OREX

Just like the others say, HPI said a little while back it could easily pump 1050-1100ps. Good for astronauts. Do you have one/considering buying one? Cos I have a HKS T51R SPL up for grabs, smaller and cheaper and more realistic.

thanks fellas- just so i know when I'm being ripped off. seems weird that every mechanic said different things needed replacement. all i was told was there may be a big rubber seal on the back of the 'box that may be damaged-like an $80 gasket, and the flywheel machining was $40-$50. So $450-ish would be the max I'd like to pay for a good job.

*SORRY IF THIS IS IN WRONG SECTION* I've blown my clutch apart and I'm waiting for a new one via post. I've been quoted very different prices to fit it from $300-$900 plus GST! Some people have quoted me over $100 just for gearbox oil, then another $88 for a rubber seal around the gearbox, which other workshops haven't quoted me for. Has anyone replaced theirs at a "friendly" price. I'm in Melbourne but I still want to know what others have been charged. Thanks guys. *I also need a new coolant temperature sensor-pm me if you have a spare* *Selling my T51R*

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Very urgent sale gentlemen. Open to reasonable offers.

I have a very low km HKS T51R, if you don't know what it is you probably don't need it. It's a V-Band with a custom made, unknown exhaust manifold flange and a stainless steel dump pipe. Polished compressor cover. Will need specific oil and water plugs and manifold made up to suit your application. This is the genuine "King Kong" of turbochargers. Serious enquiries only please guys. I don't have photos, but you should be able to find pics on the net. Would prefer Vic buyers, but will post interstate at your expense. Asking a very reasonable $4,800. This is a rare unit that will not dissapoint GTR owners. I am on slow dial-up so if you need to contact me please call George on 0411 453 770 or leave me a pm. Thanks guys.

does it have the brown and orange wires on the back of the tach? the "monster" ones need these wires cut accordingly to calibrate them for 4,6 or 8 cylinder applications. That's one suggestion. IF that's not it re-post. Cheers.

twin HKS GT2540R's, but that's just what i think would be nice and tractable for a track car with your mods-but if you were going all out i wouldn't hesitate twin HKS 3037's-big power.

that's a hard one, 500hp+low mount+ stock looking? i think maybe you should raise your middle finger to the law! a 500hp motor is easier with a big single on a high manifold, but the first option i can think of is the HKS 3037 with internal gate, which may be hard to find.

my remote filter has a barbed fitting plugged up when you buy it. all i did was take the barbed plug out and screw in an autometer brass attatchment which fit 100%, and there was already a rubber grommet near the brake master and near the inlet plenum. if that doesn't apply to your filter then try PHATR32's method.

try hks.com.au and email them for your application. specific HKS gear is getting hard to find in melbourne's western suburbs, which i now know.

when you changed your boost controller did you change ALL hoses? coz mine did the same thing once with a cracked hose on the underside, so i only found it once half the motor was on the drive way. solved my problem. post again with results and anything else you know of so we can all help.

that looks perfect, provided the core is thicker than 25mm/1inch. where's that from-DAMN good price!

I have one of these cars and i've had problems with "shuddering" from my bov needing adjustment, as it's not a plumb-back, but that may not be the problem. if there's anything else you can post maybe we can help more.

i agree with evan. everything is relative to each other on these cars, so you change one thing and then you need to change another and before you know it you've spent too much! If you can afford an intercooler of 600x300 size go for it, and a "cheap" boost controller will suffice. Hopefully you have taken care of the intake side of things, so you're all set. As for a boost guage they are a good idea to watch the motor's progress and lets you know if there's a problem.

for what car?

cool thanks, i'll try them all-didn't see an ABS fuse though-but it was late late. and what's the AWD reservoir in the back??

Anyone?

BUY MY SEAT! pm me your e-mail address and i'll send you an offer you can't refuse!

First off sorry if this the wrong section. A week ago in my R32 GTS4 the ABS light on the dash went on and stays on all the time now when in 4WD. When i flick the switch into 2WD the light goes off. The brakes work fine, no noise, no fade and then switch back to 4WD and the light goes on again. Does ABS only work in 4WD? Is there something wrong with the ABS system? I can't read Japanese to check the fuses. Anyone know what's going on? Thanks in advance. :confused:

Hell yeah i wanna see one in action. friend has an XR6T with higher boost, bigger cooler, exhaust and intake and this thing chews balls! huge power response reminded me of my old internal gate HKS 3037. buy one! buy two!!

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BRIGHT RED OBX SEAT-$200 Single only. Never used. Black leatherette wear patches. NOT RECLINEABLE. Looking for $200. Have a pic but don't know how to post. PM me for photo. I'm in Melbourne's western suburbs.

yeah you're right the voltage on the RB20 AFM is lower than a Z32 unit. something like the impedence (ohms) of the afm being lower makes them melt internally when you wind up massive power. some crap like that. steer clear of them.

that is truly unacceptable! i suppose you can't prove it was in perfect condition coz i can't see customs paying for it. best way to tell if it's truly f'd is to cover the pipe on one end tank and pour water down the other end, filling the cooler with water. if any water leaks out then you have a crack which may be repairable from radiator specialists (yellow pages). otherwise you're stuck with a busted up intercooler. good luck with that, you have my sympathy. nice cooler too