Mik

It has had little use and is still for sale

These valves give negative pressure (vacuum) in the case. An open catch can(assuming no vacuum pump) will leave atmospheric pressure in the case. Vacuum in the sump is a good thing. It helps to keep the oil clean and the engine will make more power because the pistons do not have to displace and compress air on the way down. You could always use these valves in conjunction with a catch can.

The valves will let the blow by pressure out...

Yeah they do Pete...exactlty the same as the Tomei one I believe.

They are for cars too....and if they work as they should, then they are more likened to a vacuum pump than a catch can

Has anyone used these? http://www.et-performance.com/krank_vents.html

bump

It should be 2 thou...nowhere near 5 thou!

The donk is running very well

I would be tempted to lift the engine to do it.

Fair enough...I always assumed that Trust and HKS rods were exactly the same. I thought that HKS rods were Carillo, When I was sourcing parts for my engine, the aussie distributor (also sells Carillo) thought they were Carillo too. But he had a set of each in stock and compared them while I was on the phone and they were definately different. So...I wonder where HKS rods come from? And sorry, but I've gotten even further off topic.

Yep...just like everyone else...but their main bolts/cam studs and rod bolts for OEM rods (I think) are made by NP.

I'm just relaying what I read (or half read and was told by someonw transalting for me ) It does make alot of sense to me, becasue physically, the N! blocks don't look much different to th 05U blocks. The GT blocks do though.

My old set up (bog stock, tired 86mm bore engine) and GTRS turbines made 1.4 kgcm^2 boost at about 4750RPM.

And why's that?

haha...there is nothing on the box...do you want to see it? Your welcome to drive down to sydney and take a look. And the pistons and rods definately came in a seperate box.

Whatever mate...When did I talk about the airbox?? And I don't answer to capitals. For anyone else that want to know...boost on that run was 1.45bar.

Thanks for replying...this is getting interesting. The 4wd adapters I have seen are nothing more than an adaptor plate. All that bracing would probably mittigate the problem with the weaker block. I've never hardness tested the blocks, so I can't say. But I would say that the hardness would vary from one 05U to another due to different age, history, batch etc. Specific gravity is easy to measure...not too sure if a delta would mean much though. Chinese rods are much cheaper than US made ones. True...not much labour involved in making them, but the steel they use is much cheaper than the yanks use. My crank was definately made in Japan and I know for certain that Toda and Tomei cranks are also made in Japan. Almost every rod on earth uses American fastners. Even Tomei rods (made by arrow precision in the UK) use ARP fastners. Out of interest, what brand rods can you get for that money? Yep...japs sure do make decent bolts...Nagoya Precision comes to mind. Tomei / jun bolts are made by them. I didn't know you could get Carillo rods without fastners. Are they finsihed, or do you have to hone them to size? In Japan 9 second cars run at illegal drags in the indusrtial areas every weekend.

Carefactor = 0 Sorry mate but I can't be bothered trawling through hundreds of mags that I can't even read just to make you happyTake my comment with a grain of salt...doesn't bother me in the slightest.

No they don't. The BOVs are just in parallel.

It's a forged semi counter 73.7mm Jap crank of unknown origin.

The N1, GT and RB-X blocks actually do have higher mangesium content than the 05U blocks. I can't remember the conventrations, but I think the Jap magazine I saw it in did list them.

okay... 1. By serious power, I meant 700-800ps. I have never tried it, but from what I have heard from a couple of people who have, the blocks crack around the ribs at the bottom. They seem to now like the stress off the from diff bolted to the bottom of the block. Not sure if all RB30 blocks afre the same??? I reckon an RB30 would be good in a street driven 500-600hp GTR with 2430s / 2860s / groups A turbos to make the same power as it would with a 2.6 with a lot less revs. Whether or not it is worth the hassle of fitting, I don't know. 2. See above post 3. See 1. 4. A hyundai Excel engine would hold the weight of the sump/diff, but what about the torsional load? 5. Never cut one up, but have had a good look. They are quite different. Also, the RB26 blocks have a different metalurgy...higher Mg content. 6. Your prices are interesting. A US$2000 forged crank is a bargain. Had I known that, I may have taken a different route with my engine build. The cheaoest US made pistons / rings I could find were about US$160 a pop. $110 a pop for rods is dirt cheap...they must be Chinese for that?? What brand? Carillo / Pauter / Crower / Arrow are far more than that. Your comment about the Jap agreements is an intersting one. I too used to believ that the Jap gear came from the states, but I have seeen severl Jap branded cranks that are stamped with made in Japan. It's a common concensus that HKS/Trust rods are Carillos, but they are not. They use ARP fasteners and speak to Mr Carillo himslelf...he will not touch ARP...only SPS. Similarly, Tomei pistons are very different to anything form the states. Nice long skirts, made for 2 thou clearances. The bloke that bored my block was so impressed with the pistons that he wanted to know if they made anything to suit a 350 Chev for his sprint car engines. 7. Agreed, but the GT block is supposedly even better. I agree with you fully about the rod ratio, which is why I was thinking about using custom rods and pistons to get a bigger rod ratio for my engine. But, when it somes down to it...the Jap stroker kits happily rev to 11krpm plus and don't smash piston skirts. Again a 350 chev builder would laugh at you if you told them you can do that with a 1.6 rod ratio. The big problem with the 38mm spacer is how do you fit it in the car? I know there is no chance in a BCNR33 or BNR34, never really had a close enough look on a BNR32 though. I'm not real keen on droping the sub frame.

Sorry mate...was at work and didn't have time to reply fully...will do later. Yep...that much variation would be adsolutely shocking. But I'm not sure how you could get it that bad even if you tried. Nissan work to 3 one thousandths of a mm tolerance which is about a 10 thousandth of an inch. I assume Giken use a new block, so the tunnel would be fine. Don't know what bearings they use, but even the aussie ACLs I used measured up pretty good (less than 0.005mm variation in shell thickness). I'm guessing if someone truely did strip a Giken short engine and rebuilt due to bad clearances, I think they would have been of the opinion that 2 thou (assuming that's even what they use) is too small. Most people form the old school laugh at you when you tell them you will be running 8000rpm and 700hp with 1.8 thou clearances. Just another interesting point. The guy we use to do cranks checked my new jap crank fro starightness befiore I used it. He said it is the straightest new crank he has ever seen out of the box. He said that most yankee cranks ( mostly v8s) usuallly have a couple of thou runout.

Why does 30 grade mono running in oil (and 20/50 for that matter) have the consistency of water when you pour it out of the bottle?