Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone,

I was just wondering if anyone here has ever imported themself, what hassles are involved, and whether or not its actually worth it in then end.

I am thinking about upgrading to a R34 GT-T or maybe GT-V (think thats the 4dr turbo), but cant seem to find many later model 4drs around for sale. Most are 98 model autos.

The costs i am aware of are (please correct if i am wrong):

prices all approx

Freight - $1200

Duty tax - 10%

Customs - $500

GST - 10%

Compliance - $3500

Stamp Duty - 2%

Tyres - Depends

Another consideration is paying a broker to sort out the paperwork (about $1000).

Any info of this topic is appreciated thanx.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75261-importing-yourself/
Share on other sites

Hello everyone,

I was just wondering if anyone here has ever imported themself, what hassles are involved, and whether or not its actually worth it in then end.

I am thinking about upgrading to a R34 GT-T or maybe GT-V (think thats the 4dr turbo), but cant seem to find many later model 4drs around for sale. Most are 98 model autos.

The costs i am aware of are (please correct if i am wrong):

prices all approx

Freight -  $1200

Duty tax - 10%

Customs - $500

GST - 10%

Compliance - $3500

Stamp Duty - 2%

Tyres - Depends

Another consideration is paying a broker to sort out the paperwork (about $1000).

Any info of this topic is appreciated thanx.

I did this a few months ago

Purchase price + about 80,000-100,000 jpy to de-rego , store and transport the car to the docks in japan .

+10% import duty on all the above

+ about 1800 -2000 aud for freight , customs and q/t .

+ 10% gst on all the above .

+ LCT ( in your case you won't have to pay it )

Thats your landed price .

Allow $4000 minimum for compliance and import approval ( for r34 ) + brakes if needed + removal of any mods .

Then all you have to pay is rego costs ( rego , ctp , number plates and stamp duty )

Stamp duty in nsw is 3% for the first $46 k and 5% for anything above that

You will pay stamp duty on any car you buy , new or used , local or import so thats not an extra expense .

If you need more info p.m if you like , i can put you in touch with a person in Japan , he will find a car for you bid at auction and do all the work to export it , there is no need to pay an agent in Aus $1000 .

  • 4 weeks later...

Yeah man, i reakon it is worth it, my new toy lands tomorrow, have had no hassles whatsoever with customs or anything like that...cheaper than getting the equivalent over here! but i did get in under the 15 year rule so compliance for me is cheaper...still, should be worthwile for you too!

mine left on the 28th may, gets here tomorrow, nice and fast, only thing i found expensive was the cost of containers at the moment as I diddn't want to stick it on RORO, but yeah, other than that very happy with the results so far...

I went over to japan and found the car myself then got my exporter client over there to stick it in a container for me, sent a customs broker the paperwork over here and voila! it gets here tomorrow, no hassles :rofl: oh, and as far as i have been told by the broker, as long as you can stick it in a buisness name, it is easy to get a broker here and you get a discount on the fees or something over doing it in your name...

only other costly part i can think of is the compliance when it gets here and if you wanted an agent in japan to find the car you want, but by the look of it, that topic has been covered by wrxhoon above...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...