Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just installed my PFC Boost Controller. Now i had to buy the AVCR Pressure sensor which i beleive is the same. Anyway, ive got 2 problems with it.

1) It reads less pressure than my boost guage and stock guage. Max pressure i see is .7 when im running at least 17psi on my guage. Even when my boost and standard guage are on zero, the PFC shows a negative pressure. I teed the T-Piece off the same line as the stock guage.

2) I am getting no midrange boost. It shows 10psi then bang at 4000rpm i get 16psi in a flash. Its like something is holding it back and then it clicks and i get boost and power. Its not the turbo as witth my HKS adjustable actuator i was getting heaps more power down low. The only change was lengthing the arm on the actuator.

Ive been reading that these computers learn boost but how long does it take?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92863-pfc-boost-controller-problems/
Share on other sites

Further testing, i just cannot seem to get any decent boost under 4000rpm, (only 11psi)and then bang it shoots to 17psi just like a switch. I might change actuators, ive changed all the settings (boost and cycle) and it doesnt seem to be doing anything to solve this.

If all fails, i'll be disconnecting the PFC boost controller and using the good old reliable HKs actuator arm as my boost controller, then i can get alot more boost down low.

Suggestions follow;

Problem #1. My guess is you have a wiring error, test it out by placing a multimeter across the MAP sensor output. You should see consistent and linear voltage changes as the boost changes. If not, you have the earth/active/sensor wires mixed up.

Problem #2. Most likely related to problem #1. Just to be sure I would check the vacuum hose connections carefully, you may have the in and outs crosssed over. The Apexi solenoid is a normally closed style, no voltage = closed vent). Apply 12 volts and make sure that when you blow in the fittings, the solenoid opens the bypass vent.

Hope that helps

:) cheers :)

I think i must have crossed the wires somewhere, i will check again. Maybe the voltage coming out of the map sensor is reading in the wrong PFC connection. I just hope if i swap it, it doesnt burn my PFC out.

Changed actuators and problem 2 is now fixed, im getting at least 15psi at 3500rpm now, much better.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...