mickr33couple

Hi for sale is a brand new nitto crank collar not used still in unopened packet with grub screws $150 Also have a Bosch timing belt for rb25 less then 2000kms $60

For sale is r33 skyline Motor is still currently been built but will be finished this week So basically your buying a car with a brand new built motor that hasn't been started It will be back in the car running and if you wanted before the sale will be dyno tune for run in I have receipts for building the motor and the parts that are in the build Everything is brand new Je pistons 86.5mm Nitto rods Block been bored, hone, washed, oil gallieres wided Crank collar fitted Crank been polished and balanced Nitto oil pump 850cc injectors Fuel pressure reg 044 in tank pump Arp head and main studs Acl racing bearings 256 cams with adj can wheel Head has been serviced, washed, crack tested, new valve stem seals Mlsd headgasket Brand new garret gt3540 turbo not used until motor starts High mount ex manifold Forward facing plenum brand new 80mm throttle body brand new Catch can FMIC hybrid Z32 afm D2 racing coilovers Apexi ecu with hand controller 17inch shadow chrome kings rims with brand new tyres Stainless 3inch exhaust Screamer pipe Brand new water pump and tensions Brand new gates racing timing belt So much to list I know I have forgotten things Any questions just ask this is built to make big power over 500+hp Chasing $16,000

What pressure does the greddy run at?

Do you work for red r racing? Been trying to contact them but can't find a contact number? I think the engine builder may have already block one feed and 1.5mm in the other

Forged motor Je pistons Nitto rods Acl race bearings Head studs main studs 256 cams Crank collar Nitto pump 9l baffled, wing, gated sump Not sure of what clearances the engine builder is running but he said they were big clearance s

Nitto has been great with helping out and taking the time out to have a chat and talk about everything they possible know and to give the best advise they can without building the motor them selfs, I appreciate the help nitto has given thanks guys There is so many factors with running a high volume pump different ways to set them up, nitto pump on gtr there is heaps of info for but for a rb25 I'm struggling to find some, so I guess it's gonna be a trail and error for this build

Yeah running hydraulic lifters and VCt, the engine builder didn't wanna put any in for the fact of noisey lifters... Nitto website says dual spring crack off is 120psi... Single spring crack off is 75psi?? Should I do the single spring to give me the 75psi if this is max?

So many mixed story's, this thread has a graph on the first page and that says to block the rear?

ill clear a fair things up engine builder has some insights of building rb's but hasnt used a high flow pump i believe in saying that he has done all the oil mods in the block for the oil to get down quicker.... but yeh somethings dont add up and i question why on some parts like blowing oil filter off and not putting oil restritors in with high flow pump, also my motor isnt stock je pistons nitto rods arp head and mains 256 cams 8.5litre sump baffled, gated, extended pickup yeah thats why i rang nitto for some advise seeing they would of trail and error the pumps, but andrew has told me that what oil size restritor is really up to the engine builder but if i work out the oil restritor and a head drain it be a great setup, rang crd which help devople the nitto pump with nitto and they have helped me out with the size oil restritor they have used, thanks for that guys

hi all, before anyone says anything yes i have looked thur all oil control related topics and no i havnt seen anything that answers my questions... i have bought a nitto oil pump and collar to run on my rb25det street driven r33 oil galleries have been widen in the block for faster return from head my questions are... engine builder has inform me that anything above 100psi will blow the oil filter off, or the O ring, now seeing as the nitto oil pump is rated at 120psi dual spring he sees this as a problem, i have mention removing the inner spring to bring the psi down to 75psi he said this is not good? anyone that currently has a nitto pump on the rb25 have you left it at 120psi with no issues? also do yous have a remote oil filter? secondly oil restritors he doesnt seem to wanna fit oil restritors to the block with the nitto pump coz of noisey lifters he has said he will fit them if its what i want but if it has noisey lifters its my own fault which is true i have spoken to andrew at nitto in regards to what oil restritors i should use and he doesnt wanna give me a answer coz if something happens he doesnt wanna be blamed.. which is fair enough have also spoken to croydon racing he has let me know what size restritors they use on the rb25 with nitto pump and they have nothing but great news with nitto pumps and with them been on there gtr's with over 1000hp if anyone can clear up these issues that will be great thanks

This table says to block middle?

Narrow it down to ill be setting pressure to 70-65psi Narrow the restritors to Leave VCt, 1.3mm in the other two Or Leave VCt, 1.5mm and block rear, (or should this be block middle 1.5mm rear) Abr33 are you running a head drain? Also are you running bigger sump with extended pickup?

Pressure relief valve crack off is 75psi outta spring only

What size did you go? Also nitto recommend not to adjust the pressure valve

I guess I can get my engine builder to set it as he was gonna with the n1 pump I believe, Did you use oil restritors once pressure was set?

It be street driven daily, (cruising) so low rpm only when I wanna get it a boot full here and there Will see 1/4mile here and there It's a nitto oil pump and larger sump

Hmmm everyone I have rang (fair few shops) including nitto, can not tell me a straight answer which makes me wonder!!! I've been told again to do Leave front, 1.5mm middle, block rear Also everyone I have rang has not said anything about adjusting the pressure? Even nitto

Bumping this up, I know the topic is for drift drag etc, But do the rules still apply for street use? I've bought a nitto pump coz I don't wanna break n1 pumps etc but seeing as the nitto pump flows a lot more oil at 7000rpm then standard this would pool the head therefore oil restritors would be used to limit the oil going to the head (plus other oil control) But for a street driven r33 rb25det VCt daily driver that isn't going to see high rpm all day long only few street pulls and 1 1/4mile If you were to restrit the oil going to the head wouldn't this result at lower rpm (cruising) for the hydraulic lifters to be noisey? Seeing as litres/ per min nitto vs factory is Engine rpm. Factory. Nitto 750. 4.6. 6.5 2200. 15.3. 20.2 7000. 46.5. 64.8 Pretty much I'm trying to fine out what oil restritors I need to not pool the head up high rpm and still be suitable for street daily cruising? Leave the front, block middle, 1.5rear Leave the front, block middle, 1.3 rear Leave the front, 1.2 middle, 1.2 rear I have been told to do this? But with the 1.5 rear I've heard of noisey lifters? This may have been covered for other oil pumps but have seen anyone talk about it for a nitto pump and street use Thanks for any help

I thought it was leave the front block the middle and 1.5mm rear??? Could I go 1.3 middle 1.3 rear? I don't want lifter noise

I'm going the nitto oil pump, pissed the n1 pump off, Now the question is what oil restrictors for the nitto pump? I'm getting a larger sump as well Does 2x 1.2mm sound right ???

As the title states I need 1x 1.2mm oil restrictor ASAP need it by Thursday the lately I'm in Sydney so if you make them or know a shop that has them in stock would be great!! Also need 6 hydraulic valve lifters out of a rb25det No big rush for them but the sooner the better

Hahaha funny thing is, when the owner was trying to sell it he was saying the day after it bogged down and it got hot he started it up and there was no knocks or anything... BULLSHIT lol thing would of been knocking its head off, I got the car pretty cheap knowing something big or small could be stuffed didn't think this much damage would of been done in 2000ks tho Yes I have started again with a NEW bottom end and the motor is been built by a different person (not the person that built it the first time)

Haha yep f**ked on a hole New level, Not using anything off that motor apart from the head and cams Started all over, bought a block girdle and crack, rods bearings main studs, motor should be finished been built this weekend

Grab some pics of the girdle today

I have also been told that I need to replace the throw out bearing in the gearbox coz it was noisey, can this also contribute to the damage caused