Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recently crashed my 33 and was wondering what happens with insurance if its a write off....ok what i was wondering was whether or not i get first shot at buying it back from insurance if it is a write off...or does it have to go to auction where i will then get a chance to buy it back...any help will be appreciated....oh i am with justcars insurance.... :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86717-insurancebuy-back/
Share on other sites

I recently had my car written off, not my fault. They paid me out. Market value of my car was set at 10,300 by their insurance company. They got quotes on salvage price which was $1,300.

Their insurance paid me $9000.

Leaving me with the car and contact details of a wrecker which i had to ring and they took my car away, and paid me the remaining $1300. I think you legally own the car after they pay you out the amount less salvage, leaving you with choice of selling it to the wrecker they choose or you can keep your car.

Their insurance company was RACV. SO it may be different with just cars.

Cant be bothered reading back over that so i hope it makes sense.

Cheers,

Paradizzle.

I recently had my car written off, not my fault. They paid me out. Market value of my car was set at 10,300 by their insurance company. They got quotes on salvage price which was $1,300.

Their insurance paid me $9000.

Leaving me with the car and contact details of a wrecker which i had to ring and they took my car away, and paid me the remaining $1300. I think you legally own the car after they pay you out the amount less salvage, leaving you with choice of selling it to the wrecker they choose or you can keep your car.

Their insurance company was RACV. SO it may be different with just cars.

Cant be bothered reading back over that so i hope it makes sense.

Cheers,

Paradizzle.

Exactly what he said^^^^

If the damage is 80% or so of the value of the car, it is a write off. You can either take the whole amount of money and they keep the wreck, or they work out how much they think the wreck is worth and then you can keep the car and get the remainder of the money.

In the case of a skyline, you are probably better off keeping the wreck and selling bits off it. At least take all the aftermarket stuff off first. If you can be bothered and have the time.

If insurance companies write it off they usually have a fairly good reason why. Going off your signature its 1997 model? that would have dual airbags, these are expencive to replace, so look into that too - and the price of straightening chasis rail if theyre bent too. As others said its probably better to buy the wreck back and wreck it out.... and you'll end up ahead down the track. Just cars usually give you the choice of buying the wreck back before they sell it off at auction.

Dayne

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...