jnr32r

ill take them if you still have them, in Syd tho.

im not too sure about the non turbo rx7 inj, but i have series 5 turbo and dont have any probs, so i cant see why he cant tune them? I dont know much about mirotechs but you should be able to tune them. Are they high impendance inj?

Ahh32 what hair dryer will you be using once ran in to get 250kw?

i agree with meggala and sk. I think sooner or later you will have to do it but i suppose if you wanted to go for cams first it wouldnt be a bad idea, but again you will make more power and therefore max out your AFM earlier though. So perhaps not such a good idea. I know the AFM is costy but in the end you will have to do it as thats gonna be your limiting factor.

What are you opinions of RB26 cams into RB20 over say Tomei or HKS cams into RB20?

isnt it a bit of a big task itself to get a 180b input shaft off the gearbox??? Ill prolly be doing this in the next month or two, but everyones scaring me about it. Ill be doing it with my ol man, what worries me is the height the car has to be at. My mate tells me if you dont have a hoist dont even bother. Ive done all 4 cars ive had (mind you 2 were FWD) and i really cant see how much more difficult a Skyline can be. us are all a bunch of wooses !!! LOL (we'll see when my day comes)

BBenny i can confirm that the cut out you are getting is your AFM. When i had the Std AFM i could see at about 1bar it was hitting a max of 5.1V. Im sure your fuel system should cope but its the AFM that will give you that cut off. Ive heard of people with 230kw with std inj and AFM. but realistically that cant be too healthy as your tunability is right up the top of your hardware with inj. and AFM close to their max. If i were you and was on a tight budget or dont want too much higher in power i would get a Z32 AFM and increase the fuel press. a tad. 220kw is just around the corner...

or you could get RX7 S5, i actually bought 4 for $180 from just a local jap wrecker, got them cleaned and flowed teseted. And the max i see on them is 70% duty cycle at 1.4bar.

hey Frankie what did you use to hold the HC on the console like that?

same

pics?

Anynoe know what the temperature correction actually does? I was playing around wtih mine and it actually idled smoother once i turned up the correction for +80 to 1.15 instead of 1.00.

very impressive ! cograts. have you thought of fitting a lightened flywheel at all? that should give you even better acceleration aswell, perhaps a 1.6 60' time....

very interested if price is right, also after flywheel and clutch combo ...

Roy, you said doing it with the head on holds a few more challanges... why do you think so? I would have thought taking the head off would be more difficult as you have more things to take off and be more careful with. Only bonus is you can change your gasket, maybe do some porting and check out the condition of your pistons(not that youll see all that much... )

Anyone know what the difference in specs between the RB20 and the RB26 cams are. Im guessing the RB26 have a longer duration as the HKS would but maybe not as much???

aybee, thats right q45 and 2535, the cars drivability is good, the rb20 makes 208kw @ 18psi. But i have turned upto 1.45bar and that makes quiet a difference. Just wish i had turned up to that level when i was on the dyno.

What sort of power increase would you expect from HKS 264s with a turbo like a 2535 on an RB20?

I know there is a Bosch part no. for the Q45 plug, but dont know what it is. ATM i have spade connectors in mine. Havent had the time to look for the plug

I agree with Emre i think it may even be a bearing in the box itself. If it was the Thrust bearing it should do it when you press the clutch in. Ive got the same problem in mine, just keep delaying it to fix it as my clutch is not too bad.

Im after ar least 2 RX7 S5 Injectors. Red Top High Impendance 550cc

I actually got it going now, turns out that the order posted here on the forums is all wrong. For the Q45 the order is actually SIGNAL - GND - 12V (Flow ==>) After a lot of playing around with a multimeter we figured it out. But now i got a bit of a problem cos when you rev past say 2K rpm and let go of the accelerator it turns off or it revs down to 200rpm and then up and down until it turns off. Its only at idle though, when driving around its fine.???????? Still gotta get the PFC tuned but im waiting to get injectors before i take it.

I was trying to install the Q45 the other day but was unsuccesful. Im still a little confused with the wires for the Earth as the RB20 AFM has a common Ground and a Signal Ground but the Q45 only has a common Ground. So im unsure which one to connect. I tried both and the common Ground, but didnt actually try the Signal Ground. Couldnt get car started. On the PFC tho i was getting a 500mV reading but it didnt change much when crancked. I had it set on VH41 for the AIRFLOW setting too, just incase somone thinks im that dumb... Q45 AFM wiring: AIR FLOW ======> 1 2 3 12V - Signal - Earth RB20 AFM wiring : AIR FLOW ======> 1 2 3 4 5 Blank - Air Signal - Power Ground - Signal Ground - 12V Also the wiring on my RB20 AFM is somewhat strange as there is 2 cables that are inside a light brown cable that is not connected to anything, it seems to be there just to insulate from a magnetic field or something like that. I got some pics that i couldnt upload if anyone can help. Im even thinking the AFM might not be working properly, but how could i test for that tho??

But do you guarantee that they all work fine? Why are you selling them if you dont mind me asking? email [email protected]

Except that you would need an extra 2 to make it work... Have they been flow tested and/or cleaned? If not would you take $220