The Dan

the oil in the inlet is a pretty normal thing with the skylines. don't let them tell you your engine is rooted before you have a compression test, both wet and dry and a leak down test. If they feed you any crap then ask them to prove it...any good mechanic will be able to back up their statements with facts. when you say transfer case, do you have a GTR or something? another thing is with the oil pressure, it should be 25 PSI at idle 42 PSI at 3000 RPM and 50 PSI at 6000 RPM. This is according to the engine manual. If they give it to you in bar then it will be something like 1.8 bar idle, 3 bar at 3000 and 3.5 bar at 6000. these bar figures are only rough estimates off the top of my head.

I was under the impression the the spigot bush or bearing was always spinning whether clutch is engaged or disengaged. It should be something like your carrier bearing (throwout). Don't let people fool you coz if you smash one of these and you are behind someone at the lights, bang...clutch engages and you go flying into the person in front. Dunno bout you but that seems fairly serious to me. Spigot bush or bearing is only a few dollars. Labour on remove and refit G/box should only be around $300. That's not being friendly either. Some will be cheaper. You should preplace the clutch while doing any of this work unless the plate is 6 months old or less.

Sorry I almost forgot. The head gasket thing will usually occur on an ineffective flame front which causes pitting on the metal ring on the head gasket which seals the bore. This pitting eventually wears through that ring and causes the gasket to blow. I would have to see the gasket or a very high quality photo to tell you why it blew. This is not the only reason why they blow of course but is a common one.

You can check timing using a test light if it is a points distributor ignition. Also another way you could do it is by ear. Race the engine to about 2 grand and turn the distributor very slowly from its origin left and right. I cannot stress enough that it must be done slowly and very small amounts. Also be VERY careful you don't go too far and if you do, keep your head away from the throttle body coz it will backfire. Try to keep it within it's limits. You should be able to hear the engine it will bog down if it is too retarded and it will ping slightly if too far advanced. Whichever way you should be able to get the extremes on both sides of perfect. Just set it somewhere in between those points. Also you could get piston 1 on compression stroke at top dead centre and mark the crank pulley with some whiteout where the needle points. Then with the timing light you can get a fair indication of where the timing is. Usually about 1 cm from that point will be around 7 - 10 degrees. Advanced will increase the idle. Retarded will decrease it. Also make sure that if it is EFI you don't have to have a check connector earthed or something like that. Usually it'll be a little black box with diagnosis or something similar written on it. If it is electronic ignition you'll find that it will have that setup. For info on the points test light method you'll have to pm me. I don't want to explain it unless I have to.

This oil is usually normal when running higher amounts of boost. You get what is called blowby. The only real way to prevent it is to a: run lower boost or b: get an oil catch can fitted. It could also be an indication that your rings are on their way out as this allows more crankcase pressure which results in blowby. It really depends on the amount. Coke bottle cap full = normal blowby Half a litre = rings buggered

But could you not also argue that an EBC is a form of Boost Limiter. As for EPA, you could also argue that due to modern ECU fuel mapping that your emission levels would be well within their legal limits, as these maps are integrated into boost levels up to and over the boost cut in the standard ECU, for that type of car and that all of your emission control devices are still fitted to the vehicle.

My RB20 has wires coming out from here and it is not an auto. Dunno where you got that auto info from.

Any of them wanna follow me like that... I won't be so nice to speed away. I will get out a flog the occupants of the offending vehicle until they produce their ID. ENGLISH MUTHA F**KA, DO YOU SPEAK IT?

What engine do you have. If it is a RB26DETT then I thought they came standard with electronic boost control of some sort. Not sure but would be worth finding out.

That's alright, you could just tell the judge that the guy in the hilux somehow jumped from his moving vehicle to your moving vehicle and pushed his foot onto yours in an act to make you speed. I think you'll get off then.

I think for a Torana driver she got let off pretty lightly. She should be locked up on that point alone. More to the point though. It's a stupid thing to be racing anyway. Especially when they have young ones in the car. What kind of example are they sending to their kids. They will grow up thinking it is ok. I don't think they should have their kids taken from them, just ask yourself, would you want your kids to be taken from you for ANY reason. Sure they need to be taught a lesson but there is another way. The media may have blown it out of proportion somewhat don't forget. I am not condoning their activities but we should keep an open mind. Even racing up to the speed limit can be dangerous. You might be too busy concentrating on the other car to notice the school kid crossing late. It only takes a split second for something to go terribly wrong and I think that bogan woman just can't see the bigger picture and the consequences they hold. We could all sit here and say "DON'T SPEED" but we all know we will. We could all sit here and say "DON'T RACE" but we all know we will. Just be careful out there coz you never know what may happen.

I've seen it driving around brissy on thursday nights near Milton. Is definately not marked. Is definately a cop and sounds like they got a bigger cam in it too.

I don't think the 33's had oil cooling for the engine. So no. The canister you speak of is probably the purge canister. It should be black in colour and have two vacuum hoses coming off it. All it does is store fuel vapours when you switch the engine off and return vapours when you start again. It is a pollution control device. With the tyres, your absolute best option is to rotate every 5 thousand, mainly due to the negative camber they run. Take your car to a tyre shop and get them to flip the tyres over. This way you'll be using all rubber at all times during the tyres life. They will thank you for it one day when you need traction. Next best thing is to just go straight form front to back. I would still do them every 5 thou but it's up to you. Another thing is to be careful who you take your car to. Not all tyre shops will be capable of jacking up your import safely. They will most probably go for the diff centre at the back. Kick him in the head if he does this. (no, seriously....kick him in the head). Make sure they jack it up from the very front of the chassis rail as this is the strongest point of the chassis rail. Further down the rail towards the back and you'll find it gets weaker and WILL bend. The rear needs to be jacked from the main diff crossmember, it should be just in front of the rear wheel.

make sure when you cut the wire you put a switch in there so that you don't stuff the Hicas diagnostic mode exit procedure. Plus it's cool to have the limiter on a switch. Limiter goes off, limiter goes on, limiter goes off, limiter goes on, limiter goes *crack*.....oh sh1t!

1:) brake bias is set to around 70% front 30% rear - is more like 85 - 15 2:) 7 - Crack the bleed open. Quickly pump the brake pedal a few times to get the old fluid flowing out - Not a good idea to pump the pedal quickly as you can draw the seal over the crap sitting in the cylinder which will tear the seal. Better to pump slowly and do only half pumps. 3:) This isnt the only or best way to do it - It is pretty much the best way to do it. (except for the quick pump thing) 4:) what grade of oil is best for the diff in a r33 gts? - Probably LSX90 or something equivalent. Maybe different though as it is a viscous LSD 5:) Yes you should start at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder first, so rear right first - This is not always the case. it depends on how the proportioning valve is set up. To acurately determine which one you have to trace each one back and do the longest line first, then next shortest and so on. Also some cars are set up left different system from right and some are set at diagonals. 6:) O2 sensor you can test with an oscilliscope 7:) Brake lines - where the join into a high pressure fitting, bend the line gently to check for cracks in the outer casing. If none throughout the whole line, no need to replace. 8:) Oil changes every 10 thou for a GTS, 5 thou for a Turbo model. Spark plugs every 15 - 20 thou for standards or 100 thou for Platinums or Iridiums Brake Fluid every 24 months regardless of kms. Coolant every 24 months regardless of kms. Diff oil every 50 thou. G/Box oil every 50 thou. Heater hoses and radiator hoses at 100 thou. Do immediately if not already done. If not sure- do anyway- it could cost you an engine if one blows- also helps to do radiator cap and thermostat with rad hoses. Brake pads - when they get to 2mm thick not including the metal back plate. Machine discs with pad changes to ensure proper bedding of pads. Air filter every 20 thou depending on conditions. every 10-15 thou for constant city driving. Fuel Filter every 20 thou depending on conditions. every 10-15 thou for constant city driving. Timing Belt every 100 thou unless xtreme driver then do every 60 thou. Plus do cam and crank seals with Timing belt. Is good to run an engine flush (preferably wynns engine flush) every second oil change as this will help keep your lifters healthy. Fuel lines every 100 thou or when surface cracks appear. Throttle body clean with air filter (do not use carby clean as this will wreck your TPS) spray throttle body cleaner onto a rag and wipe the throttle body clean. Check all induction hoses at every service interval. Check tyre condition at every 5 thou intervals + rotate and balance and have wheel alignment checked. (you'll get 50 thousands outta your tyres minus burnouts). Drive belts should be checked for condition every service but usually changed every 40 thou or so. Sick of typing now so that should be all. I may have forgotten something but that should be all the majors and most of the minors.

They also got another one with plates "HEAT"

I did exactly this. The coppa was totally against the law. I had DOT read it exactly word for word over the phone to me and I was in the right. They still sent the letter back saying they are proceding with the penalty. The reason for the fine was failure to fit number plates supplied. I have 24 hours. However, because I am a mechanic the coppa said that I had ample opportunity to fit them beforehand. When I questioned why he gets the right to judge whether I have ample time or not, or in fact, where he gets the right to add his little clause, the Senior Srgnt says that it is up to the officer who writes the ticket. DOT said he is full of sh1t and it will get thrown out of court. However, they still persue it coz they know it is an inconvenience for me to get a day off work to go to court. Well screw them coz I'm sueing for loss of pay.

We got defected once coming out of Milton. Copped it sweet coz we had to. Drive away quietly. Next we hear this flapping noise coming from the front of the car. The stupid cop has left the book of defect stickers on the window wiper. We spent the next 2 hours defecting all the local parked police cars. lol. Nearly got caught once but when he saw what we were doing he just laughed as we ran off.

Ms PSI of course

We had a bloke come into work telling us he had a craked head. I said "sure we can fix it for you but I wanna do some tests first". He said ok. I asked him who told him about the cracked head and he told me that the car overheated and water was leaking inside the car. So he called RACQ and the guy came out, identified the leak in the heater core and re-routed the heater hose back onto itself. Then he said the guy told him that because it got hot that he would have cracked the head. So I put the gas analyser onto the radiator and it read no gases. I did a teekay test and still nothing. I did a cooling system pressure build test and a normal pressure test and still good. I showed the guy everything I did and explained everything in full. It took 10 minutes. This is obviously not the first time I have heard this type of thing about RACQ. And I am allowed to say it as it is actual statements from customers. My advice to anyone is. They have a hard job anyway so I'm not knocking them for their methods but don't believe everything they tell you. Always get a second opinion unless you know and trust the mechanic working on your car. ie. Lady came to us in tears coz she couldn't afford the engine rebuild she was told she would need by them (she had called them up coz her engine was making a funny noise). They told her the bearings were gone. It turned out to be a sticky hydraulic lifter which we fixed by doing an oil flush and oil change.

However I only condone speeding to save my girlfriends life. Who knows what neanderthal ford drivers are capable of.

hahaha, I raced a bunch of XR8's the same. They kept trying to block me in and my missus was getting scared so she gave me permission to lose them. I think the dents you are referring to would be from a tyre iron I threw at him. I thought I'd ad some value to his heap of crap. That is of course if it's the same one. They tried to follow me all the way into brisbane but got pulled up by traffic for speeding coz I knew the cops were there and the wanks didn't...hahahahaha.

Anyone in Brissy can take their imports to us at Midas Wooloongabba. I know the skylines back to front and won't give you any bullsh1t. We will show you everything we find and explain what it means and what it costs. You get a full written report and quote. All our work has a nationwide gaurantee. We have all state of the art equipment for minor tuning (not dyno or course). Sorry for the plug guys. ....but if you want somewhere to take your import, that is it. I will look after it.

Sorry, I was unaware that absolutely everyone was completely computer illiterate. I had all three as an ISO image you could just burn to CD with any of your favourite burner programs. But looks like that has been chopped. I go to all the effort and for nothing.

ok then well seeing as though so many people are having problems. I have added a password to each server. PASSWORD IS SKYLINE