Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have just had a whiteline works kit installed on my car, and i was led to believe the centre of hub to guard measurements would be 345mm front, and around 350 rear, which is what i was aiming for (alignment reasons etc)

anyway, the car is much lower than anticipated with the heights at (rounded to within a couple of mm)

Front Left - 330mm

Rear Left - 330mm

Front Right - 320mm

Rear Right - 330mm

Now, i believe what has happened is that the workshop didn't realise that the spring seats were adjustable, and just left them at whatever they were originally set at.

The car is going back to the workshop tomorrow to get the spring seats adjusted up, i'm just wondering how far apart the grooves are spaced? would it be 10mm, or higher? (Just so i can give them an idea of how many grooves it needs to go up)

Thanks in advance for the help :huh:

Jason

my bilsteins have 3 levels for the clip to sit at.

At the medium setting it is about the same height as your car. (33mm front, 340mm rear)

I want to go to 350mm all round, and i hope bringing it up to the top notch should fix it. I think from memory they are like 10 to 15mm apart.

I believe they can be machined to put extra levels to adjust with?....

my bilsteins have 3 levels for the clip to sit at.

At the medium setting it is about the same height as your car. (33mm front, 340mm rear)

I want to go to 350mm all round, and i hope bringing it up to the top notch should fix it. I think from memory they are like 10 to 15mm apart.

I believe they can be machined to put extra levels to adjust with?....

I machine mine with 8mm betweeen the circlip grooves

1903Bilsteins_Small.jpg

:huh:

I machine mine with 8mm betweeen the circlip grooves  

So if i cant get the height i want (350mm front & back) i can just get some new circlip rings machined in to make the car sit there?

Do i need to change anything else like redo the valving or change springs to function with the new height (with either the top circlip setting or custom one @ 350mm)?

So if i cant get the height i want (350mm front & back) i can just get some new circlip rings machined in to make the car sit there?

 

Do i need to change anything else like redo the valving or change springs to function with the new height (with either the top circlip setting or custom one @ 350mm)?

You can have as many circlip grooves as you like, I did a set once with 15 grooves at 4 mm each. Shock valving is not affected by height

don't they have 3 on there already though? if so, any idea what their spacing is?

I have only seen Skylines Bilsteins with 2 gooves standard, some other cars have 3, but most only have 1.

:huh:

Mine are 10mm, but I have something like 5-6 grooved in.. I found that top one was 'stock' R32 shock height.. anything below that lowered it below that (obviously)

I basically figured "well I want to lower it about 2cm using the stock springs" and put it down two positions (20mm).. This gave me exact 350mm front and rear wheel to guard - stock R32 rims on my car with stock springs. That does seem work pretty well for me, with no uneven tyre wear spotted yet.

I assume if you are going different springs (kings, whitelines, etc), the springs are already going to be that 2-3 cm lower. Therefore to maintain that 350mm you would have to put it back up that 2cm - is this right??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...