Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all...

Have the following for sale..PM or reply to this Thread if interested...

Here we go:

- GREDDY T88-34D

Front Compressor side has been Polished up, No surface rust on the exhaust Housing like used turbo's get over time. TRAVELLED 1000KM in Japan. Was told it made 834.8hp@Wheels on a gtr...

PRICE : SOLD

- ARIAS PISTONS + RING KIT (BRAND NEW)

Suit rb26, Suit bore size of 86.5mm. Pistons are 20thou over. These are brand new and i can provide detailed spec's on the pistons if Someone wants them.

PAID : $1550

PRICE : $1350

- GREDDY PLENUM (RB26) (BRAND NEW)

Never been put on a car...Very clean condition...

PRICE : $1250 DROPPED TO $1000

- AUTO STAFF UP PIPES

Came off a GTR R33. Twin 2.5'' pipes into a 3'' Pipe before the cat...

PRICE : $300

- HKS PRIEST EXHAUST (DIFF BACK)

Limited Edition exhaust came off a GTR R32. Size is around 3 3/4...Is a relatively Quite Exhaust....

PRICE : $350

- STANDARD GTR PISTONS

Excellent condition No Damage

PRICE : $ 250

- STANDARD GTR OIL PUMP

PRICE : SOLD

- STANDARD GTR WATER PUMP

PRICE : SOLD

- STANDARD GTR TURBO KIT

Turbo's,Manifolds,Dumpipes,1 O2 sensor..Travelled 30,000km's NO SHAFT PLAY

- STANDARD PLENUM + Throttle Bodies (6)

Plenum has been Stripped back to alloy look (Like R34 GTR's

PRICE : $ OFFERS

LET ME KNOW

CHEERS

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67762-gtr-performance-gear/
Share on other sites

HAHA....im here!!! Just got back from training For REAL....

I ate oranges JOKES!!!!

Hey chris, Im going to come round tomorrow if your nbot home please leave the parts!! thanx

BUMP

Am interested in turbo, what revs does it come on boost at?

I havent used the T88-34D turbo on any of my GTR's...

But judging from my experience with the T88-33D...That turbo came on about 5700-5800rpm...Other parts such as cams, Intercooler, ECU, Tuning etc...Plays a part with spooling it up...

Let me know

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dear folks My family members have 4 different cars : Triton 2015 and Corolla 2011 and Mazda3 2012 and Hyundai Elantra 2014 Looking to buy engine oil funnel spill free What I found are are below  https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BBTTJNKX?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image&th=1 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/145553221359?srsltid=AfmBOoqYBU6Ptw0LU_bAp_k67U3qkF97HHvePkA7iHZw8vUmiwoIRaRr https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09X23TCS5?th=1 Is there a funnel with attachment that fits most cars ? Don't mind to spend for a decent quality  Thx  
    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
×
×
  • Create New...