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Everything posted by PHATR32
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Rb26dett Rebuild For Up To 350kw Atw....whats Needed?
PHATR32 replied to nsta's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
also, speaking of head gaskets, are the stock ones goof enough to support 400kw? or do we need a metal one? -
Rb26dett Rebuild For Up To 350kw Atw....whats Needed?
PHATR32 replied to nsta's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
full gasket kit from justjap is $350, about $70 cheaper than cost +10% at nissan. i highly reccomend you change your valve guides (a broken guide caused my broken engine) anyone know of any aftermarket guides? at a resonable price? thanks -
Rb26dett Rebuild For Up To 350kw Atw....whats Needed?
PHATR32 replied to nsta's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
hey mate, im in your exact same position, with the same engine etc etc. so far ive found that CP pistons are more popular than the weiseco pistons (among the engine builders etc), so ill be using those. Also ill be using ACL bearings, a normal water pump (n1's arnt good for daily driving) and a N1 oil pump. ive been told the stock rods are good for 400rwkw, so ill be keeping those. Only question is does anyone know where i can find some cheap CP pistons?? steve -
Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift
PHATR32 replied to Sydneykid's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
duncan, you mensioned using a braided hose, can we use a oil/heat proof rubber instead? can the braided hose get flattened easily incase there are clearance issues? ie have the hose sitting in an oval shape instead of round? thanks fellas. steve -
sweet, thanks for the advice guys. I only asked about the rods cause the the package looks like a good deal. I highly doubt ill be going anywhere near 400kw anytime soon, but i figured id get the bottom end sorted while its all apart. ill be doing the oil mods, bearings and water pump. the engine is out of a 95 r33 gtr so the crank and oil pump should be ok. thanks again, steve
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you can easily get the rb26 sump modified i.e have the front diff casing removed and the holes filled in. its been done to my mates rb26 when we installed it into his r34 gtt. steve
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Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift
PHATR32 replied to Sydneykid's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
hey does anyone have pics of the setup mensioned up top? the ol 26 is out so i might as well do it...... -
hi guys, just spent the past 3 hours reading through the 36 pages of search results for forged pistons, and i found the following post http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ra...=forged+pistons from what i read in a lot of the posts, it looks like CP pistons are the way to go, but has anyone had any experiance with the rods the trader is selling? i gotta rebuild my rb26 (on a budget), so im sourcing a lot of the parts on my own, and doing most of the building my self (cept the machine work), and the deal he is doing looks to be pretty good. anyone had any experiance with those rods?? you can pm me if you dont wanna post up anything bad. anyone have any better deals on pistons/rods etc etc?? thanks, Steve
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Loud Tapping Noise From Top Of Engine - Diagnosed!
PHATR32 replied to PHATR32's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
yep, it was definetly a guide that had snapped off. the other was cracked. i guess a full rebuild is in order steve -
Loud Tapping Noise From Top Of Engine - Diagnosed!
PHATR32 replied to PHATR32's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
im thinking the valve guide. that said, the broken bit is steel cause its magnetic. ill pop the valves off on that cylinder and take a look. steve -
Loud Tapping Noise From Top Of Engine - Diagnosed!
PHATR32 replied to PHATR32's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
well i managed to pull teh head of today and found some bits of metal in the cylinder! the piston is dented and has small bits of steel fused to it, and the head it self is really dented and also had a large chunk fused to it. I have no idea where it would have come from!!!!! ive driven it around for almost 2 years with out opening it, so im thinking it either was stuck in the piping and came loose, or its a part of the intake it self (or there abouts). either way the head is f**ked, and the piston is f**ked. what worries me is if the blocked is screwed. i dont know if the pics show much but there are tiny verticle scratches going down the wall, although when i run my nail across them i cant feel them. the chunks of metal look roundish (like a tube), and theres nothing stuck in the cat etc. where to now??? the money is extremely limited, and ill be looking at rebuilding it back to stock, as i cant afford forgies etc etc. (as much as id love to get some) good old gtr's. you gotta love em.......... steve -
great!! its gonna happen again!
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everyone knows the rb26 is better cause only the rb26 can make a car go around a corner so fast, it starves the engine of oil. ruined bearings is solid proof. *edit - i vote this thread go to wasteland, so it never gets closed" steve "50 weight sounds nice....."
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dont the yanks drive on the wrong side of the road? so will the japs make a gtr with the wheel on the wrong side or do they just hang a sign on the back of the car like we have here?
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thanks for that. visually the crank doesnt look too bad, it isnt scored or scratched etc, but ill still get it measured up. steve
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hey guys, i was wondering if it was possible to reuse the old bearings in the bottom end of an engine. I.e if the beaings are in good condition, and the crank has been taken out, can it be just returned and torqued down? what if i were get new bearings, can they just be installed? a search showed up nothing, thanks, steve
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Loud Tapping Noise From Top Of Engine - Diagnosed!
PHATR32 replied to PHATR32's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
but if a valve dropped wouldnt the spring have come out of the top when i took the cams off? anyways, i got the engine out and dropped the sump cover. absoulutly nothing in the oil, no metal, nothing. the pistons look great from the bottom, and the rods look great too. it really feels like theres something in cylinder 3. it again gets stuck when it reaches TDC. hopefully ill get to pull the head off toomorw and find out whats happening. steve -
Loud Tapping Noise From Top Of Engine - Diagnosed!
PHATR32 replied to PHATR32's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
that said, it doesnt explain why cylinder 3 was at 30psi, and the rest at 130psi when i ran a compression test.......now that i think of it, the injector on cylinder 3 leaks a bit, so i wonder if it leaned out at some point?? i guess ill find out in a few hours time. dam it....... -
its some dude from australia who looks after sheep.........
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pffft...cams and valves are for loosers......
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Loud Tapping Noise From Top Of Engine - Diagnosed!
PHATR32 replied to PHATR32's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
oh ok, luckily it happened when i was about to shut it down so it was idling. i started it a few more time since while i was doing fault finding, but it was idling less than 1000rpm and it ran for 4 to 5 seconds max. steve -
Loud Tapping Noise From Top Of Engine - Diagnosed!
PHATR32 replied to PHATR32's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
so what that mean in the way of repairs? is it possible to replace the bearings and thats it? or does the crank have to be machined etc etc? thanks -
Loud Tapping Noise From Top Of Engine - Diagnosed!
PHATR32 replied to PHATR32's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
well, ive been pull the engine bay apart these past few afternoons, and found the pipe that controlls the wastegate actuators had come undone!! weird thing is i hadnt noticed any increase in boost?? that said, i do have a stock exhaust..... engine will be out and apart this weekend hopefully....... -
Clunking Noise In The Bak
PHATR32 replied to Slidewayz's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
it could be the 2 way diff. does it clunk when you hold the clutch in while going around a corner? -
thats funny, Edwin happens to know a few things, and one of them things Edwin knows is, its how many cams you have in your engine, it how you race your coor. you better learn that......