BuzLightyear

I had a similar problem.... Just for the purposes of eliminating the wheel balance, get an 'on car' wheel balance done. I have heard stories of guys doing all the things you've done, only to have the problem disappear after getting alignment checked and wheels balanced on the car.

So when do the the valve clearances get done - at 100k allso?

Somebody recently reported here that gearbox notchiness was improved by switching to Castrol VMX80. I also have had some degree of notchiness which was really anoying me. I gave the mechanic a drive of my car, which still shifts down quite smoothly, and he was not sure of the cause, that is, whether the synchros were a bit worn or not.I have an R32 which I've only had for a few weeks. When I went to change the oil, I chose VMX80 and decided to give it a Nulon teflon treatment as well, but the filler plug had siezed in the housing, and so I had to give it to the mechanic (Gavin Wood at Autotech here on the Gold Coast). He put the Nulon in, but forgot to put in the VMX80 and instead used his usual fare - a 75/90 of some sort. Result - no improvement. Today, I decided to drain that mix and just try the VMX80. It has improved the notchiness somewhat, but more importantly because the box now shifts so much easier the notchiness itself now seems a lot less of a problem.... if that makes any sense. I recall that I had a similar problem with my wife's Corolla. I put 80/90 into it and the box was no better, but switching to a straight 80 as per the manufacturer's recommendations made things somewhat better. Now I'm going to stay with the 80 weight, but also add the teflon treatment to see if it improves further still.

I only bought my r32 two weeks ago, and am running it on Castrol R (5w30) - just like the good book done told me to. After the motor is hot, my oil pressure gauge at idle (600rpm) is showing zero - zip, nought, nuffink. If I turn the engine off, the gauge doesn't even dip further. I haven't had a red oil light and the car is running fine. Is this stuff just too thin or wot?

Can somebody tell me about turbo timers - how they work and how to choose one, etc. I'm looking at an ad that has a Pivot super baby for $120, and others varying up to a Blitz at $325 - doesn't make sense to me. Why do you need to spend another $200 just to have something to switch off your engine?

I only just bought my car two weeks ago and was recommended to AutoTech (Gavin Wood) - this is at the fabuloue Gold Coast (?) where I live. Took my car there the other day - very impressed. This guy is a Skyline specialist, and I understand a lot of Skyline owners on the Caost go to him.