paul_psi
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Posts posted by paul_psi
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first problem is I have just put a new koyo radiator in and the temp gauge is going straight to boiling even on reds
second problem I started my car yesterday and it won't start today iv installed a hole heap of parts over the last 2 months ill list the engine and electrical things I installed
Etm manifold dump turbosmart 45mm gate gt3582
4inch exhaust
750cc injectors surge tank 044 fuel reg ect
microtech lt16c
eboost
koyo rad
600x300x90 cooler and piping
oil cooler and relocation kit
spitfire coilpack (car was running with them before)
the car hasn't been tuned yet its booked in next week but no point tuning it if it won't start. so yesterday I was ready to start the car I cranked it over till I got oil pressure plugged the computer back in and it fired straight away rough as but it started I shut it off quickly as had no water in the radiator ( I was waiting on hoses) so today I put the hoses in filled it up with water and went to start it and it just kept cranking not firing at all I can't work out what could be wrong with it at all any help would be great
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that's what's confusing me I make the lines myself and the guy I but it off said you'll need this restrictor and just gave it to me. looking at garrett website said there's one built in then when I googled it half said they put an extra the other half didnt. I'm not going to put one in the line for the simple point that there's 2 places for it to get blocked
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thanks guys its genuine garrett I'm going to run dash 4 Teflon line and a stainless tube return
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okay I have a gt3582r I'm making the oil and water lines and I'm getting mixed feed back wether to put in a restrictor in or not. I would like to know what people have done and what size if they put one in. I don't want to flood my turbo but I don't want it running dry as well
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I'm running hight mount external gate pumb back to try and make it a bit quieter ill put 2 mufflers in it won't be hard to make a straight pipe to throw in before I race and dump at dif for a straight through system
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thanks for the quick reply's im goint to have just a fake cat on there it will be straight through ill use 2 mufflers to try and keep the noise down ill make sure that they are the oval type
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would it be spastic loud? would 2 be to restrictive?
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let me start with sorry if this is in the wrong section still getting used to the site. okay I have a gt3582 turbo sitting on a new Etm manifold Etm has also made me up a dump pipe witch is 4inch coming off the turbo now here's my problem should I continue with the 4inch drop it down to 3.5inch or even 3.25. my plan at the moment is 3.5inch straight through to the dif have a flang at the dif to dump it then have a muffler with just a straight pipe out the back I don't want it to load I'm trying to make the car look stock with hidden power. any ideas would be great I'm chasing 400kw
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I'm doing basically the same thing as you at the moment.
I'm leaving the rb25 that is in my car and just putting heaps of bolt on mods like Etm manifold gt3582 forward facing plenum new process west intercooler 3inch cooler piping microtech lt16c spitfire coils surge tank 044 external pump walbro internal -6 fuel lines ( ill be going -8 soon) and I'm just going to put that on a safe tune so I can drive the car while I built the 25/30
so what iv done is got a 25 head and a vl turbo bottom end ( doesn't have to be a vl turbo can be just a series 2 needs water and oil ports for turbo) first I'm going to do the head so iv ordered a camtech 426B my mechanic had a set of overside valves so I grabbed them and heaviest set of hydraulic valve springs I could taken the head to local machining shop to fit it all and weld up the vct also while its there open up the throught and do some porting work I'm doing all this befor I pick the pistons so we can get an idea of compression before buy them I have a set of rods with 22mm pins from my vl I'm just going to use them
this is were I'm up to at the moment now it's time for the bottom end work out the oil pump get the crank all machined and collar fitted acl bearings get the block bored I'm going to get a asr sump that's baffled and gated
I'm aiming for a safe 400kw all day everyday hope this helps you with your build
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I want to take my body kit off and make my car look stock so I'm in need of a good condition front bumper no cracks doesn't need to have fog lights and indicators I have them Sydney/wollongong area give me a call on 0432574967
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I'm looking for a core but that price is outragours
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keen on rear lower control arms traction rods rear upper camber arms for r33
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ok so I'm starting to do my rear suspension and iv started replacing the bushes I have changed the diff mounting bushes easy with no hassle now I'm trying to do the crossmember or cradle bushes how in the world do you get the old ones out I'm at the point were I'm going to get the oxy and melt them can anyone help?
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hey mate can you give me a call on 0432574967 thanks
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cheers thanks
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I'm looking at putting these tomei cams in, iv got a spare head that I'm putting together new springs bit of a port and full clean of everything. I'm trying to find out if the tomei poncam still use vct or it is disconnected? what is the real loss if I disconnect the vct? iv already got a set of hks cam gears as well. I'm aiming for the 400kw range and as low boost as possible. has anyone used the camtech camshafts?
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i had the same kind of problem just stopped working and i couldnt find any problems so what i did is tested the blue wirer coming out the pump and still no power was going to it. so i stripped a bit of the wire and conected it stright to the battery and the pump started working better then before (more amps straight from battery) so i wired up a relay with a fuse straight to the battery and didnt us the standard wires ( need to run a ignition wire to the relay i went straight from the key barrel i found a DIY on here somewhere that gave me a step by step on how to wire up the relay then just run a wire for ignition and disregard all standard wiring hope this helps
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so I plugged the standard ecu back in and it worked fine so there must be a problem with the microtech or the plug in part anyone had anything like this happen?
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okay so iv totally disconnected the turbo timer and unplugged all of the alarm and it's still doing it. I'm thinking its got something to do with the computer the auto elec can look at it till tomorrow so and advice will help
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sweet thanks
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that's what I recon should I just unplug it or should I disconnect all the wires?
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I'm having a problem with my r33 gtst was running fine then I installed 750cc injectors, 044 external pump, walbro 255 intank, microtech lt16c plug and play, removed all the idle control off the manifold, eboost 2 and now the car won't turn off if I turn the key off or even take it out the car will still run then if I stall the engine the reds are still on the only way to get them off is to unplug the computer the car has an alarm but doesn't work (well I can't work the stupid thing) and it also had a hks turbo timer. my plan is to remove the alarm and turbo timer and see what happens. or could it be a fult with the computer it's brand new so ill ring the bloke I got it off tomorrow just wanted to see if anyone can help thanks
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do you have s2 r33 front and rear bumper?
Need Some Help
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
just checked the computer and there's a error with air anyone no what that is??