Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The misses & I have this car and a V8 Lexus. We do big k's and its damn expensive running two larger cars. So, as much as I love it, my car needs to be sold in favor of something smaller. I'm after either an outright sale or nogotiated swap for a much smaller 4cyl turbo car... if you have a gt starlet then I certainly want to talk to you :(

Car in Mackay, Qld.

$18,000 ONO

1995 R33 GTS25-t M-spec

79,000km

RB25det

5 speed manual

KL0 Silver

Drivers Airbag

Factory Electric Sunroof

Floor mats

M-spec side skirts

climate control, power everything, etc.

Few tasteful mods...

Carrozzeria (Pioneer) CD Player

Mongoose Turbo Timer compatible alarm, dual passive immobiliser, with keyless entry

Black Pearl tinted windows

Speco boost guage mounted on steering column

Hidden Turbo Timer (In ash try)

Full 3" exhaust with Twin Dump Pipe, Cat, muffler, and stainless steal cannon.

Hybrid copy FMIC kit with polished blue aluminium piping

Turbosmart Boost Controller

Pod filter

17" R34gtt rims with heaps of falken rubber

Stealth wing

I am the second Australian owner of this car. It was brought into the country almost 2 years ago through Prestige Motorsport. It was stock as a rock and was given a jap auction grade of 4.0. I can provide the original stock report to anyone who is genuinely interested. I service this car every 5000km, and have kept my own personal logs of everything I have done. I have owned it for a little over a year and never had a single mechanical issue. Interior and exterior are both in great nick, and it is mechanically A1. I have recently inspected the timing belt and it is still nice and tight with no hint of cracking. Also inspected the turbo... very smooth with no shaft play. Any mechanical inspection is welcome.

*Car is currently running stock boost, but the buyer will be given the turbosmart bleed valve that was on the car when I bought it.

*I still have the larger series II wing, so the buyer may choose between it and the stealth wing.

*I also have a brand new unfitted Apexi PowerFC with hand controller that I havn't hooked up / had tuned yet. As I'm not going to be needing it anymore, its inclusion can be nogotiated.

*I will also be including a consult interface cable and software that lets IBM compatible PCs talk to nissan ECUs. Theres plenty of diagnostic and monitoring features. Its great for electrical troublshooting so you don't have to go anywhere near a multimeter.

*Car has just been serviced & has a new battery (2yr warranty)

*Rego till 3/06.

My aim was to build a reliable 200rwkw car. I love the car, but practicality first.

I think that covers just about everything. Feel free to post any other questions here, pm, or give me a call. More pics if required also.

The car will go to the person who offers nearest 18k... or wants to swap a smaller turbo car. So if you know someone, tell em to call me!

Cheers!

Mick - 0407624756, [email protected]

Edited by Mickroy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88528-95-r33-skyline/
Share on other sites

its my daily driver, so its currently registered... all you need to transfer rego in qld is proof of registration & a safety cert. Where are you? ...roadworthy can be organised if neccessary.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88528-95-r33-skyline/#findComment-1598838
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...