TurboX

Its amazing how this thred degenerated into disagreement and off topic disagreement. 2 more young lives lost because of bravado behind the wheel. Any way you cut it, there are lessons to be learnt from this incident and discussion of it. 1.THINK 2.THINK HARDER 3.THINK YOURSELF LUCKY IT WAS NOT YOU, BECAUSE YOU KNOW THAT TIME WHEN IT COULD HAVE BEEN YOU?? IF you cant remember that time when you screwed up bigtime but were lucky enough to get away with it... Give it time, you will! I write this knowing there have been a few times, but then, I am double your age!

Thanks very much for that. Appreciate the prompt rely! I have spoken to Eddie and passed on the message to my friend in Sydney. Its up to her now to decide which way to go.

Can anyone in ACT/Canberra help in recomending a Auto Transmission Workshop that has experience with MAZDA 626 with 2 ltr V6 engine, Automatic, 1992 model. The car is stranded in Belconnen and the owner, a friend is in Sydney. She was silly enough to drive to ACT for a flower show and it died there. Being quoted crazy money (near $4K ) to Repair or replace with a S/H unit. A complete rebuild of my GTS4 Auto with kevlar clutches, 2800RPM Hi Stall and other work only cost me $3K in Melbourne. Or is it just damned expensive in ACT? :confused: Sorry I know its not a Nissan but.....

Not sure thats a restrictor. I guess its in the main entry from the AFM by the look of it. It may be a air smoothing device which is a benefit to guide the air into the turbo entry smoothly which will enhance response and power even though it may reduce volume a bit.

Yes I agree, thats why I am happy for you do do all the hard work and I will just buy the finished product I have already spent enough on custom alloy work like my Intake, etc.http://www.turboclub.com/turbocars/nissan/.../GTS4/index.htm

No worries, I have it at work in the city so drop in any time to pick it up between 9:30- 5:30. Talking to my son who works every day testing turbo's and turbines he says that its important that the entry to the turbo is as straight as posible for as long as possible. Although on this pipe there is not much length and it needs to bend sharply its probably better to relocate the bov and vac inlets back from the turbo entry as far as possible while still retaining compatibility. A big advantage of this mod is the smooth walls and air flow that will result from it into the turbo. The Std rubber unit with the folds etc. is bad for flow.

If its as you illustrate then I would think it was a waste of money as its probably worse than before. Although the gases probably have lost a bit of heat and velocity any input of extra gasses at right angles at WOT is NOT good. Much better to have it going in on a steep angle with a slight bit of pipe inside so the passing gasses actualy help suck the WG gas into the stream. Anyway that's my 2 cents worth

I have mine off the R32 GTS4 (should be same as GTS) lying around at the moment so you can borrow for a week or so til I need it back - maybe longer. You can pickup in the City from tomorrow as I will take it to work Sat. Let me know before 5:00PM today.

Bet your White car has BLACK tinted windows though :uh-huh: I willl have a AFM to Turbo pipe also, thanks Bass Junky.

Maybe its similar to my turbo recently declared totaly screwed after 2/3000 K's :Oops: Had the turbo high flowed and changed from roller bearing to normal oil bearing. TROUBLE IS the oil supply line was not modified to supply a lot more oil to suit the oil bearings! The std oil supply line has a restriction in the banjo fitting on the block to suit the reduced amount of oil required for roller bearing. So I have now drilled out the banjo restricter so it will get full flow when it goes back on soon after being refitted with the largest flowing T4 comp wheel. But I have retained the std small turbine housing with the backcut wheel for good low down response - hope it wont choke, but have a full 3" custom dump to 3" cat and 3" S/S exhaust.

"The older I get, the faster I went!"

Thanks SK, I always wondered if in the real world 1PSI=10kW? By your example it looks like a reasonable rule of thumb. Now if I can just pump 50PSI into my RB20DET, I should be able to do 10's

OK - interested in seeing some good closeup pics on construction quality inside and out.

I am interested if suits r32 GTS and has sep WG pipe? Any pics?

Tom, on reflection I think the above advice is probably best, as I have seen GTR Inj. for sale around $350 and I paid $110 EACH for my RX7's Used but Cleaned Etc. :Oops: Two years ago it seemed reasonable but not now!

Got any decent photos of these? I'm interested.

Depending on how much power you plan to make should be the guide, but I think that RX7 hi impedance units flow 550cc and drop straight in. The standard plugs will also connect as long as you cut the small plastic keyway from inide the inj. socket - takes a few min with a boxcutter. At least this is what I have done to my RB20 and looking for 250kW which these inj. would handle.

No, you can have different widths front and back but the tyres you use have to have the SAME ROLLING Diameter. So its just a matter of getting the right aspect ratio of the tyres correct. Its the same if you get a partly flat tyre, the torque gauge tells you something is not right by running quarter way on constantly.

Howard at Race Brakes in Nth Melb. Just near start of Tulla Fwy.

Thanks, SK If I can make 12's with only 210AWkW I will gladly reduce my expectations and COST Its easy to throw numbers around and 250 didnt sound too much to expect from reading ZOOM etc. on their experience with RB20's. The Auto has been completely rebuilt with kevlar clutches , 2800RPM Stall etc so should do the job and handle any power the RB20 can throw at it. AS my GTS4 is reg as a GTR I probably should put an RB26 in it and have an Auto GTR! :throwup:

Thanks guys, doing a great job. Now I have a genuine car club membership for my CAMS renewal overdue 2 weeks :Oops:

It is - at least the only one in Australia is. -Owned by a US Pilot that come over here to fly for Ansett after the pilots strike. Bob Hawke himself approved the importation of the car and subsequent use on Aust. roads WITHOUT CURRENT REGO! -Just some special paperwork. Met the owner at an Ansett BBQ who told me all about it many years ago. AWD is available in the US and kicks most nissan and other :Oops: butt. Hey, I own a Starion as well.

Have you got a K&N oiled filter? Sometimes the MAF gets coated in oil and gunk and needs to be cleaned off. I usually spray with metho and light with gas lighter to get rid of it all. -Carefully! Also have you changed your fuel filter? If not, do it.

SK, I dont know how you find the time to contribute so much to this forum! Thank the great spartan air god you do! My question is, if my AUTOMATIC GTS4 made 170 RWKW (AWD fuses Pulled) on the dyno and ran 14.1@98Mph(0-60/2.6) at the drags, what sort of AWD KW do I need to make to get into the high 12's?? And, what would the difference in times be between AWD and RWD(fuses pulled) if I did manage to make 250 AWKW? (My long term goal for my Stock bottom end RB20)

Just be careful not to pry the head unless you are 100% sure you have taken out ALL the bolts. (And drained the coolant ) The main bolts are obvious but there are a 3or 4 small bolts on the corners that are NOT! There is also a lage bolt at the front in side ways near the Steering pump mount if I remember correct. If all the bolts are out it will come off fairly easy so be careful and dont force it too much unless you are sure. Damned if I know how I am going to remember to get it all back together again. :Oops: