Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

* DUE TO CONFLICTING OPINIONS, THIS MAY OR MAY NOT WORK. IT HAS FOR SOME, HASN'T FOR OTHERS*

This came up a while ago and I have had the same problem since I imported the car 6 months ago.

Basically when cold the car won't idle up on its own, you need to stab the throttle then its fine. When its warm its not a problem.

I went through the whole lot, cleaned throttle body, AAC, air regulator, Plugs, packs the works.

Today I bought a new battery as my old one was shagged, the new one is a Bosch Silver series, pretty bloody big, just fits on the battery tray and had to make up new terminals and such. Cost $99 on special so not a cheap one.

Result? Car fired up straight away and idled up perfectly! No throttle needed and it turned over in half the time it normally takes. I have'nt driven it for a week either so this was certainly the test.

It seems the ECU needs max volts to operate the cold start properly. The previous battery in there was about half the size of the new one, its a brute!

Definately worth the 100 bucks as I think many cars, especially with most of us running fairly serious stereo gear can benefit from the biggest battery we can fit in the space available.

Good luck!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80731-cold-start-problem-r3233-owners-read/
Share on other sites

Are you positively annoyed friend? dude mate, sounds like u got the fix to my problem.

I will be grabbing a battery on Monday and trying this.

As my battery neally dead too, and need to keep the stereo going like u say.

i will let ya know teh outcome !

See ya mate.

Hey my car has the same issue, never thought of it as a problem though, just a little quirk.

Maybe ill get a bigger battery next time.

Thanks for going to the effort of doing the research.

I've got the same problem.

I suspect its my injectors. I've replaced battery's etc.. no difference, does spin over quicker though.

Mine doesn't always do it but most of the time it does. Within the pfc controller if I richen up the water temp compensation for cold start the idle stumble goes away.

So mine appears to be fuel related.

You think wrong. hehe :rofl:

On the stock ecu, mine stumbled and spluttered exactly the same. Exactly.

The only way I have been able to get rid of it is to richen up the water temp fuel compensation tables once I got the PFC.

I've heard other R32's with stock ecu's stumble splutter, I've also heard other PFC equiped R32's stumble splutter then a stab of the accelerator brings her to live.

It appears to be something other than the ecu, battery etc. I think it is fuel related. Remember mine didn't 'always' do it but 90% of the time. Once it even went a few months starting perfectly then it went back to its usual splutter.

Maybe its an earth issue, playing with the battery has temporarily fixed it. :P

I'll update as I go but it started perfectly this morning :rofl:

Someone else a while ago suggested it as well as a new battery fixed his.....

Maybe the stock battery terminals are stuffed? I changed mine to huge gold plated ones.

Either way, its worked for me so far so if its goes back to its old ways i'll be back ,:P

i have the exact same problem on mine.

battery died last week so i replaced the battery, but didnt do anything

i havent bothered to look into it further, its been like this since i got the car 2 years ago.

i wish i could fix it though coz my remote ignition is useless

hmmm bizzare.

All I know is it works for me so I'm stoked :D

Maybe Nissan will hold the answers?

Did you replace it with a bigger battery? Maybe the batterys are undersized in them?

Who knows, did'nt hurt though cause my battery needed replacing badly. WOuldn't hold charge for more then a day.

Well i went out on my day off and shopped for batteries, but ended up at super cheap wiht a Bosch Gold Series one, cos me 89, ten Bucks off.

Thing is tho it was taller, lil, well the Terminals are form the top, not sunken in like the stock batt. The Wires with teh battery terms. were too short. arrrgg

so i used some big arse amp white and attached to the old bat climps and then attached new ones to the ends of amp wire, seems to go fine, haven't had teh moring test yet, that is tomorrow.

I got to find better way to joint that big arse wire so i 100% sure i getting percet connection.

If got any ideas on the joining let us know.

Anyway i let ya's know how all goes.

Later,

haha Thats bodgy as sh*t. :D

Head down to supercheap or where ever and grab a nice new big fat earth wire.

Thats one fixed.. Unsure what to do about the other one though. :D

I replaced it with a 480cc Excide thing with a nice little window to see the condition of the battery. It spins the car over rather quick.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
    • Ha ha ha, so they stopped the bearings spinning on the one you want, but then decided the crank hub should slip instead 😛   Stick to RB, at least you can work on it yourself. And now it doesn't smell of vapour   Also I still believe there's a chance your new flap doesn't "pop", as even though the engine might breath hard, it has a direct path with no restriction to the inlet, which when on boost should pull a bit of suction for you. If you do get pressure in the catch can id be very intrigued. Time to put a boost gauge on it, and a session at the track, then solid cover your vent and do another session
    • Oh nah, S55 doesn't eat bearings, just the crank hub slips lol.
    • When’s the tow ball on the 33 coming? 🙃
    • I welcome any basic question that can help haha. Yes it has 2 unis but the driveshaft is a one piece and the unis are welded without a slip yoke at each end.   What's funny is anytime I've ever had wheel vibrations it's always been in the front so I automatically assume it will lead to steering wheel shake and not chassis vibration. With that being said, I never considered looking at my rear wheel balance... I have doubts though as this wasn't an issue before I pulled the motor and trans but is still very much worth a look. I'll do that tonight after work. Thanks. 
×
×
  • Create New...