Rayage

I think a EBC or a bleed valve will help a little with low-end response. That's what I found with my bleeder. The bleed valve reduces wastegate creep so boost builds slightly faster. Not a world of difference but every little bit helps I guess.

Hello, and welcome to R32 GTSt ownership. I think the flatness or lack of torque you are feeling is normal. Unfortunately, the RB20DET does not produce much torque below 3000RPM. A less restrictive exhaust will only make the flatness more evident. I have a 92 R32 GTSt with a pod filter and a 3" exhaust from the turbo back. It is pretty gutless from below 3000RPM. I have to slip it from around 2500RPM if I wanna move off from the lights with any decent pick-up. Any less than that, and I'll need a whole lot more revs in first gear to get up to speed. This is simply just to accelerate at a pace that most general light vehicles can do i.e. your lancers and festivas. Yes, that's right... in 1st gear, regular N/A light vehicles will make mince meat of you under general commuting. Once you're into 2nd tho, and the engine has more load on and it's producing more boost, then you'll make up the difference easily. I think this is just something you'll have to accept. I don't think the quoted 0-100km/h times and 1/4 mile times are incorrect. Put some revs onboard and side-step the clutch and you will rocket off the line. The RB20DET is, unfortunately, a little inadequate as a regular commuter. Luckily the R32 GTSt makes up for it when you run it harder (around twisty roads). And then there's always the RB25DET conversion, if the lack of torque aggrevates you.

Are your headlights the projector style headlights?

Hey what colour is the car? If it's gun metal grey I'd be interested in the stock rear wing. Also, are your headlights the projector style lights? Do you still have the stock gear knob too? Whereabouts in Melb are you located?

I am relieved to report that the problem is a faulty fan clutch. It turns out the whirring noise is the fan over-spinning, since the clutch won't fully disengage. Luckily the fan is still in good condition, despite having noticeable fractures on the body of the fan. The blades themselves are fine, tho.

Will let you guys know once I take it to my mech. It could very well be that DRFTR33, cos it only started happening in the last 300-odd km. It was perfectly fine for the other 3000kms+ after the timing belt was changed.

Thanks for the help fellas. I will get it checked ASAP. The belt is new and it's only been on for 3500km. I hope I don't have to chuck it cos it's been over-tightened.

Hi All, I have a strange noise that's developed over the past coupla weeks and I dunno what it is. It's like a whirring noise (sounds like a belt or a bearing) and it's coming from the front of the engine. I tried locating the source, but it's kinda a bit hard cos it's originating from the front where all the belts are. My best guess is it's coming from behind the timing belt cover. The whirring noise only happens when I rev the engine. It does it while I'm stationary and in neutral. It gets louder the harder I rev the engine. The timing belt has been replaced recently (about 3500km ago) and the idler and tensioner bearing has been replaced also (about 2500km ago). I don't know what it could be but I'm fairly concerned, since the source of the noise seems to be from behind the timing belt cover. Luckily I don't drive my car too often these days (too busy) so it only gets driven 2 or 3 times a week. I'll be getting checked out ASAP, but the earliest I can do it is this Saturday coming up. I thought I'd throw something here to see if anyone may know what's up... Cheers

Not too sure how it started for me. The first car to really grab my attention (aside from the obvious supercars at the time, which were also pipe dreams) was the 300ZX about 8 years ago. And from there I simply got interested in cars. I was hanging out for Rexes, cos at the time, they and the S14s were the 'affordable' Aus-delivered Jap pocket rockets. Then the import scene exploded. I was into the 33s, 32s, back to 33s, back to 32s, and the 34s were still out of reach at the time. My friend bought a R33 GTS25t and he let me have a drive in it. I fell in love with the turbo feel. I loved how smooth, free-revving, and how unburstable the straght six felt. The whole Turbo Straight 6 RWD layout just seemed so right to me. The handling, altho short of scintilating, was lively, responsive and fun. I couldn't afford a R33 (in the year I wanted) when I finally got my Skyline. I settled for a R32 GTS-t, and although it doesn't have the low-down torque of the 2.5L turbo, it still felt characteristically like a Skyline. Also, there is something about those stove-top / afterburner tail lights. Especially at night. I still find myself trailing other Skylines just to gaze in awe of them..

Are you selling your rims? If so, got pix and dimensions F/R? Also, how's the condition on the front windscreen seals?

My mum didn't understand why I'd lay down >$15k for a 12 y.o. car, but she didn't stop me cos she knows I like cars. She says the usual shit that most (older) women say when they don't understand the finer qualities of the car i.e. it's too loud, it's two low, it's only got 2 doors, it's nauseating to sit in (good ol' boost)... My dad had it better than me when he was my age. He drove a brand new RA22 Celica when he finished Uni . I'm driving a 12 y.o. car in comparison. But he also understands that I'm into cars . I simply wanted something to identify my youth with when I'm much older. The Skyline was the only thing worthy. So I bought one.

Congrats on the purchase. Pity it's auto tho, but nice never-the-less. I'm curious as to how they fitted the high-center-rear brake light, cos AFAIK a GTR wing doesn't come with it. I have a GTR replica bar sitting in my shed atm (plastic as far as I can tell)... makes me want to put it back on, but it'll scrape the hell outta everything (car is lowered slightly).

2.65L V8 Turbo actually and they run ~40 inches (of mercury) of boost (not PSI), which I'm told is roughly 5 PSI of boost. As for Indy and CART, there's IRL and there's the Champ Car world series. Two different series with different cars and engine rules. IRL run strictly on oval courses, tho. There's a bit of history between IRL and Champ Car.. all I know is that CART was formed as a breakaway series from IRL cos they couldn't agree on some shit.

Oh man... reading this only makes me want to convert my R32 GTS-t. What exactly do you need part-wise to do a complete conversion? I've simply assumed that you need the R33 RB25DET, ECU, loom, R33 gearbox, center shaft, rear diff? Is there anything else I'm missing? Also, since the RB25DET is slightly taller than a RB20DET on the standard mounts, is it simply easier (or better) to leave the mounts as they are or to modify them to get the engine to sit lower?

Hey mate sorry to hear your loss Dunno if you remember, but I met you several months ago when you were still selling your car... Glad to hear that you're okay. Make sure you get yourself checked out tho... what appears to be relatively minor injuries now may develop into impairing or debilitating injuries several years from now... I just hope your friend has the decency to make up for what he's just done... I make it perfectly clear to anyone who drives my car (close friends included) that if they bend it I want a new one equal to the value of the car that I bought it for... Also I think it's very bad form that your friend asked to have a drive and he did not alert you to the fact hat he lost his license. Insurance and reimbursement aside, I think that constitutes as a serious breach of trust...

Yea it's been rounded off. That sounds like a good idea; I'll suggest it the next time I see my mech.

Hi, I was wondering if someone could do be a favour and take a picture of a stock RB20DET turbo dump/down pipe for me? It's been nagging me ever since I got my car whether the dump pipe is stock or not.... the cat and exhaust are 3" but the ex-owner could not confirm if the dump pipe was 3" too... I've had a look at it and it looks about the same size as the pipe leading to the cat (which looks 3")... :confused: Cheers, Rayage

Hi, I have an interesting problem here... the drain plug on my gearbox is rooted. That is, it's impossible to get a wrench of any sorts on it. So, short of unbolting the gearbox and dropping it down, is there any other way of getting the plug undone? At the moment, 2nd gear crunches when engaging it from 1st. This only occurs from a cold start. Once the gearbox oil warms up, it's okay. But for now, I have to be very slow on the 1st -> 2nd gear changes when the car is cold. Any suggestions or help would be appreciated. Cheers, Rayage Edit: It could be the filler plug. Not sure which one. This is according to my mech. Either way, I can't change the gearbox oil.

Hey mate, I'm after the Idler bearing. I'm in Victoria. PM me for my postage details. Cheers

Thanks fellas. I think I will give the earthing kit a try. I actually cleaned out the AFM 2 months ago followed by 100000km service. I'll try cleaning it again, but I hope the earthing kit does the trick... I've noticed that sometimes when I step on the brakes my stereo cuts out for a brief moment...

Hi, Aside from the (dubious) performance gains, I was told by a friend that an earthing kit can help with idling? I was also told that it can also help with the electrics in the car... This friend of mine has installed one in his 180SX and has found that all his electrics and engine idling have improved... Can anyone with an earthing kit installed provide some experiences on whether this is the case?

First ride and drive in a 'line was in a friend's largely-stock 33 GTS-t. I was really impressed with the way the turbo 6 delivered it's power. It felt almost like a NA engine with a whallop at the top-end. I had been in and driven a modded 180SX before driving my friend's 'line. But there was something about the 'line that I liked and now I have my own ; albeit mine's a 32...

I paid $15.5k for my 92 GTS-t. The market value for one is about $13k - $14.5k, so I paid a little bit more but got quite a number of goodies with it. Although it's not perfect I must say; there are a number of things that need fixing tho (nothing major, yet , thankfully). I currently have 3rd party property insurance, which is $399 through Just Cars. I'm still a little torn about whether I should go to full-comp through Shannons or leave it as 3rd party property (since I still don't believe in paying ~$2k per annum on insurance for a 12 year old car). I dunno about convincing your dad tho... it really is up to you to demonstrate to him that you can handle a car responsibly. You also have to consider the power-to-weight ratio legality, since not all R32 GTS-ts are 'legal' for P platers (the later model ones are since they are heavier, so I'm told... but you'd better research this). Funkymonkey is correct in saying a GTS isn't any less dangerous than a GTS-t. Just that one has more power than the other stock for stock. And one doesn't necessarily deliver it's power in the most linear of fashion, too (so you'll have to be watchful of how you flex your right foot - esp. in the wet). Let's be objective here, all cars are dangerous if you drive recklessly or beyond the abilities of yourself or the car. I can't really suggest what is a good first car, tho, since everybody's abilities are different. But generally, I personally wouldn't recommend a turbo car as a first car for a (soon-to-be) P plater (which I presume you are judging by your age). Your first car will be dictated by what you can afford to buy and run. Particularly the 'run' aspect. You'll have to budget some money to fix up all the little things (and perhaps significant things, like a timing belt change). Personally, I think you should sit down and have a good objective think about what you will be getting yourself into if you get a turbo car. You'll have to factor in: maintenace cost, insurance cost, copbait (P plater), how good your nerves are :headspin: since you'll proly be paranoid about leaving your car anywhere else except at home, how skilled you are at driving (be honest... I drove for 4 years on FWD cars on both manual and auto and the difference between FWD and RWD is like night and day, and more so in the wet), petrol cost, how responsible you are (will you TLGP every car you see?). You gotta understand that owning a turbo car or any sports car isn't so much about ownership but a responsiblity you undertake. It's not just a box/shell with four wheels that goes faster than most other boxes/shells with four wheels.

If you're going to do a turbo conversion, you may as well just get a GTS-t now, since the cost to convert to one (plus value of the car) will probably come out more than an original GTS-t. I'm not sure how much a non-turbo R32 GTS goes for but a RB20DET on it's own costs ~$1k based on what I've seen in the For Sale forum. A straight bolt-on isn't going to turn a RB20DE into a genuine RB20DET. The turbo isn't the only difference (different compression ratio hence piston work or new pistons, less oil runners?, you'll need new manifolds for the turbo). Then you have to consider the rest of the drivetrain, brakes, labour cost and getting it engineered. If you are set on turbo performance, then I say "Turbo or nothing". You will save heaps if you can be patient. It's just a matter of whether you want to be patient or not. The difference in insurance for turbo vs. non-turbo isn't that great, so it's not really an issue. About the only issue (according to your age) is if you get a GTS-t you will get hassled by cops (irrespective of power-to-weight legalities, you will still get hassled). I bought my GTS-t off a P-Plater and one of the reasons for his sale was he was sicked of being hassled by cops. I'm so glad I didn't get a turbo Skyline until now.. The allure of owning a Skyline at that age is very tempting (I know, I wanted one but couldn't afford it at the time). I sometimes regret not having one back then, purely for the cool (wank) factor :headspin:, but each time I sit into my car I have no regrets.

Yea I expected it to do that... but not to the point of stalling. Full-on the tacho needle dropped to the first little notch above 0rpm when I turned it on. And once the aircon is on, I would've expected it to hold idle after the idle stepper kicks in. But it rises and dips from anywhere between 500rpm and 1000rpm.