

I ended up not using the top half of the plastic frame cause I just couldn't get the damn thing to sit in place for me to clip it back into the mount. It doesn't effect anything, and the little plastic surge tank thing (where the fuel pick up is) is still in place and working fine.

I thought it would be loud cause there isn't any rubber sleave around it, and one part of the pump is hard up against the hard plastic frame, but I can't hear it all all once it's primed up and running.

The sock sits at the same height/position to the factory setup so that's good. The one thing I forgot to put back in was the plastic clamp that holds the fuel pump power wires and the two hoses together :( And it looks like the fuel level sender is catching a little on the hoses or wires cause I filled it right up after I did the swap and the needle stopped at about 7/8 full.. :( Sooo next weekend I'll take the cap off and clamp the hoses and wires toghether.

If anyone is doing a swap I'll be able to give some pointers to help out, but I'm not sure if I want to do another one !!

J

hey guys i was wondering whether i could run a gtr pump for the intank one and then setup a bosch motorsport 044 external pump (i got it from old VL setup)????

is the r32 and r33 gtr fuel pumps the same????

what sort of power will the gtr pumps run out of flow ? (setup with the 044 one)

any tips on setting it up?

any info appreciated

:P

Brad

G'day Brad,

Apparently the GTR pumps are a much easier fit, just need a very slight trimming of the plastic and it slots straight in.

I think the GTR pump will handle about 240rwkw, maybe a touch less with the AWD setup of the Stagea. With using a 044 in a external setup you should for heaps more.

J

All Nismo RB26DETT pumps are rated at 4.6L/min at 3 Bar. I believe that this is 125% of the OEM output (ie the original pumps are rated at 3.68L/min at the same pressure). Bearing in mind that I can't read Japanese....

Part numbers for the Nismo pumps are as follows:

BNR32 17042-RR581

BNCR33 17042-RR596

BNR34 17042-RRR46

WC34 17042-RR581

FYI the Nismo pumps for the RB25DET (inc. NEO) are rated at 4.1L/min at 3 bar (175% of OEM).

Just in case the Stagea guys missed it, here is a post that I made elsewhere a couple of days ago on fuel pumps........

You need to be careful when selecting Walbro pumps. As you can see from the attached, the GSS341 is rated at 255 lph, that's at zero boost and at 13.5 volts. If you install one in tank with the standard Skyline wiring it will run at 12 volts, that's 215 lph. Then add some boost, say 20 psi (1.35 bar) and they are down to 180 lph.

flowtest-walbro.gif

Bosh pumps on the other hand are rated at 73.5 psi, that's a rail pressure of say 40 psi plus 33.5 psi (2.3 bar) boost. That is why, generally speaking, Bosch pumps are physically larger, they need to be to provide the pumping torque at their high rated pressures. If you are looking at running high'ish boost or upping the rail pressure, then this feature is more likely to appeal.

boschpump.jpg

The same guys that tested the Walbro pumps also tested a number of Nissan pumps. If you take a look at the following graph you can see that a standard R33 GTR fuel pump out flows the Walbro GSS341 at 13.5 volts and 30 psi by about 10%. The standard Z32 fuel pump is 5% better than the GSS341 (the standard R32 GTR fuel pump is basically the same as the Z32).

flowtest-nissan.gif

Hope that is of some use.:(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...