Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well ppls You don't want to buy a Genuine Nissan R32 GTS-T Radiator.

Sit down... $935.. OUCH.

Anyhow NATRAD Radiators can replace top tanks etc.

I discovered that my top radiator hose was a little loose.

I soon realised that the plastic where the hose slides over had collapsed.

Natrad radiators quoted:

$145 for the Radiator & Motor flush/Rod/pressure test & Thermostat inspection Test.

$95 for the Top tank that is aftermarket, the aftermarket is apparently better due to the plastic quality and thickness.

----

Autobarn also can get the Radiator hoses for these From GAtes.

Top hose is $19 and the Bottom hose is $30.

Thermostat. I bought one from Motor mates as the ones from the VL are the same. BUT.. it is a dodgy one as it doesn't close properly and the car in cooler weather doesn't heat up.

So I'm going to buy a Nissan One for $48. The VL one was $24.

Total Price is going to be $335.

AND.. my bleeder nipple has crossthreaded its self due to undoing it when the metal is really hot (soft).

And ppls don't use anything like gasket goo on the bleed nipple to stop any possible air leaks when troubleshooting.

That is probably what made it cross thread.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8707-bran-new-radiator/
Share on other sites

Joel i got a brand new radiator for my car as the top tank was stuffed, it cost me $320 inc GST, from the mob down the road who looked after me. It is the same as stock just has more cooling fins.

PWR ones are about $650 trade price for a 38mm core full alloy radiator.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8707-bran-new-radiator/#findComment-127861
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Silver... how much did the PWR radiator cost you all together? Is it possible for a raditor to brak due to big impacts... I went over a big median strip yesterday... just need to know cose of dealer warranty see if its not my fault...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8707-bran-new-radiator/#findComment-216827
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...