Oosh

Thanks for your answers, if you COULD leave my LCD unattached, i think i will give this a go but please include the wires you would use just in case i decide to go back to stock. As for speed, it'd need to be altered by a factor of 0.95, i.e. display 95kmh when it's detecting it as 100kmh. Some further questions: 1. Just how small a fee? 2. Could i keep the original speed variable? i.e. have a Speed1 and Speed2 var. 3. Will either option (modified or 2 vars) effect compatibility with any of the softwares esp. data loggers? Cheers.

Couple more questions, thought this'd be a better spot for it, share the info. and avoid clogging your PM inbox Impakt. 1. What are physical dimensions of the screen? 2. How difficult would it be, for some one with moderate skills, to solder a ribbon cable between the box and screen (say ~30cm length)? 2a. Would the above detrimentally effect the units operation? The above comes about from the desire to mount the screen in a small space necessitating it's detachment from the box. 3. What's the feasibility of having the display all come up backwards, mirrored, so it could be placed on the dash and used as a Heads-Up-Display? A switch to choose between Normal/Mirror would be IDEAL! 4. How would, or could, you go about dicking with the speed signal? I ask because i have an auto diff (4.3:1) in a manual car (normally 4.11:1 diff) so my speedo is out, this way i could have an accurate reading.

I've had both my tools fail and resorted to the ol' screwdriver, but next time i'm trying rubber jar opener AND sandpaper, reckon it'd work well... Edit: On re-readin that post, i thought i better reiterate i am DEFINATELY talking about removing oil filters, and NOTHING else. :aroused:

I got my '89 GTST with Tein HA suspension, 3" exhaust, chipped, HICAS lock and stereo, for around 12K on road (10.5K car, 800 new engine, 300 stamp duty, 600 insure). Paint's a bit rough, but there's no "damage", so surely a GTS is easy sub-10K else sounds a bit steep to me, but if people are paying it... Edit: That wasn't imported, bought locally here in Melb, so with RWC it's stacks less hassle than importing. And you actually get to test-drive it yourself.

RowdyR32 ground it out with a die-grinder on my RB20DET. It did the job without ill-effect, cut through it, squeez it, and lever it out. Sure it leaves a bit of a mark on the housing but grind the worst of the sharp dags smooth and clean up all the fillings.

U13 Bluebird SSS, nice car, 2.4L so a good bit of power for a N/A, plenty of fun to be had in manual form.

Yeah, used one of them, and got away with it! I alos picked up a sorta rounded-triangular hinged jobby from my grandpa's garage, works a LOT better than the steel belt type tools.

Thanks, some how i missed the email saying i had a reply, but all is well now...

PM Sent. FREE BUMP!

Get a small T from Supercheap, and T it just before the MAP sensor, as for tubing just get something similar to the existing stuff going in to the MAP sensor. If you're not sure what the MAP sensor is, it's a little black box on teh firewall on the drivers side under the hood. All mine is held on with cable ties with no worries, get hose clamps though if you're worried.

length isn't the only concern, it's the amount of turns in the piping, the 2nd way has less twists and turns therefore less pressure loss.

Bump!

See above please...

The whole Garrett / HKS connection has been done to death, there's a HUGE thread around here somewhere about it, and summation seems to be: Yes, HKS are Garrett items, but in unique combinations and specs you can't buy from Garret direct. If you want to discuss it further i suggest revive the aforementioned thread.

That's what the speedo read, chances are that's the K's on the engine, it's had a 5spd conversion but the motor should have stayed the same. Just so you're aware, i have an offer on the exhaust manifold, but as mentioned anyone taking the the lot will get preference. Please don't take TOO long deciding and you're welcome to come look at it if you feel the need.

Add me to the waiting list, pricing still the same?

How many Kms on the turbo, any shaft play?

99% of the braces out there seem to be of the "hinged" type, a bar, pins at each end attached to plates screwed to the strut-tops. Then there's the one on Nigel's Supra (picture attached) which has solid welds to the strut-top plates. My thoughts would be the later offers a stiffer setup, as the hinged-type stop stuts moving apart = /, or together = / , but they wouldn't stop both moving the same direction = / / or . Whereas the solid-type would. Now can anyone tell me how much, if any, of deal is this? And why not throw the 3-anchor point type, 3rd one on the firewall, in to the mix too? And does anyone know of a supplier for the solid-type as i've yet to see one? Cheers.

Availability on a pair of these (in black as shown): seatcoverskyline.jpg and freight cost to Melbourne please. Cheers.

Where does it bolt on to then?

Anyone? Open to offers....

I believe it's a KW-XC838 Link: http://www.jvc-australia.com/products/_pro...ils.asp?ID=1185 Shame, i really want a seperate sub-out else i'd be hard-pressed not to buy this...

Thank you fro the pictures, however, could you please answer my above questions also. Cheers.

Any more info. on the muffler, i.e. Inlet piping diameter, muffler body size, age, etc? Pics appreciated also if you have them (will PM you my email).

Yeah i reckon you're average wombat is about 50% concrete w/w! They demolish cars at speed.