mrchams

Hi guys, My name is Dean Summers. I currently shoot for Fast Fours, Autosalon, Speed and MaxPower Magazine. I find Easton's work fresh and very creative. Considering Easton's has only been doing professional photography for a short time, he's doing extremely well. Magazine editors just done by anyones photos. I know a number of photographers including myself appriciate his tallent with and without the use of photoshop. I utilise photoshop if I think it will give that extra feel/mood to the photo. My two cents...

Thanks guys for all your comments and support. Much appreciated. I'm going to miss being a GTR owner. But one day you never know!

-= SOLD =- A regretful sale. 1994 R32 BNR32 GTR (As seen in Speed Magazine and Fast Fours) -I.S Motor Racing build and tuned engine, -Trust T78-33D single turbo, -Greddy 55mm wastegate, -Trust GREX forged pistons and rods, -Cryogenic treated crank, -I.S Motor Racing custom head, -Adjustable cam gears, -Greddy drag core intercooler, -Trust race oil cooler, -Greddy remote oil filter, -720cc injectors, -Fuel regulator, -APEXi Power FC, -APEXi AVC-R boost controller, -Bilstien coil overs, -Shift Sports Japan carbon fibre bonnet, -Exedy triple plate clutch, -Custom billet aftermarket gearbox with custom ratios (1st, 2nd, 3rd straight cut, 4th & 5th helical cut), -Trust exhaust system, -Defi gauges, -Greddy turbo timer, -Dronell 19”x10” wheels. Nothing to spend. -= 420 kw at all 4 wheels. Blistering Performance! Offer over $45,000

Check out the front page of the paper this morning. They reckon he was doing 200km/h. Poor guys didn't have a chance. It makes me think, what am I trying to achieve with my high horsepower GTR. Terrible news....

It's smart ass comments that get you into trouble

I think you might find that it's not just the crank that gives the extra stoke but also the combination of the piston height and conrod length. The displacement was messured and was found to be just over 2.7ltr. I'll have to check whether my rods a standard length or not. Regarding compression, both my head and deck where milled to accomodate the setup the mechanic is seeking.

I don't think a thicker block gives you realibility. If the block is going to crack, I honestly don't think 1mm is going to save you. I've seen pistons and rods go through the side of a block with a standard sized bore due to spinning bearings. As you may know, RB26 engines are renowed for spinning bearings which in turn will damage all kinds of things in the engine including the engine block. I think it's the package that will give you realiablity.

I cracked my old block in 4 places.

That does make sense.

My kit isn't the stroker kit, it's the 2.7 ltr kit. The stoker kit comes with the crank which I didn't get.

You'll have to tell tuning shops like Top Secret, Still Way, Veilside etc. that it doesn't make much difference. Most of those tuners build track and high speed cars. Regarding oils, The less friction on an engine the better.

Yep, you read right. 5000km. I can't imagine running 1.9 bar of boost on a new engine that has only done 1,500km. Even if the engine was standard, I still wouldn't tune it to full power till at least 5,000km. After spending over $10,000 on the engine, 5,000km is nothing mate.

With different piston and rod sizes... http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/t...dett27rkit.html Its good to find a use for all the years in school.

The price is very high just for Greddy pistons. You should be able to get the pistons for approx $2500 and the rods for approx the same, $2500...

I don't agree with not running in an engine. My mechanic use to work for Nissan Japan. They did test on how to run in RB engines. He told me that the best result was when they ran the engine up to 4,000rpm for the 1st 1,500km then oil change then up to 5,000rpm to 5,000km. He told me the bore was perfect after such a run in. The test also involved using mineral based oil in some engines and full-synthetic in other engines. The full-synthetic oil run engines came out much better.

The stoke on the trust piston is 75.7mm and the piston size is 87.5. http://www.benedict.esu7.org/sblock/ccfrm.html Regarding the mods etc, It's not just the pistons that has given the improvement but extensive head work. The head work included modifying the bowl shape, different angles on the valves and valve chamber, valve guide modified, cam area opened for bigger cams and the obvious port enlargement. I am currently running the standard cams with adjustable cam gears. Bigger cams will be fitted soon once I decide what size to get. Yes, I did notice the difference. The engine does feel like it has more down low torque but I can't say till we tune it on the dyno.

This is not the stroker kit. The piston size makes it 2.7ltr. My pistons are 87.5mm not 86.5mm. Typo If you check out this link, you can calculate the displacement http://www.benedict.esu7.org/sblock/ccfrm.html It's something like this (don't quote me on it) Bore radius squared x pi x stroke x no. of cyl = Total cubic displacement

I sure am... there are different kits from what I understand. The kit that I have is 87.5mm GREX pistons and GREX H pattern rods. The larger 2.7ltr piston kit helps my Greddy T78 spool up quicker. Due to the cost of after market cranks, I am running a standard crank that has been shot penned and cryogenically treated (dunno what the hell that is but hey...) The standard cranks are pretty strong. Before my rebuild this crank held 720hp with no signs of breaking. Not sure what there limit is. I'm still running in the engine. Once I have it tuned I'll let you all know how I went for power. The kit on the link above is just the over sized 87mm piston kit.

Just a short update, - The Trust pistons are actually 87.5mm high compression priston. - Compression will be set between 9.0 - 9.5 to complement 1.6 bar of boost. - The head modifications and porting has started. A few pics there for you to check out.

Are you running the popular RB30 with GTR head setup?

Hey meggala, I've seen a hand full of cars come off the boat and make 300-400kw. Not that I would do it myself or encourage it but in the right hands on a dyno with the right monitoring equipment....

You all have valid points. I'll try and reply to some of the responses that I can. The previous owner quoted me 720hp and you could be right, could well have been on a Japanese dyno on higher octane fuel. - Blow-by could have been the incorrect terminology but basically the head gasket was leaking between the pistons. There was signs of detonation but a bad tune could have also been a reason. I can't say. - It's currently running a Power FC - Regarding the 2.7 ltr kit, I believe it had 86.5mm pistons which I think makes the 2.7 ltr. - I remember being told that the head bolts had been stretched a touch which could have resulted in head gasket leakage. - I believe we are going to setup the car on 1.5 bar (21.75600 psi) of boost on pump fuel - The rings and oil rings are in perfect condition, gap and all. The bore is also ok. No head gasket damage but evidence of leakage between pistons and on outer edge of block. - The main reason for the rebuild was because of excessive crank movement. I'm sure a leak down test wasn't done before it was pulled apart due to crank being the reason for the rebuild. - Yes, I'd like to target 450 kw which I also understand is the limit of the T78 33D. The 720 hp figures are from previous owner. We are hoping with a few small changes like head modifications different cams we are hoping to make the engine run more efficient which in turn produce 450 kw on slightly lower boost. - Regarding the Apex drag car, nice lead to follow if you have 72,000,000 yen to play with. I would also by the parts needed to push the RB26 to its limits. I'm was comparing apples with apples. - Your knowledge and suggestion are appreciated even with the limited information I have given, your suggestions are relative. When I get a chance I'll find out more specific detail on what's going to be done in development of the engine. Thanks guys

Apparently the compression was much higher than standard, I'll have to ask for the figures. My mechanic said that not even the metal head gasket that was installed was holding the pressure. Maybe you might be able to guess with some previous hp readings. Previously it was producing 720hp on 1.4 bar on the T78. What my mechanic is planning is lower the compression to the right ratios and raise the boost a touch or something like this. I'm still trying to get more detailed information on current specs and future specs. From what I've read, shops like Top Secret Japan which build 1300+ps engines don't go for high compression. I'm going to follow Japan's lead I think.

That's what I asked my mechanic, but he said that it all messures up to just over 2.7 ltrs hmmm...

Yes, you are right... I wasn't thinking. Doh :wassup: I know what you are saying regarding the compression but is was just to high for the setup we are going to do. I haven't got the dimensions of gasket sizes and all but will soon. It will all probably make more sense after.