immelmann

Engine: Balanced crank and rods, blueprinted to Nissan specs at minimum clearances, ROSS forged pistons, ARP head studs, race main and big end bearings, oil control head restriction, cleaned lifters, full new OEM gasket set, new timing belt kit, checked oil pump clearances, new crank sprocket, etc.... Turbo: Hi flowed TD06-19C, Trust dump and cold side elbow, stainless intake bell to compressor, waste-gate dump had separate exhaust where it re-joins main dump, aftermarket adjustable waste-gate actuator holding 17 psi (turbo can do way more and engine responds well to boost), 3 inch exhaust all the way with bashed cat. FMIC, pod filter, power FC Has aftermarket coil packs, heavy duty clutch, 5 speed gearbox AND PLEASE READ FIRST POST

make an offer

Wish I wasn't moving away from a race track and already had a house! ;/

sorry double post, it came up with an error saying it didn't work.

1993 Nissan Skyline GTS with built BR20DET Turbo (balanced, blue printed, oil control, forged pistons, head studs, race bearings etc...) prepared for dedicated Drift and Track work. Power FC, Nismo 2-Way LSD with big shafts, Big brakes, full suspension package, race seat and harness, spare wheels, fire extinguisher, CAMS compliant with all markings. Scrutineers no worries. Lightweight chassis. Ready to go nothing to spend. With the big front brakes and 205RWkW professionally tuned, predictable handling and 2Way LSD, it is a lot of fun and slides very well! With a different wheel alignment would be an excellent (grip) track car. The car has done less than one season. Engine about 15 hours old. NO DENTS OR RUST. NEVER needed to limiter bash either. I am a qualified mechanic and am confident it will be reliable to the new owner and can do a compression test / jack it up and look under, whatever test and let you drive it no worries. Action on board footage: Reluctant sale. Being a grown up. $8K onoNeed deposit on a house. email preferred [email protected] Darwin. http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/darwin-cbd/cars-vans-utes/1993-nissan-skyline-coupe/1029010625

1993 Nissan Skyline GTS with built BR20DET Turbo (balanced, blue printed, oil control, forged pistons, head studs, race bearings etc...) prepared for dedicated Drift and Track work. Power FC, Nismo 2-Way LSD with big shafts, Big brakes, full suspension package, race seat and harness, spare wheels, fire extinguisher, CAMS compliant with all markings. Scrutineers no worries. Lightweight chassis. Ready to go nothing to spend. With the big front brakes and 205RWkW professionally tuned, predictable handling and 2Way LSD, it is a lot of fun and slides very well! With a different wheel alignment would be an excellent (grip) track car. The car has done less than one season. Engine about 15 hours old. NO DENTS OR RUST. NEVER needed to limiter bash either. I am a qualified mechanic and am confident it will be reliable to the new owner and can do a compression test / jack it up and look under, whatever test and let you drive it no worries. Action on board footage: Reluctant sale. Being a grown up. $8K onoNeed deposit on a house. email preferred [email protected] PLEASE DO NOT POST HERE Darwin.

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/darwin-cbd/cars-vans-utes/1993-nissan-skyline-coupe/1029010625

Pmd

?

Ready to throw most of this out - make an offer via PM

Yes, the leather bit and the plastic / rubber bit

Still available

WTB: R32 Skyline GTS /T clutch pedal and pedal box. PM if available please.

WTB: R32 Skyline clutch pedal and pedal box. PM if available please.

LH trim for sale, make an offer

PM me for each item. Whatever postage costs me is what it will cost you and will be in addition to that of the part.

http://i1355.photobucket.com/albums/q714/immelmannix/IMAG0515_zpsa54908f4.jpg http://i1355.photobucket.com/albums/q714/immelmannix/IMAG0518_zpseff6a2de.jpg http://i1355.photobucket.com/albums/q714/immelmannix/IMAG0516_zpsb412db46.jpg http://i1355.photobucket.com/albums/q714/immelmannix/IMAG0518_zpseff6a2de.jpg http://i1355.photobucket.com/albums/q714/immelmannix/IMAG0519_zps51599170.jpg

I'll have a look, bear with me.

Still for sale

Door trims not for sale at the moment.

I have recently rebuilt my R32 RB20DET engine as the previous owner broke a timing belt and bent valves and damaged the pistons. I rebuilt it using ROSS forged pistons, ARP head studs and rod bolts with honing and ACL Race big end and main bearings. It's all balanced with a second hand head that looked okay with a Cometic MLS head gasket I have blocked off the rear oil restrictor between the block and head. I put a 1.2mm front restrictor in as it is a Drift car. I finally got it running yesterday and it had very noisy lifters (that's what it sounded like to me). I am using Penrite 10W40 running in oil and it has only been running for about 15 minutes but the lifter noise was constant the whole time and didn't ease up. Pulling the oil filler cap off showed oil on the cam and a nice film following it. The factory dash oil pressure gauge read over half way and the oil pressure light went out about 10 seconds after the very first start. I decided to clean the hydraulic lifters. I set it to TDC Compression #1 and pulled the cam covers and timing belt off. I took the timing belt backing plate off and cam gears off. I evenly undid the camshaft bearing caps all along a quarter turn at a time and some loosened okay and progressively. However, some bearing cap bolts felt like they were binding and at least 4 or 5 felt like they were going to snap - thankfully none did. I rocked the caps to see if they were actually free of the head and not binding in the cap itself and quite a few seem to have bound in the caps. I left it there with the lifters still in place as it was getting dark and I'd had enough. Is it normal for the cam bearing caps to bind up on removal? Do the bolt holes need to be reamed? Will they be just as painful on the install? Did I do anything wrong? Thanks in advance.

R32 GTS 1993 Nissan Skyline COUPE 2 door interior from dash down removed and available. Dark grey with SRS airbag gear. Not including: C-Pillar trims (damaged), roof lights, front door skins, handbrake, drivers seatbelt. Otherwise complete and most interior bits available in average condition. Includes boot trim and fittings including spare etc. Stripped for use as Drift car. Prefer PM, send me your number and I'll call you back. Name your price noting that it needs to be worth my while - I don't really know what stuff is worth. Otherwise from $5. Located near Darwin and happy to post at buyers expense - postage costs you what it costs me. If you want it posted be prepared to pay what it costs. Pickup okay.

PM sent on: r33 gtst front hubs, rotors and brakes good for 5 stud $250 I want this.

Sorted, thanks for looking.

I'm building up a R32 GTS Skyline (with RB20DET engine) for doing motorkhana and drifting. It is to be registered. I have come down from Darwin to Adelaide and are buying up parts before the drive back in a couple of days. So far I have got: Oil catch can Upgraded coilpacks FIbreglass seat (need to get rails) Nismo two way LSD and driveshafts to suit (still running GTS four stud wheels / hubs / brakes) Strut braces R33 front lower control arms Adjustable front Castor rods with rubber dust boots I am rebuilding the RB20DET engine with Ross Forged pistons crack tested std rods arp rod bolds (with honing) arp head studs race main and rod bearings balanced bottom end hd clutch 1.2mm front oil restrictor and blanked rear restrictor aftermarket exhaust air filter I will probably go to a rb25det turbo as I'm really only chasing 200kw with associated mods I plan on getting within the next few days: ISC coilovers 'Pineapples' / diff cradle bushes maybe run a BA radiator thermofan rear upper camber arms steering rack spacers Front mount intercooler maybe oil cooler I want to go adjustable swaybars also - what would you reccommend? Also some wheel alignment settings please. Or care to comment on what else I need / should change before the drive back, I should have a trailer. Freight is killer to Darwin, especially cumulatively. Thanks, Greg