Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my 4 door seems to running very low boost the standard read out never gets close to +7 which is either 7 psi or .7 bar(12psi?) I plumbed in a blitz guage and its reading .4 bar max is this right for a stock auto 32 it seems to pull fairly hard for such low boost I ran a r33 man and only lost by half a length or so then ran my mate in his man ceffy and beat him due to wheel spin he says. So should it be running more boost?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68189-auto-r32-4door-low-boost-under-5-bar/
Share on other sites

stock gause is in Hgmm... it is neither psi or BAR.

as a general guide, the +7 is about 1 bar.

stock RB20det in good condition runs a standard of 10psi boost.

1 bar = 14.7 psi

therefore 10 psi = about 0.68bar

so in an auto, and on a possibly 15 year old car, and 15 year old turbo with 15 year old wastegate spring, getting 0.5 bar (which is 7.35psi) boost is not so bad.

you haven't said what mods you have so I am assuming stock.

if you get a better air filter, and a full exhaust, this will bump up the boost to about 10psi I guess.

OR.... Maybe the Auto's run less boost.. Not sure..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
×
×
  • Create New...