Leeroy94

I did all that. Lined it all up. As far as I know the base timing is good.

I reset my timing today on my rb20det. But in order to get 15 degrees BTDC on idle, the CAS had to be turned almost fully clockwise. Once fully clockwise the idle would drop until stalling and it was also hunting. I have played around with the AAC valve, turning the idle adjustment screw both clockwise (decrease idle) and anti-clockwise (increase idle) and nothing happens. I'm thinking that the BTDC mark isnt the true mark. Maybe the key slipped out of the crankshaft when the timing belt was changed (previous owner). Would that explain why the idle adjustment screw on the AAC valve isnt working? Im really lost and dont really want to remove everything to check if they key is there.

My timing is out on my rb20det so I read up on all these forums and eventually found a PDF manual on rb engines. In the PDF it says the first step is to change the idle speed to 650rpm. Engine was originally idling at 950rpm I unplugged the AAC valve plug (brown) and it dropped to 650rpm for about 3 seconds. Then it slowly dropped over the next 10 seconds until it stalled. I tried adjusting the idle screw both with the AAC valve plug hooked up and disconnected. No change in RPM. Another forum suggested to disconnect the TPS (rb25) but for rb20 it is not necessary. I'm really stumped..

I tried returning it to stock but it made it worse. Spluttered and missing from 2-4k rpm.

I tested my coil packs and they were all fine. Then today I tested my coil pack plugs. Plugs 1 measured 6.8 ohms then plugs 2-6 measured 7.2. Is this enough difference to be causing it not to rev over 5000?

Is this ECU for a silver top rb20det?

Suspicious: Some sort of resistor is hooked up to the coolant temp sensor circled in the picture. Previous owner said that it makes the ecu think its running at 30 degrees so it puts more fuel in to make a few extra HP?? I tried removing it and returning it to stock but it was missing around the 2000-4000rpm mark. So for now I reinstalled the resistor and its running fine from 1000-5000rpm. Thought I would input as much information as possible.

Unfortunately I have no friends with rb motors but I do have a multimeter.. Can I check that way?

Cooling problem sorted. Now I need to fix the revs problem. I've checked majority of the electrical side of things. Spark plugs, coil packs etc. I've checked all my hoses/pipes for leaks. Could it be an ECU problem? And how would I go about diagnosing it?

I'm having this problem with my rb20det but it won't rev past 5000rpm.. But 2500rpm could be knock sensor.. Unfortunately 2500rpm and 5000 rpm are two different cases. Yours won't rev when you have next to no boost pressure whereas my car won't rev while in boost. I'm keen to see what more experienced people have to say in regards to the solution for this problem

So I took it in to the radiator shop. The guy said he has never seen a radiator that was so blocked in the 14 years of working there. Which is definitely a main factor in the overheating problem I've been having.

I've been quoted $280 delivered for a brand new aus spec r31 radiator. Is that a reasonable price? Ill take it all apart tomorrow and take it in first thing Monday morning. Apparently they have a method of testing if its blocked or functioning fine at the shop.

It does this cold spot thing. So maybe I will give that a go. Do you thnk I should give it a go myself or just take it to a radiator place?

Yeah, I think we both have valid points. At the end of the day it's a personal preference on how each technique benefits your drifting based on a combination of your skills and your car. I couldn't agree more about the importance of weight transfer and how you should learn all aspects of it, rather than just relying on one technique. In regards to the type of handbrake I use, it's a JJR hydraulic system. http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=19721&cat=331&page=1 Although if you are on a budget, the ebay ones are a lot more affordable. In comparison to mine, there isnt much different in terms of reliablity and appearance. I know numerous people running the ebay ones for over 2 years now. If a hydraulic system isn't what your after then try a drift button. Also, a much cheaper option

Oh ok. I think I understand stand now. Before you said "handbrake isn't an entry technique!!!" And now your saying it is a technique but not the best one to use? And then continue on to reference all these very experienced drifters, some even professional drivers and their amazing techniques. Which is all fine and well, however we aren't pro drifters like you. And for novice to amateur drivers like me (which, lets be honest, is a lot of us) we use basic techniques, of which the handbrake entry is the most common. You are right, it may not be the best, and I do agree with you. But it's the easiest and the most common. It may not be relevant to the argument, however this thread is about handbrakes. Therefore a handbrake entry comment was bound to come up. Wasn't trying to start an argument. Just stating my opinion.

Oh ok. I guess keiichi tsuchiya is wrong and you are right. I mean he is the founder and one of the best drifters in the world but of course he must be mistaken. I'll let him know for you.

Assume your heading in to a corner at over 100kph using the most common entry technique (handbrake). You notice your going way to fast but want to maintain your angle and the control of the slide. What do you do? Use the front brake while still having the handbrake engaged. Rather than I guess purposely trying spin out to avoid slamming your car in to the wall? I use a hydraulic handbrake and still engage the front brake mid slide, if needed. If your handbrake works, don't change it. Install a drift button. If its on its way out look at getting a brake upgrade perhaps. I run big VS commodore brakes engaged by a hydraulic handbrake in a R31 skyline. Works a treat.

I really need to find someone in the Gold Coast area that has extended knowledge of the rb20det engine because I think mine has been played around with and it's just not performing.

It's definitely running rich.. I can smell the fuel from the cabin. And it has some sort of resistor plugged in to the injectors that makes the ecu think the engine is running cold so it pumps more fuel in or something

Ok, I'll check them out cheers!

I have this problem. I want to fix this problem! Has this since been resolved?? Any ideas?

Unfortunately i live in one of those neighbourhoods where the retiree's living next door call the police if we even sneeze. And my car has no exhaust so its pretty loud. I'll have to wait till Friday Any ideas on why it wont rev past that amount? It seems to spit and run rough over the 5000 mark, loses boost too.

Ok thanks! I'll give these things a go and test them friday night at track. Will update saturday with progress

Not a stupid question at all, in fact when I got the car one was facing so it was blowing in and the other was blowing out :s but both are now pushing air through the radiator and towards the engine.

I have a R31 skyline running a stock rb20det from a r32 with a JJR dump pipe. Its running dual thermos on a stock aus spec radiator (fairly old). Just did a track day with the following problems: Engine won't rev over 5500rpm. Radiator gets way to hot, at one point the water temp hit 115 degrees so I had to take it off the track to cool down. Before fixing the revs problem, we need to address the cooling. In what order should I diagnose this problem so that it is most cost effective. I was thinking something like: 1) flush radiator 2) check water pump functions properly 3) replace radiator Should I remove the thermostat? Is getting some anti boil radiator additive worth it? All suggestions welcome as I'm new to working on cars. Can post photos if needed regarding the engine.