Leeroy94

I took my intercooler piping off to do a compression test and there was heaps of really black oil inside the piping. I pulled the accelerator cable to check inside my intake plenum and the oil was also in there. So far I've had people tell me its my turbo. But I had a look and its all fine. Seals are all intact. What else could it be?

2 x Genuine 3 piece watanabe 16x8 I'm looking for a ball park figure so I can sell them, I really have no idea. Note: 4x114.3 stud pattern

Definitely! Very well said.

Yeah probably. But as I'm still learning basic mechanics I need all the input I can get XD

It turned out to be a seal from the PS pump. New seal $7 from bursons. Installed myself very easy. I did a re-bleed of the system and the noise was gone.

Yeah I'll make a list of things I check. I just don't want a hefty auto electrician bill As for my battery tie down, I must have tightened the wing nut too much because it bent the hole in which the hook slotted into. Only a matter of time before it slipped out.

So I was driving and my battery came loose, fell over and the positive came into contact with the negative. When I turn the key to accessories, my turbo timer lights up for a split second then dies, all of my dash lights, gauges, driving lights etc do not work. My fuel pump does not prime. Car turns over fine and at normal speed but does not start. All the fuses in my car are intact. All the fusible links in my engine bay are intact. No obvious fraying of wires anywhere. I'm all out of ideas of what it could be. I have a multimeter handy if there are any suggested tests that could rule out possible problems?

I went to service my car today and found a small patch of power steering fluid on the ground. On closer inspection it appears to be coming from the connection of the reservior pipe to the power steering pump. The reservior has plenty of fluid in it. I started the car and opened the bonnet to discover a slight grinding noise imminating from the power steering pump. This was while idling. Upon reving the engine the grinding noise didnt get louder, but faster. While a friend turned the wheel left to right the noise got slightly louder and faster. The obvious thing to do is replace the power steering pump. Could it be something simple? All input appreciated.

How do you know its dumping heaps of fuel in? Edit: Are you using a stock fuel pump? And is it possible the pump isnt working properly?

yeah okay.. I guess the only thing I can do right now is install the 25 turbo.. Next track night (yes its a track car) is next friday on the 22nd. So I might attempt the installation the following week. Ill post results of installation.

I'll consult a tuner before the install to look at my fuel pressures etc. Is this nipple on the IC piping going to the intake plenum? I have a strange thing poking out of the piping already that almost looks like a spark plug. My original thoughts were that it was just screwed in to seal up the screw hole that's there so maybe this is the nipple that your talking about?

yeah a Nistune is $990.. If i can get away with just the stock ECU ill be happy. Im only chasing 20-30hp more from the rb25 turbo.. Thats about standard without a tune yeah?

yeah.. hopefully it doesnt. I have these mods: 3 inch turbo dump pipe FMIC walbro 255 fuel pump Once the rb25 turbo has been installed, will I need a tune? Ill only be running the stock rb20 actuator.

Its a 45v4 turbo. The guy said it was from a R33 and that is was also never boosted past 10psi. From what I can tell it has 1-2mm shaft play without oil. Is that bad? Ive read that they have factory shaft play of up to 1mm so that when they heat up it still spins freely? Or is that false? What else should I look for on the turbo to tell its condition, type?

Thank you Sneakey Pete! I'll look out for water lines StevenCJR31, iruvyouskyrine cheers for the input guys.

So you have done it?

Does anyone know of a tutorial on how to do this swap? I have been told it is quite simple so thought I would give it a go if I had a good tutorial to follow.

Who drifts at QR and in what?

Just a thought, see if you can pick up an rb20det turbo actuator and swap it with the rb25 turbo actuator. I've seen the individual actuators sell for around $50. The rb25 turbo actuator is set on roughly 7 psi whereas the rb20 turbo actuator is set on 10 psi. Just a thought anyway.

Definitely want a genuine one. Can you help me out?

Where is the cheapest place to get a walbro 255 fuel pump?

What are the methods for detecting air leaks? And where should I start etc?

Yes it all lined up. I just took the harmonic balancer off to check if the keyway was still there and its all right, I double checked. I disconnected the brown plug connected to the AAC valve, it dropped to 600rpm and then lasted about 5 seconds before stalling. I also tried multiple adjustments on the screw and no difference.

I put a timing light on my car, which showed that my timing was out. Then i took my cas off, followed by my cam cover. Then with a breaker bar and a socket i rotated the camshaft until number 1 cylinder was TDC, and matching the cam wheels. If the key had slipped on the crank, would it not make the actual TDC mark not accurate? because is has actually slipped out of place? Which would make the engine seem like the timing is out even though the timing light says 15 degrees BTDC?

Hmm.. Ill look into it cheers