Mik

Yep...that's very true. One problem though. The tolerences you are talking about are tiny. One hundredth of a thousandth of an inch (0.000001") is 0.000254mm which is a quater of a 10 thousandth of a mm. No one can measure to that tolerance with mechanical instruments. Every race engine builder I have ever spoken too (including one that builds top fuel engines) would be more than happy with +/- 0.05 thou on a 2 thou clearance.

20k really isn't that much when you talk about big power. Ask someone who's built an 800hp 350 Chev how much it owes them. Also, there are no right and wrong clearances...it all comes down to a comprimise and a judgment call.

oopsy...I meant 293. I thought the blocks were more than that? 3700 is cheap for an N1 and I alwqays thought the 05U's were only a few hundred cheaper.

If you put an RB30 in a GTR with any big sort of power, see how long it takes to crack the block. An RB30 block wasn't desgned to have the load of a front diff hanging of the bottom of it. I know of a few people that have tried to run decent power with them and they don't last. A bread and butter BNR32 05U block will handle 700-800PS any day. And anyone that thinks that RB30s don't exist in Japan is kidding themselves. There are squillions of them, but they started life in forklifts / generators and earth moving equipment. I reckon they are a good option in a rear drive skyline or maybe in a reasonable mild GTR...but not for any serious power. And what you say about the Giken engine not having spot on clearances...what is spot on? Were they too big or too small? Bearing clearances or piston to bore? I reckon they would be set up with about 2 thou on the bore and 1.8-2 thou on the bearings. I know Tomei build big power engines in Japan with 2 thou on the mains, 1.8 on the big ends and 2 thou on the pistons. Most people would call that too small for a big power engine, but they do last...and you wouldn't even know it has forged pistons. And you think that 20k is expensive for a decent engine? Try to buy the parts for it...a decent crank is 5 grand plus. Another 4 grand for a run of the mill nissan block, a couple of grand to get it sleeved. Add another 2.5g for decent yankee rods. Pistons and rings of any sort are $1500. Then you've got all the fastners and spacer plate. Then you've got the machining costs and the labour to assemble it. And have you ever seen some of the Japanese assembly rooms? Climate controlled to 273K and 1 atm pressure. Absolutely spotless with assemblers in white coats. And then you say the clearances weren't spot on?

(Use this as a guide for new threads. Delete and/or copy the fields as needed - dont forget to add your location in the description field above. Delete this message) Item: NISMO GTR Fuel pump Location:Sydney (but will post) Item Condition:As new Reason for Selling:I need a bigger pump now Price and Payment Conditions:$290 Contact Details: PM or call/sms 0419 126 206 Sorry...edit due to wrong phone number

(Use this as a guide for new threads. Delete and/or copy the fields as needed - dont forget to add your location in the description field above. Delete this message) Item: NISMO 600cc injectors Location: Sydney (but will post) Item Condition: Excellent (not much use) Reason for Selling: They are too small for me now Price and Payment Conditions: $590 Extra Info: These should be good for about 600-650PS at the flywheel and were running at about 85% duty on my old setup which was good enough for an 11.3@125 mph in a heavy BCNR33. Contact Details: PM or call/sms 0419 126 206

Nope Nismo AFMs and the stock airbox. I don't think it would have this much mid range with wild cams like that.

Can anyone recomend a spark plug to use in an RB26 that's running a reasonable amount of boost and making quite a bit of power? Currently running 0.4mm Denso Iridiums with a 22 heat range (equiv to NGK 7s). I think I will go for 8 heat range, but I'm not sure which plugs to use. Has anyone used Iritops? What's the difference between Iritops, Iriways and Iridium IX? Thanks in Advance

I don't really care about the numbers to tell you the truth (although the torque one is interesting). So your car only made 319 at CRD? That's so odd...after what you made at SMW, and speaking to Jason, I would have expected heaps more than that. Also, Tommy's car made 330ish at CRD irc and a bit under 300 on Bel's dyno in the same state of tune. I'm more worried about the shape of the curve and how it drives, which is why we spend a couple of hours on the freeway cleaning up the spool-up. I'll go to the drags eventually, it will be a while though because I'm flat out with work atm.

Why would traction be an issue? It's only got 370rwkw... :lol: Seriously though...traction is not too bad, but I do have pretty sticky 275s all round and it does like to randomly break traction in 2nd when it comes on boost. Nick...to be honest, I though 700s would be okay. They are about as big as I would like to go on a daily driven car. I'm also running a bit more rail pressure than I would like. Also something to note is that the torque figures estimated by these dynologs are apparently pretty accurate....just ask Morgs and WilliamsF1.

I wish it made all of it's power by 5100RPM! The aim was not to make peak power anyway, but to get the most area under the curve. I'm still running the useless laggy peaky GTRS turbos, but somehow, they don't seem so laggy now. Oh...and the dip towards the top of the rev range is wheelspin on the rollers.

They will make a slaping noise.

Rolled my car onto Bel Garage's dyno yesterday. I have attached torque and power curves. The most we saw was about 990nm and 390rwkw, but my injectors were more than maxed at that level, so we took out a bit of boost.

You're really not going to see much in a photo. They are just 2 unmarked as new cam shafts. If you are ready to comitt to purchasing, I will take some photos for you.

SK...when you say 9.8mm clears, do you mean cams with a smaller base circle? I know on my head, there was next to no clearance (about 0.5mm) with 9.15mm PONCAMS.

Yep...even the 9.7mm won't fit without releiving the head (on some engines at least). Jun are the only 9.7mm lift cams I know of and they run a 31mm base circle, which makes things a pain if you want to change cams, because you will need to reshim every bucket. (unless you find some other cams with 31mm base circle.

Item: Tomei PONCAMs type B (260 Deg IN & EX) suit RB26 Location: Sydney, but will freight Item Condition: As new (done literally 1000kms and are still coated with the black manganese coating that Tomei put there for initial lubrication. Reason for Selling: Change of mind Price and Payment Conditions: $850 Contact Details: PM, or email, or call 0419 126 206. Calling is best.

Depending on brand, you can run 10.25mm without relieving the head, but there is no way I'd do that on stock springs.

It depends on the brand, some yes, others no

Can anyone tell me what type of fluid to use in the atessa system? (i.e. the resovoir in the boot)? Nissan reccomend 'type D' is DEXRON III okay? How much does the whole system hold? cheers

Hey Ben. send an email to CP in the states telling them where you plan to buy them from. They can probably tell you what sort of rings you will get.

If you get CP pistons form the states, the come with Jap made rings. The ones that come from Quantum down here usually have hastings rings.

No they're not. They have the same lift and duration, but differnt lobe centre. I think only the exhaust is different though.

With solid lifters, $600 probably won't get you any more than a head service.

I have been trying to tell people that for months!!