Jump to content
SAU Community

Raizin Volt Stablizer

d00dz

By d00dz,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

d00dz Grand Master

d00dz

Posted
Posted

Hi all..

Went to justjap and bought some random things one of them being the volt stabilizer...

Just wondering how and where do people install this?

Running a long earth wire from the battery to the distributor? or?

Any pictures and/or advice would be greatfull.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96540-raizin-volt-stablizer/
Share on other sites
  • 9 months later...
anexiole Community Regular

anexiole

Posted
Posted
Hi all..

Went to justjap and bought some random things one of them being the volt stabilizer...

Just wondering how and where do people install this?

Running a long earth wire from the battery to the distributor? or?

Any pictures and/or advice would be greatfull.

Cheers

'err isn't the thing to be installed next to the batt on the boot of a skyline?

JaseR33 Collaborator

JaseR33

Posted
Posted

I ran 4gauge power cable from my neg terminal in the boot to the bonnet then wired up all earths from there. The stabiliser box is mounted next to my batt in the boot. will get some pics when i get a chance:)

anexiole Community Regular

anexiole

Posted
Posted

thanks, man. it would clear lotsa things up..

to run the 4 gaugecable to the engine bonnet, u would have to take off ur rear seats and run the wire all the way to the front,yea?

I ran 4gauge power cable from my neg terminal in the boot to the bonnet then wired up all earths from there. The stabiliser box is mounted next to my batt in the boot. will get some pics when i get a chance:)
JaseR33 Collaborator

JaseR33

Posted
Posted

I had to remove rear seats to run 4 gauge cable. I ran it under the floor carpet on the drivers side with the stock wiring as there are guides in place. The 4G cable is thick and difficult to thread under the carpet without removing bolts for the drivers seat and seat belt anchor.

I then ran it uder the drivers kick panel and through the fire wall just above the throttle pedal which leads to the drivers side wheel arch under the guard. There are guides there that run behind the drivers side headlight in to the engine bay.

Took a total of 6m of cable to run it through properly.

From the 4G cable in the engine bay I mounted all the earthing points.

Afterwards I did notice better sound quality of my audio and brighter interior lights i think... :laugh:

Cheers

Cheers

anexiole Community Regular

anexiole

Posted
Posted

If anyone could come up with a TUTORIAL on how to do this (with pics too) , it would be good :O

thanks'

I had to remove rear seats to run 4 gauge cable. I ran it under the floor carpet on the drivers side with the stock wiring as there are guides in place. The 4G cable is thick and difficult to thread under the carpet without removing bolts for the drivers seat and seat belt anchor.

I then ran it uder the drivers kick panel and through the fire wall just above the throttle pedal which leads to the drivers side wheel arch under the guard. There are guides there that run behind the drivers side headlight in to the engine bay.

Took a total of 6m of cable to run it through properly.

From the 4G cable in the engine bay I mounted all the earthing points.

Afterwards I did notice better sound quality of my audio and brighter interior lights i think... :laugh:

Cheers

Cheers

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

isnt there like 4 or 6 wires off the stabiliser? each of these to hook up to individual parts of the engine bay,

CAS, starter, earth strap to block, throttle body etc ??

i would run 1 wire from boot to engine bay, hook stabiliser to the wire in the engine bay then each bit to the spot on the engine...

but thats just me

hicas_posse Community Regular

hicas_posse

Posted
Posted

hmmmm... how do you run the wire from the boot to the engine bay?

i know how to bring it from the boot to the front seat(by taking the rear bak seat off but after that i'm as long as the guy is too.

isnt there like 4 or 6 wires off the stabiliser? each of these to hook up to individual parts of the engine bay,

CAS, starter, earth strap to block, throttle body etc ??

i would run 1 wire from boot to engine bay, hook stabiliser to the wire in the engine bay then each bit to the spot on the engine...

but thats just me

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • DraftySquash
      Looking for someone with a R34 front bar

      By DraftySquash · Posted

      Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
    • MBS206
      Most women will agree that parking is the most taxing part of driving

      By MBS206 · Posted

      It's TWO steering wheels actually. 😛 one for each hand They are wheels, and they steer!
×
×
  • Create New...