TurboX

Thanks for the advice everyone, I guess the common idea of sticking with the standard one is at least going to save me paying out more for something else. The main worry I had was that the reason I asked was the original one was coroded on the rear of the back cylinder as was blown through to the water jacket. This was found out after I had removed the intake manifold to repair the hose under there after blowing it half way down the 1320 at Calder one friday night. Had to flat tray it home and explain to the wife why her car was no longer drivable. :Oops: Anyway when I had replaced the hose and refitted the intake manifold etc and started it, the oil pressure dropped imeadiatley and we shut it down. After removing the head the problem with the head gasket was obvious as about 25mm of the cylinder edge was missing. I am not going to speculate why this may have been the case but it was not long after dynoing and upping the output to 180Kw @ 12PSI. Although there was evidence of corrosion in the block behind the metal rim of the gasket which means it must have been leaking for a while. Luckily none on the lip where the rim needs to seal on the new gasket. Of course if you take the head off you HAVE to get it ported polished etc etc.. new Adj Cam gears etc. Anyone ever seen a $40K R32 GTS4?? Guess I have had it for 7 years....

Nowhere in my post does it say I have not changed my fuel filter in ten years! I was assuming the people with imports that may have purchased them recently with this stalling problem may never have had the fuel filter changed when in Japan. But I will admit I have had my car for near 7 years and relied on a workshop to do these things for me occasionaly and some times its hard to tell if what you pay for is actually done if you dont watch them do it. I will say that the Ultra Tune in Carlton that replaced the water pump for about $400 must have been crazy after now realising what a pain it must have been.

Think I remember when mine was coming on it needed the brake fluid filled? No maybe it was the AWD reservoir in the back??? Damn that's the trouble with getting old. Anyway check them all.... Great thing about the GTS4 is you know when one of your tyres are going down slowly as the AWD starts coming in all the time;-)

Any advice on a head gasket to suit an RB20DET with extensive headwork, T4/T3 Backcut, R33FMIC, 3"complete Exh, 550ccRX7 Inj, TurboClub Intake Mfd, Int/Exh Cam gears, Custom Auto, 2800 RPM Soderstrom conv, AWD. I want 250Kw at 4 wheels out of 2.0 ltrs so I guess I am pushing it :bs!: Do I go Standard Factory which I have already bought but having 2nd thoughts, or Copper custom and hylomar or.. Stainless shim style. If Copper or Stainless, what thickness?? ( Considering I have hogged out a bit from each combustion chamber already)

I'm with Mick. The turbo's made boost so are not the problem. The A/F ratios are the key but consider if the new injectors are blocked/ stuffed /not connected properly/ you might see the correct AF ratio at the tail pipe but maybe thats the balance of 2 really rich cylinders and four partially working. Have seen it before on my GTS4 when replacing injectors for 550cc RX7's. I would be looking closer at the injectors and wiring/connectors and also plugs/ignition.

While getting more current or voltage to your fuel pump may have solved your problem, I belive it might be a good idea to REPLACE your Fuel Filter. When you think about it, you probably needed that increased pressure because your filter is nearly blocked with 10 years of gunk! I know mine was when I removed it recently, it was so bad I could not blow through it. Riiiighttt. The original filter I recon by the way it looked. Replaced it with a much larger unit to make sure much better flow. Although my GTS4 was not stalling at low RPM, it did have fuel supply problems. This is a cheap fix and a good idea if you dont know the history of the vehicle as most imports probably have not been maintained as well as they should be as labour is expensive in Japan. Do it SOON!

I generally agree with ROY, but you can experience Detonation when the ignition of the Air/Fuel charge is initiated at the correct time by the correct means - the spark at the plug. This is one subject that there is a lot of talk about that is not always correct as there are so many variations on cause and effect known by many different names. I dont profess to understand it completely, but I do know that it is important to do everything in your control to try and prevent it. Roy's last paragraph is good advice, and I belive that there are many other things to do that can reduce the chances as well, including ensuring your Timing & Air/Fuel ratios are correct under boost on a dyno, your fuel filter is not more than 2/3 yrs old or not partialy blocked, injectors clean, decent fuel pump at right rail pressure, no oil soaked blowby going into your intake via PCV, Pod filter sucking hot underbonnet air, dirty Air filter, dirty Fuel pump filter, low voltage at fuel pump under load, and my personal favourites, no sharp edges in combustion chamber! This includes Spark Plug Threads, valve reliefs in pistons, head shaved edges, valve seat machining, piston indents etc. Unfortunately the head has to come off for these extreme measures but I think it all counts towards more safer power and if you have it off to be ported etc why not do it? It does reduce your Comp Ratio slightly, but that lets you run more boost safely.

If you have an AUTO - DON'T screw around with this BPV - BY PASS Valve! If you have a MANUAL - DON'T screw around with this BOV - Blow Off Valve. If you dont realise the difference, dont screw around! But consider instead of letting your boost reference for the wastegate be from the snail of the inducer where it comes from as standard, plumb it in to your intake manifold so your waste gate opens a bit later when the boost is actually at the intake of the engine. Caution, this could over speed your turbo:-) Obviously you block the orig. hose from the snail to stop airleak. You could also hook the hose from the BPV/BOV to the Intake manifold direct as well for better response.

Questions 1. Is the car Auto or Manual? 2. Are you using the standard computer and AFM? Its a BPV (By PASS Valve) on the original crossover if an Auto! Whats the diff you ask? BOV - needs to vent excessssss boost - (Back into intake if AFM still in system). Used on Manual cars as you have to back off to change gears and helps stop stalling the compressor when throttle closed suddenly. BPV - FOR AUTO's - Needs to open immeadiately you floor it to get better response off the line with more METERED airflow into the intake manifold. Think about it, you dont need to take your foot off when an Auto changes gears so why would you need a BOV as such, though the BPV will act as one also when backing off suddenly on braking. Also thinking about it, wouldnt the BOV open to atmosphere (Non metered air into intake) on a vacuum signal while ideling and initial acceleration? (Leanout?) Sorry, just thinking aloud;-)

Put me down for one! Just what I need now that the head is off and being modded and I can get at everything a bit easier. Should work well with my custom TurboClub Intake.