Leeroy94

I've purchased a multilayered steel gasket, permaseal I believe. I got a small metal ruler (closest straight edge object I could find) and the flange is slightly bowed in a concave shape. That being, the centre surface of the flange is further in than the surface of the studs. What can be done to fix this? And to further prevent this from happening. It's only bowed 0.5-1mm roughly.

Walbro 255 is good. Another thing that is wise is upgrading your wiring.

Turbo is only running 10psi.. Unsure of what type of highflow. It's steel wheeled and about 8mm larger in diameter. 220rwkw maxed out the stock injectors using a nistune. I've got a 3 inch bell mouth dump pipe going to twin 2 1/4 inch straight pipes. No mufflers or cats. Tabs are done up tightly. Warping definitely could be plausible. The gaskets blow out long ways inbetween the bolts, parallel to the rocker covers.

Rb25det neo with high flow turbo making 220rwkw. Track car. Last two track nights I've blown two turbo gaskets. Had some crappy $7 composite gasket on when I bought the engine, so I replaced it with a factory metal one but that also blew out I double checked all the nuts and they were tight, aswell as having the clips on them to reduce movement. Turbo glows red.. I don't know if I need a special gasket to withstand the heat? I've tried searching the forums but couldn't find a clear answer. Which type of gasket is the best for track cars? It's just such a lengthy job to change it so I want to do it one more time but make sure it doesn't break this time. Cheers

If you think its a gasket, get a hose or piece of flexible pipe and put one end to your ear and with the other end scan the outsides of the manifolds. If there is a leak you will be able to hear it. Of course the car needs to be running to do this. Other basic things to check are: Fuel filter Fouled plugs (spluttering) - also check spark plug gap if you have feeler gauges Fuel pump - as mentioned Wouldn't hurt to do a compression test. Engine could just be tired in general. Without tuning, the rb20det engine torque curve starts decreasing at around 5500-5700rpm anyway. Unless you're in 1st or 2nd it doesn't really pull hard past those figures.

Up for sale is a very good condition rb25det neo air con compressor. Comes complete with engine bracket, bolts, pulleys, belt and compressor hose. Location: Gold Coast Price: $100 PM me with any questions. Can post at buyers expense.

Just wondering if anyone has purchased an item off this ebay seller. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/full-aluminum-bolt-on-drag-DRiFT-RACE-WING-for-NISSAN-R31-/281210804916?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4179785ab4&_uhb=1

PM'ed

Sounds like a job for the bikies lol

Is the rb25det engine complete?

Yes the white part of the plug had snapped. I just replaced them all. I looked around but no one sold bcfr7es.. Only online but it would have taken too long to get to my house so I thought I'd go with the 6 rating plug instead.

Yeah no bits fell in.. I checked. Would a stuck lifter cause the compression in cylinder 3 to jump all over the place though?

When i restarted the car after the knocking stopped

While knock was loud and then diminished and stalled

I just did another compression test. Cylinder 3 is giving different results. Test 1 cylinder 3: 120psi Test 2 cylinder 3: 80psi Test 3 cylinder 3: 95psi I'm assuming either what badgaz said, a stuck lifter or, a broken valve spring. Valve spring would explain the knocking, missing and broad variance in compression results.

Yes from about 3 hours ago, before I put the new plugs in.

Just started it again. The knocking is definitely gone and now its missing badly on idle. To the point that it stalls unless I keep the accelerator on

No one cylinder is causing a knock because I unplugged each coilpack one at a time and there was no stop in the knock. It only reduced the speed of the knock.

Mods are: FMIC Rb25 turbo 3 inch dump pump Standard ECU Compression test is: Cylinder 1: 125psi Cylinder 2: 121psi Cylinder 3: 120psi Cylinder 4: 125psi Cylinder 5: 120psi Cylinder 6: 126psi Yeah but the car restarted after the knocking stopped. Also the car was running on 5 cylinders when putting it onto the trailer, and then immediately after the spark plug change there's a loud knock out of no where? I'm quite confused.

Why is the motor being parted out?

I was driving my track car last Friday and my engine all of sudden sounded like a wrx. I took all the spark plugs out to find one had cracked severely. I went down to supercheap and bought 6 new copper plugs (bcfr6es-11) and installed them. It was hard to start and then once started a loud knocking noise was coming from the engine. So I turned the car off, checked fault codes for engine knock but none came up (5,5 on the ecu light). I restarted the car and then unplugged each coilpack one at a time to see if the knocking stopped but the revs only decreased and so did the knock. I revved it up to 1500rpm and the knock got faster. Then after about 10 more seconds of idling the knocking stopped and the car stalled. I then restarted the car again and it was struggling to stay on idle and sounded like it wanted to stall, and eventually it did. I can post videos of the knock stopping and a video of after I restarted the car. Please help. I have no idea where to start.

I have a low compression rb20det so I'm just running it till it pops (drift car) I have a rb25det series 2 (from memory) long motor.. Was just going to interchange as many parts as possible when the rb20 blows to save money. I have an rb25 turbo on the rb20 ATM so that helps

series 2 sorry.

If I have a complete rb20det engine and an rb25det long motor what parts can I interchange? E.g starter motor, Exhaust manifold etc

How much is it?