benl1981

I just wanted to retard the timing 1-2 deg. I will put my timing light on it on the weekend. But with standard dizzys I think I rotated the sizzy body clockwise so the rotor arm contacts and fires each sparkplug later. Hence retarding the timing. Do you rotate the CAS clockwise to retard timing?? Thanks

Thanks. Yeah I was thinking of getting one in Sydney to avoid it going in post annd getting damaged.

anyone? I might make up a plate to block off the BOV tonight.

My car (Skyline R33 RB25DET, manual trans) doesn’t reach full boost in 1st gear and I seem to have lost about 1-1.5psi peak boost over the last month or 2. I’m thinking it could be a leaky BOV (I only have the stock one)…or the wastegate actuator has deteriorated slightly so it is slightly open all the time or opens up too early. I have run with and without solenoid so the solenoid isn’t the problem. The intercooler hoses are on tight. No leaks there. My friends R33 reaches the full boost in 1st easlily. He has better tyres, maybe the fact mine is wheel spinning a little is limiting boost build up in 1st. Not sure. So I’m thinking 1. Check BOV 2. Check actuator 3. Anything else? Air filter…I doubt it.. You can adjust the preload on the wwastegate right? If I screw it in so it is tighter it won't oppen quite as easily right? But I odon't want to fiddle with this as it shouldnt have come out of asjusment. Also does the BOV have asjustment. Boost is being measure at the plenum...where the stock BOV usually takes its reading. Is it bad to run the car with the BOV disconnected and a plate over the hole for a while to test!???

I'm suprised they stay in closed loop that much. I'm getting about 12-13L/100km from a manual R33, maybe I should change the 02 sensor out of routined maintenance. If it is running 14.7 most of the time I would think fuel consumption wouldn't be that bad. I guess it's got a lot to do with how often you put uyour foot into it also.

So if you have a fuel adjuster such as SAFC etc does it gain by leaning it out under closed loop or does it just keep adjusting to get it back to AFR of 14.7

ANybody with a front cut want to sell one to me. The plastic piece that cover behind the intercooler etc. For an R33. Its a sedan but probably the same as coupe. Thanks

I have been through this with my R33. You have to get an adjustment of vehicle records from a mechanic that does BLUE slips. THis costs $22. I was able to show the mechanic the specification sheet from a workshop manual. My R33 sedan was previoulsly put in at 1570kgs tare weight! The heviest sedan in the spec sheet was 1410kg so he put it down as that. If he hadn't have accepted the spec sheet you have to go to an authorised RTA weighbridge. This costs about $23-$27. The mechanic I went to was in the hills area. Hills motorsport gave me his name. I think Milan or something, he was a good guy Then you take the adjustment of vehicle records to the RTA and they cahange it. I did this just before I regod the car. Saved me about 100 per year

The pinging has gone since I fitted the R34 intercooler but I will check my base timing. I realise that with 1st gear there is not as much load on the engine - thought I could still reach max boost though. Maybe the boost controller may help develop a little more boost... Thanks for thie info

Thanks for the responses. Sorry to side track the thread a bit. So the fact that I can hear slight pinging while driving and the ECU doent do anything means that is is below 40. Is this normal to hear some pinging and it still be below 40? Or should I be replacing the knock sensor? Are you going to limit the turbo life much by eliminating wastegate creep and the boost drop off? I don't really reach max boost (only get to about 4-5psi) in 1st gear when I get about 7-8psi in the other gears. This is an R33 manual with the solenoid earthed. Is this normal. WIll I get more boost in 1st with this setup?

With the standard boost control solenoid shorted (so I get the full boost from low rpm) I am only getting about 4-5psi peak at around 4-5000rpm in 1st gear. Full boost in other gears is around 7psi. Due to less load i.e. being in first gear is this normal? Or should I be checking the wategate actuator.. I have also noticed that boost used to be 0.55bar peak but now it is 0.45 bar. I might have to check my gauge as it may be reading wrongly. Thanks

About how long does it take to tune the boost controller while driving. Can you get it pretty well set up after about 30mins to 1hr of driving? Combined with the fuel adjuster could you eliminate the richened mixture and retard you get from increased airflow that people talk about when running higher boost i.e because you are trimming the AFM signal? I guess you may have to retard base timing 1-2 degrees in some cases if pinging is detected... Some people say that once you hear it pinging it is too late. I think most turners use their ear along with knock sensors right? I have heard my car ping, and it has a knock sensor so it obviously didn't detect it (I didn't feel it retard timing). Since the R34 cooler went in I have not heard pinging..maybe it was more inlet temp related? Thanks

Don't know how hard it is on the Gtr but you may have to take the dump pipe/s off to see if you still have exhaust wheels on the end of your turbos. You would think you would hear a boost leak if some of the plumbing got taken out by the belt but if everything looks right then I'd be thinking turbos.

I ran my R33 for a small drive without the power steer belt on. Still boosted fine. Hate to say it but I think they may be seperate issues. I guess wack a new belt on then reset the ecu and see how it goes ...fingers crossed.. Good luck with it.

Take your old radiator to a radiator shop . They will be happy to have it. They will proabbly use the core or some part of it

I have sold about 14 of these and I have had feedback from about 10 people so far. All except 2 have held 9-10psi as they requested, however 2 people that have had automatics have been seeing around 13-14psi!! I am in the process of sending them more conservative ones. I find this strange but if I find this to be consistent trend then I will have to have a manual one and another for automatics...

I bled the air out and added some more fluid. Seems almost ok now..

I'm working on it now..can anyone help?? Thanks

There is definately 2 layers!! I'll take a pic. This power steering problem is very annoying. Is this a big layer of air? How can I get rid of it. The little gauze in there doesnt seem to be really clogged..

I'm having issues with my power steer and it looks like I have 2 layers of fluid. In the middle there is about 1-2cm which isn't filled and then on the top more fluid. Maybe it is just darker plastic. But the fluid is about 1-2cm above what it was before. So maybe there is air somewhere else..but that much to raise the level in the reservoir 1-2cm. The fluid isn't frothy in there anymore Car is an R33.

Pmd you - I will take the intercooler!! THanks Ben

I'll check it out tonight. I'll do up all the clamps - if there is no leaks and there is still air after about 10 to 15 turns then it is probably the pump or rack that is the problem right? THanks

I've replaced the timing belt and the harshness is still there. I have noticed that there are some missing studs ont he exhaust manifold but the exhaust isn't very noisy at all. At low rpm could this be effecting the smoothness of the motor?

Is wheels off the ground necessary? I've got a grinding pump and just doing up all hose connections before bleeding to make sure there is no leaks that are introducing air into the system... Do you need to loosen any hoses when you are bleeding as suggested above?

How much do you need to space it to be safe?