benl1981

Hey there - thanks for the reply. I don't really understand what you mean about an old lead between coil and spark plug. Do you have to pull the centre cover off to do this. All cars I've done this on have haed a distibutor i.e. no indiidual coil packs. Thanks

Thanks mate. Can you do this before or after you start the car. I see 15 deg is the standard. I'm not really sure which wire I need to put the timing light pulse detector bit on. I have the manual and had a look. It said somewherenear the plug on te top of the engine..I read a few posts and I think they said that one should be 30 deg. I'll have to try it. Cheers

Just a quick one. Does anyone know if you have to short anything while you check or adjust the timing. On other cars I've had to short the diagnostic terminal. It's meant to be 10 deg BTDC right? Cheers

I'll have to drive a rexy - but in the mags they all comment how they rev to 6 or 7000rpm then drop the clutch to launch (thats how tey get good 0-100). I would think if an R33 and rexy had roilling start the R33 would win. Remember boost is very low in a stock skyline 4psi below 4500rpm and 7psi above that. Rexys run about 14psi stock. Fairer comparison would be with 10psi on the skyline. Nissan were very conservative with there boost levels. Both fast cars - faster than you need on the street!

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...4543188036&rd=1

PM replied. Also included insttructions and illustrations

So there is fuel savings to be had with the DFA... I get about the 11-13L/100 in my R33gtst manual. Hopefully maybe get it down to 10-11 with some tuning. With the prices of fuel these days it may pay for itself, plus some more power and less emissions Say 15k per year. A saving of 1.5L/100kms is 225L which is Approx $250 or more on fuel. Due you think a 1L/100km saving is achievable quite easy even on a manual R33? I guess you have to have a fairly decent tuner.

Nice one. I think it may be worthyas to get from 3psi to the higher boost in lower gears requires a bit of a stab on the accelerator. Maybe this contoller would allow the boost to build a bit easier if the wastegate is fully shut. I'm not chasing huge power but more response would be nice

I currently have a resrictor piece in place of the solenoid to run 10psi. THough it does fluctuate a little from 9psi to 10psi. Will this Boost controller makes the car feel much more torquey by reducing wastegate creep.? I don't want to bother with it if it isn't going to make much of a difference. On part throttle does the car feel a lot more resposive?

Thanks mate, got the idea from reading a few things in here, found this nice little fitting that suits and thought I'd see if anyone interested. Yes, alternatively you can get about a 6mm needle valve to do the same thing as this (like what you did) - though you have to adjust to get correct setting and boost could spike slightly more. Depends what people are after. So the R32 has a similar arrangement (just looking at your pic in avator)?

Ok. I have a small restrctor piece that all you need to do is disconnect the 2 hoses to the factory boost solenoid and plug them onto either side of it. I have drilled it out to the right size to make 10psi. Takes less than 5 minutes to install, no changes to hoses and you won't burn out your solenoid by earthing it to the chassis to get the constant 7psi!! Please see latest posts. Verify that you do have the solenoid connected that I am referring to.. You get one piece, clamps and instructions delivered for $20. If you want a second piece to hold another boost level add another $8 and I will try and amtch that boost level.

Or cut engine due to high airflow/??

Wont the car boost cut before anything dramatic happens???

Has that R33 service manual got all the mechanical stuff, chassis etc?? I have one similar mb size but it is only engine...

Ended up getting it out. Took the lower control arm and the hub off then with big copper hammer big hit on top of threaded bit poking through. Hitting the side of it to release taper didn' t help. Got the old bearing out now putting the new one in tomorrow mornign PS you need a few tools to do this. Drifts, bearing pullers etc.

Far out - did you get stuck on the same Lower control arm ball joinT? Ive taken the contrel arm and hub off and going to take it to a friend of my old mans that has a press and heaps of tools.

While I've been trying to ge tthe hub off the front of my car some suspension component has been resting heavily on the tie rod end. A lot of grease came out - I cant see any splits. Can I just add some grease again. If I pop the rubber bit up I can probably fit something in there to add a bit of grease (Due to the taper). This happened to anyone before?? Thanks :ufo:

Ok I nearly have the hub off though I don't know whether I need a 2 or 3 jaw puller to get this apart. See pics below!! Also below is actually the bearing and seal for the steering axis.. Do you think this seal is hard to replace - anyone done it... Do you have to pop the bearings out? There is a fair bit of movement in this beaing is this normal. I.e. the inner race can be pushed in and out a bit (ome play), is this normal...there is a lot of grease around there.. Another pic of the situation

cool thanks!! how did you get FAST..

Thanks mate. I actually just called nissan and they gave me a similar no,. 40210 33P02...i.e. not 30P02?? Do you think that includes the seal? Nissan didn't seem to think so.. Cheers

Anybody got a part number either Nissan part no. or generic bearing kit? Thanks

Anybody got a part number either Nissan part no. or generic bearing kit? Thanks

ANyone know the part no. ?? I rang up CBC they wanted $149 + GST for one kit (bearing and seal). The kit was NJ134KIT. Nissan wanted $76 but I don't know if that was with the seal. Maybe I'll just pull it apart tonight and get the bearing matched up... ANyone know the exact part number and cheap source. I thought I would be abloe to get it for under 50...

Do you think I'll be able to get the bearing out myself once I get the hub off? Maybe I'll have to take it to a friend of the old mans that has a press... Were the rears isn your gtst easy enough to replace? Sorry about all the qns...

I've done FWD ones on corollas etc which are as you say. Yes very tight. I have about a 80cm breaker bar and had to swing on that. Where did you get your bearings Duncan? ACL??? About how much? Cheers