wilch

Turns out there is no real easy way of getting to the little bugger. My mechanic had to drop the gearbox, and even then he couldn't get the thing out. Ended up cutting the wires and using a socket to get it out.

An easy way to remove badges and stickers is to use a hairdryer... heat them up a little, then pull them off slowly. You then remove the residue with a little bit of methylated spirits, wash, then polish. You won't be able to tell that the sticker was there in the first place unless your paint has faded noticeably (paint under the sticker will not have faded as much). wil..

The other car was a series 1, but with less kilometres though. The boost reading should be reasonably accurate. Was using the Greddy profec B spec 2's psi reading... peak was 10.5 psi

Well the 3" front/dump pipe (already had HKS from the cat back), and greddy profec b spec 2 ebc went in yesterday. All tuned up on the dyno (the ebc that is) and all is good . high boost is set to 10psi, low at 8psi. Very, very noticeable difference. The car made 155rwkw @ 10psi. The skyline that they did before mine with similar mods only made 122rwkw @ 10psi on the same dyno. Is 155rwkw (taking into account the other skyline) healthy?

Would that be "safe"? have 10psi as the low and 12psi as the high or something? I was thinking 7psi because I thought it'd be more "fuel efficient" (I know, I know... silly and stuff). I should be getting the dump+front within the 2 weeks after getting the boost controller. Then an FMIC and computer a month after that. wil..

it's a 97 series 2. Also only planning on running 7psi for the low boost, and 10psi for the high boost mode.

Cheers guys I'm leaning towards a boost controller first at the moment. Getting rid of the dual stage 5psi/7psi@4500rpm thing should beef up the midrange noticeably for the moment. Then I'll get the dump/front done, and get the computer when I get the FMIC (so i only have to get it tuned once). wil..

Thanks guys. So you reckon that getting the front half of the exhaust done will be the best bang for my buck? Would I feel the gains more than if I just got an electronic boost controller installed and up'd the boost to 10psi?

Hi guys, I need some advice, what do you reckon I should get first? Which will give me more bang for my buck at this stage? FMIC (can't really afford atm), boost controller, dump, front pipe, or dump and front pipe? I've currently got a 3.5 inch HKS exhaust from the cat back, and pod filter. wil..

good spot!

That's true. Like I said, John did ask me as I was walking out, and he's great! BUT, I was standing there looking at their display cases for what seemed like an eternity. There's only so much you can look at. I was waiting to be served. Fair enough, Some people just like to browse. But I had passed the "browsing" stage. I didn't want to go up to the counter and cough like a rude git, the people there were having a bit of a yarn to what seemed to be one of their friends. I did eventually stand behind the guy that was talking, but I wasn't acknowledged at all. The feeling I got was, "Look we're busy talking, can't you see". So I went back to browsing, and waiting. I didn't get acknowledged till I was walking out, and that's when John had come out and saw that I was walking out. Now, you might think I was dressed like a derro, or looked like a kid that wasn't going to buy anything. But I had just come from work. I was in a suit and tie, and I was ready to spend a lot of money. By the way, I'm not "ripping on them". Like I said, when I got spoken to, by the proprietor no less, it was great! wil.. ps. NOT RIPPING ON UNIQUE!!! ....maybe ripping on some of their employees customer service a little.

Same thing happened to me. But as I was walking out John asked if I needed any help. They're really helpful over the phone, I'll give them that, but walk in service is a bit iffy sometimes. Great place and all, but it's happened more than once. wil..

Spotted my car's twin on the way to work this morning on New Line Road @ around 8:30. Flashed my lights and got a wave wil..

I've also got a fibreglass bar on the front of my R33. It's been cracked, but I've repaired it myself... They're stronger than you might think. I also don't think there's anything wrong with putting a GTR style bar on a GTS-t, the GTR bar's look cool I reckon. I like them. Can you spot where it's been repaired??

They also make the car do this... The only other car I've ever seen lift the rear wheel when jacking from the front jack point is an s2000.

Anyone?

To be honest I'm not quite sure. They came with the car. They've got height adjustment, the little damper adjustment things on top, they're green, and they've got TEIN on the bottom of the shocks.

Thanks encrico!! I haven't had time to remove the rear seats and check the rear settings yet. The fronts are set to 5 clicks from the softest setting. I'll check out the rears on the weekend.

Ok... Whacked it in after f'ing around with it for awhile. The damn wires wouldn't take any solder!!!! What's up with that? I even got out my heavy duty soldering iron to see if the problem was not enough heat. Nup. Didn't work. So anyway, I got out the crimping set and crimped some new plugs on and put it all back together. Oh, I was also still worried about that part number, so before putting it in (I had already cut my old o2 sensor off) I called some other repco stores to verify the part numbers. ACA ROX207 = direct fitment ford EL falcon (straight 6) O2 sensor $75 25% off ACA ROX203 = universal fitment for EL falcon (straight 6) O2 sensor $101 25% off The difference between the 2? The universal is about $30 more expensive. But the internal's of the 2 are exactly the same. Both are 3 wire. Anyway, I had the cheaper ACA ROX207 direct fitment one. It fits by the way. Really easily. The only problem I had was connecting the old plug back onto this one. The wires would just not take any solder. So I popped the new girl in. Started the car up. Went out the back........All I could smell was petrol....and the exhaust was coloured slightly (more than normal, ie. grey). Time to swear right? Turned her off. Reset the ECU. Started her back up again....Same deal....Got my mate to rev the car. PETROL WAS COMING OUT OF THE EXHAUST!!! The ground had petrol splatters all over it. This was reving only lightly by the way (engine had only just come off the "cold" level on the temp gauge). So I wiped the exhaust off. By this stage the exhaust gas was clear again (not grey/black), and petrol had stopped splattering out. I took her for a drive. Slowly at first, constantly checking the mirrors for billowing smoke. All clear. No smoke. Floored it. She picked up better than before, grabbed second and checked the mirrors for the large puff of black smoke that normally happened on the 1st to 2nd change at wide open throttle. No smoke! So I kept on driving around, checking for smoke, and listening for pinging. All ok. Floored it again got wheelspin and a nice kick in the back so she's not in limp mode. When I got back home I checked the exhaust tip which was always blackened after a drive and hey it wasn't black! I also thought I'd get my mate to rev it again (hard this time - to redline) a few times quickly. No smoke. All good. For now all's good. The new o2 sensor seems to be working better than the old one. Here's hoping I get more km's out of tank now. BTW, I also rang up Hornsby Nissan. They quoted $184 for the Nissan o2 sensor. wil..

If you pop the hood, and check out the pipe heading off the rear of the turbo you'll see a plug like thing sticking out of the pipe. That's your O2 sensor. I'm getting about 320km's to a tank (down to 1/4) and that is driving "sanely" (only occasionally giving it a quick squirt), and my car (white) is always covered in black soot. I reckon it's running rich. What does everyone else think? wil..

I've got exactly the same problem CroatianDlite. I'm going to get my o2 sensor changed first I think.

Hi guys, I've got tein coil overs on my car but I don't know how to adjust the rear damper settings. The fronts are easy. But I can't figure out how to adjust the rear. I can't see the top of the rear struts (r33 gts-t). Does anyone know how to adjust the rear damper settings? wil..

can this do any damage at all? Or is it a standard and safe mod? wil..

hmmm I haven't been spotted yet. I've spotted a few though. I was in Sutherland the other night (i live in the hills district though), and was outside a friends place just having a hug in front of my car when a gts-t drove up, so I waved... he stopped and reversed all the way back we had a good old chat, then he burned off. I see a few around...but I don't think any of the drivers I've seen come in here. Ah well. wave when you see me I always do. wil..

Hi guys, My r33 gts-t's reverse lights aren't working and it looks like the switch is screwed... Anyway, I've tried to take the old switch of the gearbox but I can't get a spanner in there to get the damn thing off. Do I have to drop the gearbox to get the switch off? Is there any other way? Has anyone here tried before? wil..