luckydip

In most states u need a CAMS C3 or National rally licence to warrant the state authorities issue conditional reg to drive car on road to go to and from events and places of repair. Every state is different.....please enquire at home state. NOTE: a vehicle imported as a "rally" car is viewed much more favourably for conditional reg than a car imported as a "race" car. And yes there is a difference as I have imported cars as both plus as the old 15 year rule.

Want to go motor racing at a reasonable price without knocking your good car around??? Imported as a RALLY car. Eligible for "conditional or special" reg in local state. CAN NEVER FULL ROAD REG.....so please don't ask. 1991 R32 GTS-t, man, black. 166,000 kms - body in V good condition with no signs of rust or previous damage. No sunroof. Engine is strong - no smoke on startup or under load. Transmission and drive train excellent. * 17 x 7 & 8" sparco style wheels * Apexi blue adj shocks (not the rock hard jap type) "C" ring type * 3" exhaust * Blitz boost gauge * Racaro driver seat All gauges, elect windows, locking,lights and other ancillaries work fine. A/C gassed and working. Drives great. a base car to build on for circuit racing, club car or tarmac rallies. $7,500.00 I have 2 other R32's. One I race in Targa (732#) and one for circuit. This car was ordered for someone else who couldn't come up with the money and now surplus to needs. Freight back to Melb will be deducted from price on purchase. BUT PLEASE NO TIME WASTERS. Check with local authorities re rally reg before you inquire further. email to [email protected] or 0417 518 660 KERRY

Bump

Going to be used in race car....nothing worse than the leather coming away after a few races. If you think OK I'll take chance. PM me details for money

WANTED: R32 GTS T front bar support, I will pay freight. $100 6 x wheel nuts....don't ask. $10 [email protected] or SMS 0417 518 660

Pics for me too pls. If they are the ones on your thread....very hard to see, can you send me some direct to: [email protected] Thanks

Still got steering wheel? Will buy if OK. Pics to [email protected]

Need front bar support - can you get price of freight to Tas. And interested in wheels. can you send pic of wheels to: [email protected] Kerry

Do you have the induction pipe that goes into the cast alloy pipe that feeds into throttle body. It is black steel - about 45 cm - next to p'steer fluid canister - 60mm dia? Email me on [email protected] Thanks

I will take steering wheel if you still have it, as long as reasonable OK. email me on [email protected]

Any condition as only need tacho. Pay up to $120 plus post Email me on [email protected] or ph 0417518660

Interested in brake set-up. It should fit under fit under standard 16" rims - ? Confirm disc dia?

will buy wheels and rear bar, only thing is, it has to go to Launceston in Tassie. I will pay freight - can you get some prices. You will need to know the cubic size of altogether. at best case they can be shipped to Melb - I have contact there. Interested? SMS me on 0417518660 or PM me.

Interested. What is wire dia and free length of both?

Thanks guys We are going to try taking the whole lot out from the bottom - box and all on AFL grand final weekend (my teams out so I don't give a s@#^ who wins) If there is anyone eles out there who have done it this way...I'll like input.

Thanks blind elk. By the sounds of it you took out motor and left gearbox in car? I have got access to a hoist.

I'm about to do a engine/gearbox in and out job on a R32 Gts-t. Q1. Can the engine and gearbox come out TOGETHER as one unit? Q2. Has anyone tried dropping the both out THROUGH THE BOTTOM still connected to crossmember and suspension? If you have how does it compare with out through the top? Thanks

If its the same as a R32 pump - i had same prob after taking out/putting back pump and canister. Depends exactly where leak is, the pump has two high pressure lines on top and large dia low pressure feed/suction line on botton facing back towards inner guard. Clean all areas well (high pressure/degreaser or both)....take car for run....use small mirror to locate leak. If leaking out of HP banjo fittings - then the copper washers may need replacing (2 on each pipe). Other solutions if this doesnt work. If leak on bottom LP hose - then hose maybe perished on the inside and they weep out around the clamp fitting - or the clamp may need replacing/tightening or both. I had multipul leaks from all spots after install...took a while to sort them all out. Also found that the small LP hoses all leaked when disturbed. Probablly caused because hoses old and the twin wire clamps never seem to locate exactly back in same spot....hence leaks.. Suggest buy new hoses (or aftermarket hose) and GOOD QUAL worm clamps. Best of Luck

Need passenger side front mud flap, and ONE stock R32 GTS wheel (but will look at buying more than 1 if need be). Also same side inner plastic guard (wheel arch). Need urgent as racing on 4th Sept. Call me on 0417 518 660 (Kerry) or [email protected]

Thanks for reply....reason I didn't get back was because I have been working on the prob. Rang local expert on P'steer and he said first up pump buggered (typical of "experts" replace first...then have a think about it). Explained tried 2 pumps then he suggested: 1. jack up car 2. With engine off - turn steering back and forth SLOWLY 5 times 3. Try again. Expert said P'steer system is SELF PRIMING and that one of the HP hoses is a return line. Withthis in mind I also cracked both hoses and let foamy fluid out (with engine off). Tried again and it WORKED!!!!! No noise. Supports your theory - thanks On HICAS - the 2 lines going to the rear rack don't appear to be re-circulating (no return line?) AND there are 2 bleed nipples on the rear rack. IF the HICAS light comes on, there may be air in the rear lines. A good bleed may fix all those flashing HICAS lights. Thanks for reply....it was my first thread. __________________ This is before I wacked the cliff....

Sorry guys...was replying to my thread under different forum (general Auto..). But info may be of help.

Thanks for replies....reason I didn't get back was because I have been working on the prob. Rang local expert on P'steer and he said first up pump buggered (typical of "experts" replace first...then have a think about it). Explained tried 2 pumps then he suggested: 1. jack up car 2. With engine off - turn steering back and forth SLOWLY 5 times 3. Try again. Expert said P'steer system is SELF PRIMING and that one of the HP hoses is a return line. Withthis in mind I also cracked both hoses and let foamy fluid out (with engine off). Tried again and it WORKED!!!!! No noise. On HICAS - the 2 lines going to the rear rack don't appear to be re-circulating (no return line?) AND there are 2 bleed nipples on the rear rack. IF the HICAS light comes on, there may be air in the rear lines. A good bleed may fix all those flashing HICAS lights. Thanks for replies....it was my first thread.

R32 GTSt. After taking off my perfectly good & working steering pump to fix some other probs (included was replacing some of the low pressure power steer return lines), the pump on starting the engine made a GRINDING NOISE like the pump was running dry. I tried turning the wheels from lock to lock and made sure the resevior was full - but didn't help. I did notice the fluid was foamy in the resevoir. Is this an air lock prob? How do I bleed the system? Are both the HP hoses on top of the pump, delivering fluid, or is one a return line? HELP