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dbm7

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Everything posted by dbm7

  1. dbm7
    If shift solenoid A is bad, that explains limp mode --- now you're in the same position as I mentioned previously, in that the next step is to confirm loom/wiring integrity from TCU to gearbox connector with a multimeter (the TCU cannot detect a broken wire, which can happen ..ie; rodent damage, loom rubbed through)...and then finally measure resistance (at the gearbox connector) for shift solenoid A ... ...once you confirm shift solenoid A is bad (open circuit, really low or greater than 40ohm resistance), then it's a job ; you have buy a complete solenoid set, get under the car and drop transmission oil pan, and remove valvebody assembly (the solenoids sit on top), replace solenoid set, and reassemble....it's not exactly a fun task, but readily doable.
  2. dbm7
    Yeah, they're pretty dumb though...ie; they'll throw a solenoid error if the solenoid is dead, shorted, wiring is open circuit, or even if the driver transistor has failed (they can't self-diagnose much, they can only test inputs/outputs)... but if you wanted to try, I believe it's this protocol....(uses a long pulse indicator with short pulse counter)...
  3. dbm7
    Yeah...I always start at the shift solenoids, because there's only a few reasons these will spook into limp mode, and bad shift solenoids is one ~ the other can be the shift control module (if you have steering wheel shift buttons)...it's easier to eliminate the solenoids first.
  4. dbm7
    Aye, it has been pretty good since the shift ~ I just want access to the wiki ..again.. (now the mediawiki stuff has been updated), to get it all straightened out with consistent presentation (I talked to Session about it, turns out the mediawiki version was largely at fault..and pages created with older versions, etc etc)...I've basically given up asking, never get a reply...bit sad...but it is what it is.
  5. dbm7
    From the OP's description, sounds to me like the TCU is in 'limp home' mode --- that is, no actuation power to shift solenoids, and the EPC valve is shut (full line pressure). This effectively sticks the box in 3rd gear, with as much line pressure as possible, to try hold the high clutch clamped shut....and so you get woeful acceleration and don't feel any shifts (because they're not happening). If you don't have Consult or some other scanner to interrogate the TCU itself, you can test with a multimeter to see if it's in limp home mode....ie; stick it in D with engine at idle (hold vehicle with hand/foot brake), and measure the voltage at the TCU feeding shift solenoids A & B -- both should be ON (battery voltage). If they are energized at the TCU, you can unplug the harness from the TCU, and check resistance down through the wiring to the solenoids themselves -- you should see about 20ohms on each coil --- if you do, you can presume the wiring to shift solenoids is OK -- if both measure open circuit, you have to check intermediate connectors in the loom down to the gearbox (and the gearbox connector itself), and check the shift solenoid resistance at the gearbox connector itself --- if the shift solenoids test open circuit here, problem is in the box (ether the solenoids or wiring to them is bad). If you get no voltage at TCU connector for the shift solenoids (and the solenoids/wiring test OK), check powers/grounds to the TCU itself --- if they're ok, it suggests the TCU is the culprit (and you'd need to interrogate it if possible, to find out why it's behaving badly)...
  6. dbm7
    Just FTR, I see this morning the site is up again ~ dunno what was wrong, or if @niZmO_Man worked some magic (thanks if you did)...either way, good to see it back (although by the sounds of it, the future is undefined)...it almost makes me wonder if R31SkylineClub should be incorporated here somehow?... 😃
  7. dbm7
    Sounds good ~ keep me posted
  8. dbm7
    Oh...I have the electric mirrors as well iirc ...they're in the same state as just about every other R31 door mirrors, with the 3 plastic screw towers broken/cracked in the plastic molding. All the interior is 'dry', so the mirror switches etc likely all work fine. Some pics below of the trimmer pieces ~ looks to me like previous owner, painted chrome finished trims with black paint ...ergo, the chrome underneath is likely a-ok... ...starts to look yukky posting stuff like this, how much did it cost in fuel on your last sortie up this way?...me just thinking aloud, borrow someone else's 4cyl to cut costs, come do your own pick'n'pull like before to save me some bother...hehe.. but whatever, I'll just earmark bits I know you want, because the way this is all panning out, I'll be able to retire the R31 from daily duty at long last, replacing it with a Subaru wagon I'm lining up in the wings...ergo, my attitude towards the donor pinny shell is starting to wane a bit, and I'm more than happy to help you out there... Like you say though, no rush...and I'll guarantee we won't be moving too far from this locale at any rate 😎
  9. dbm7
    Yep, all good ~ the spare AC fan here, I think has a dead armature segment (I didn't pull it apart to verify, as there's plenty of AC fans out there that can be fitted to the R31)...I'll get some pics of the exterior trim pieces...
  10. dbm7
    Ahh right, I did offer to help, but been a bit lax wrt donations...sigh... perhaps the roller door has finally run down...
  11. dbm7
    ..could be worse... but out here, renting private affords some luxuries ...we've even been told the Sept dateline isn't critical, and I'd rather move stuff in the cool of winter, than slogging it out in the heat. Recall we were talking about the million dollar view this place has?...that's what he got for it... (won't be so nice when the quarry happens at the back in the future...lol..)... ...cool, I'll stick the wiper motor in a wee box...umm.... the pinny is GLX trim ~ I think that's about as close as it gets to Silo spec when it comes to the S2 pinny...ie; electric mirrors etc etc...dunno about the trip computer/wiring...I do electronics repair, I'd be willing to take a look at it for you. As you saw, all the dash is there in that car..and thinking about it, it'd be easier to pull the whole center section out, rather than just the ashtray and rails, but your call...
  12. dbm7
    Just got back from a week away out west, and it seems the R31 forum isn't responding ~ I know there's a lot of AI/bot scraping causing problems on da'net at the moment, so dunno what's going on. I'm actually more concerned about another member on there, I've been trying to help rebuild his automatic box... no idea where he's up to in the build, frustrating, a bit it is.... Anyone got any news?
  13. dbm7
    Howdy ~ got that wiper motor out, all good ....also, replied to your post in the R31forum wrt ashtray and rails ...but I've been away for a week, and getting home, that site's not responding, so posting here for FYI... ...also, our mate sold this place last week (that was a surprise to come home to), so we've got until Sept. or so to move out ~ needless to say, if you want any other bits off that R31 pinny donor, now's the time to claim them 😃 Good to see that carpet piece finding a home...that was a bit of a score 😎
  14. dbm7
    Steering rack might be full of water, same with gearbag....
  15. dbm7
    ..m'kay.... I see on my phone you're having difficulties interpreting the artfully hand drawn R31 wiring diagrams... you wouldn't credit it, but they're actually more accurate than those colour diagrams in gregory's and the like... ...for your purposes though, the wiring colour legend is on sheet 1.... ....the fuel pump connector is top right on sheet 2.... ...pin1 (black) goes to chassis ground -- pin5 (light green/red trace)... The best way to navigate those drawings, is to open them up in whatever image manipulation/paint program you like, and use the straight line/ruler tool (with a highlight colour) to trace along the wire lines...not hard, no rocket science involved... Fun facts: The OEM diagrams are drawn to top trim level spec ~ so for example, you're looking at Silo spec wiring, but the base S3 Executive trim is also covered by the same drawing (base models just don't have all the add-on luxury bits) One of the more sublime bits of errata, is this bit... The wire splice between pins7,14 doesn't exist (red) -- the bridge on the cluster PCB between the same pins (green) does exist...but it's not 'there' physically...it's actually more towards the center of the PCB, exactly at the spot where they tend to crack...and if it does, only half the dash lights work... can drive you nuts chasing it ; don't ; just solder in the missing splice... These are 'intentional' soldered and taped splices inside the loom(s) ~ there's also unintentional splices like this, due to manufacturing process when a spool of one particular coloured wire runs out, and they splice in/on a new spool. Those splices above are in the loom, LHS, underneath the front guard panel (remove to get at loom)... if water's gotten into the looms, you can expect corrosion at these splices ... keep this stuff in mind, if in the future you get any weird electrical faults... 👍
  16. dbm7
    Oh for sure, I'm just recounting my thoughts 😎 I'm not what you've got there to fuzt with.... likely my first idea was on the money -- rebuild or replace connectors. You can get a lot of connector stuff here -> https://www.rapidcables.com.au/ Didn't look in the boot of mine, because I replaced these when I renewed the pump (plastic of connectors had gone brittle) edit: what I used... https://www.efihardware.com/products/2120/Deutsch-DTM-Connector-Kit-6-Pin ...cheaper... https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364900039138
  17. dbm7
    Just got back from a little hands-on with a G58 Baron....I was thinking about this... ..best I can figure it, that pinny was tail-ended ...I didn't really think about the wiring, because all that mattered was the tank and pump cradle (I think I mentioned the pump itself I couldn't vouch for)...which didn't matter, as you said you'd be replacing the pump anyway.... ...'for some reason'....and I imagine this is the panel shop's doing... they've replaced the cradle wiring with a metre of 7-core trailer loom, and attached the loom plug (from a different car) to that. The actual cable run from the top of the pump cradle, to fuel pump harness end in boot, is maybe 60cm in length...so I've no idea why they did this... ....the connector in the boot of the pinny, is not going to help you here...because in theory, it should still be present on your car. On top of that, because they've done what they did, we have no idea which colours of the trailer cabling, have been connected to what on the fuel pump cradle (pump +/- , shield, fuel guage/low-level senders)... ...this means, best approach is to remove the pump cradle, and re-work it now ...not later. That is, if you were going to replace the pump, do it, replace the soft lines at the same time...and sort the wiring out (replace that trailer cable with the wiring loom off your old cradle)...
  18. dbm7
    Obviously he got here on Monday, we managed not to hurt ourselves ....fuel tank looks far more useful now (instead of sitting in an unused car like it has been), but there's so much more to do... @25RBGT Forgot to say, if you need anything else off that car, just let me know...
  19. dbm7
    It's a fun job...did a little write-up here --> https://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=159279.105 FTR, smoothed the idle out and the rb30 was more responsive...manifold vacuum at idle came up a bit (likely the base Orings leaking), and spark-plug colours evened out. An interesting little test, is to grab an eye-dropper/pipette and put a couple of drops of petrol in the old gauze filter, same again with new ones...see how long it takes to drip through 😃 Thing is the results are inconclusive because I replaced the injector connectors and fitted the intake runner spacer at the same time...but when you see & test the old gauze filters, there's little doubt this would've pushed fueling a little bit towards the thin side... ...btw... https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/2891341l00 ....washer bottle cap, still available last time I checked.
  20. dbm7
    https://www.autolinkparts.com.au/fuel-injector-o-ring-repair-kit-suit-nissan-skylin~46615 Fits many of the circa 1980s Bosch injectors. The gauze screen eventually gets (partially) restricted with fuel deposits, new base seal & Oring (they go hard), and the spray hole in the plastic pintle cap erodes after decades in service.
  21. dbm7
    You should throw rebuild kits at the injectors while they're out...they pretty much need it anyhow at this age in life.. 😃
  22. dbm7
    Did you check/clean out the Aux air valve & plumbing between it and the IACV and manifold?...
  23. dbm7
    Suggest pulling the rear bumper and side garnish panels off, the silt's likely gotten in there...
  24. dbm7
    He managed to find me over on R31SkylineClub forum ~ he'll be headed up here whenever to pull the good fuel tank (and other bits and pieces) from my spare S2 pinny parts car... should help the project & keep costs down 😃
  25. dbm7
    Needs to be done for presentation's sake ~ especially the wiki, with talk some time ago suggesting the forum might go, and only the wiki being maintained. I've only been after that update since around 2018 or so, maybe I have to wait for the 10year anniversary 😃
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