Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone,

just wondering if there is anyone at the moment, waiting or just gone through having a test vehicle looked at by DOTARS? Be it you're an owner of a workshop, or had your car used as a test vehicle...

My car has been at this workshop in Sydney since August 10th, and there is still no date for when DOTARS are going to come out and look at the car :rant: - It's getting to the stage of being rediculous now and was wondering if anyone has been through the process recently, or is currently in the process of and knows what the hell is going on.

Anyone got contacts at DOTARS to check up on some stuff for me?

cheers,

daniel.

It isnt to bad these days, first test car was in the work shop for just over 12 months, these days inspections are 6 to 8 weeks after paperwork sent to DOTR's.

Dont ring DOTR's as it is nothing to do with them, it is up to the workshop to have solid evidence and know what they are doing.

Is it the workshops first car and I assume you got a good discount on compliance.

this is bullshit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! now i'm being told the car MIGHT be looked at 7-11th March!!!! F*CKING MARCH!!!! All the evidence and paperwork was submitted before Christmas!!! Who ever is handing out this shit information or 4-6 weeks really must be having a laugh, cos that couldn't be further from the truth.

There has been ONE delay with some paperwork.... you can't tell me that blows it out to 2nd week of March!!! Car has been in the workshop since August 10th! :D

soooooooooooooooooooooo f*cking pissed off right now.

well f u c k, i was told 3 months by the compliance place..... 3 months wait and save yourself $5500, i thought it was a good deal....

oh well, just gives you more time to get the spoiler and front/rear bumpers ready for me :D - as said in PM, happy to pay up front for the spoiler now if ya want.... :(

well  f u c k,  i was told 3 months by the compliance place..... 3 months wait and save yourself $5500, i thought it was a good deal....

oh well, just gives you more time to get the spoiler and front/rear bumpers ready for me :D - as said in PM, happy to pay up front for the spoiler now if ya want.... :)

Saving $5,500 would make the wait worth while if you have another car to get around in, $5,500 is a fair bit of money.

Saving $5,500 would make the wait worth while if you have another car to get around in, $5,500 is a fair bit of money.

same car is now 2000-2500 cheaper now anyway and compliance is now only 3500 ..so given the fcuk around its a dud deal in my opinion

well, R34 prices actually have gone up since i bought mine (well at auction anyway) and i think the cheapest 34 compliance is $4200, but most are $5500.

Mine will be about $26K on the road. But 34 prices still seem to be higher than when i was buying. so i at least bought at a good time... but it seems the March date is pretty concrete and to be complete honest i'm on my P's till the end of April and it's over the power/weight ratio, so maybe it's meant to be that i don't have it till i'm practically off my p's...

a semi-positive spin...

well, R34 prices actually have gone up since i bought mine (well at auction anyway) and i think the cheapest 34 compliance is $4200, but most are $5500.

i beg to differ...r34 prices are going down at auction...duty rate has changed ...and i just had 1 complied @3500 :D

You can get them done for $3500+ tyres + brake pads if needed in Sydney as well .

R34 prices are about the same now as they were 6 months ago going on the auction stats that i have but import duty is only 10% now .

i beg to differ...r34 prices are going down at auction...duty rate has changed ...and i just had 1 complied @3500  :P

Tell me who complyied it for that price and what it cost including Tyres, Brakes and so on as I know some dealers who will take it at that price.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...