shif_tea

Hmmmm, one thought actually mate. The way you have done it might give you a fairly dodgy earth. Just because it looks like you have just fed it through into the clip and it might not be making a good contact. This could possibly cause the solenoid to open and close sporadically and cause compressor surge. This is a stretch but i can't for the life of me figure out any other reason for it. If you were to strip back some of the wire and solder the new ground directly on it to make sure you get a really good earth it might work fine then

i wouldn't think so mate. If it only reached 1 bar it should be fine. A lot of people run there's at 14psi and although it will shorten the turbo life, one boost spike up to that shouldn't really affect it at all. Still wanna know how the f**k this can occur though, i'm stumped

To me that doesn't make sense. As i understand it the solenoid is pretty much either open closed. It closes to keep boost at stock 5psi before 4500rpm, then after that the ecu grounds the negative side, completing the circuit and opening solenoid valve to increase boost to 7psi (bleeds an extra 2psi through) So by grounding the negative side (whether you sever the actual wire or not) the solenoid should stay open, to keep a constant 7psi. All that will happen with the wire still connected but a constant earth also connected is that above 4500rpm the ecu will ground the solenoid via a second point, making zero difference to boost or the solenoids state. More likely theres something wrong with your wastegate or solenoid valve. Does boost stay smooth and sit at its proper position without this mod done?? Although if someone knows i'm totally wrong please tell me cause i'd like to understand how this is happening.

you can just tap into it if you want, shouldn't make any difference cause it'll just ground along 2 paths then when the car reaches 4500 rpm. prolly easier just to cut and ground, but won't matter really.

Sheesh, talk about giving me a complex!! If you guys keep this up i will no longer be wearing the bikini's to whore meets and social gatherings!!!

*jumps out of cake in pink bikini*

Happy birthday wil!! I have a terrible singing voice so i won't do it to you! Have a good day! EDIT: oh...and Mona....whats a "Nest Year"????

yeah sidchrome has lifetime replacement warranty as well. Got a big socket set of theirs and a few other things, excellent quality, and i think that their cheaper than snap on too, but not positive/

Got back from overseas this morn and checked out the split dump. Looks really nice, can't wait to have it installed. Thanks again BATMBL

yay mines on its way (or might be there already) I'm in malaysia at the moment so i'll post about it when i get back next week! thanks batmbl

ummmm what mods, what turbo....important info if you want that answer...

its necessary at around 200rwkw, but it would pay to replace it anyway. I've heard people have some problems with mounting bosch pumps intank as they sometimes have trouble sucking fuel with surge when the level gets low. However there are a lot of people using them to good effect and the price is right on them. I'd probably go GTR pump or tomei/nismo. All will direct fit, flow enough for over 300rwkw and aren't that much more expensive... just my 2c EDIT: retune shouldn't be required

Had exactly the same thing about 3 weeks after fitting new coil packs....turned out the mechanic hadn't pushed on one of the coil pack connectors properly and it had popped off during driving, but not all the way. Just making contact occassionally. Might pay to just remove and replug all plugs and reseat.

i've heard of a few guys with very little mechanical knowledge installing these themselves, it will be pretty easy, just a bit of a pain in the ass. Have to watch for broken bolts etc, and if they do break they'll need to be drilled out. Soak em in WD40 or something similar for a while beforehand to try and free them up.

ditto!! + Paid. NOw looking foward to turbo not being choked!

shit another one! Good luck to the guy!

No i wouldn't, its up to them to provide the warranty on that if they sourced and installed it, so the time it took to diagnose that the pump THEY installed was faulty, is up to them to foot. Of course the original installation and pump price would still have to be paid.

Hi BATMBL, do you still want to wait till after 29th to accept payment seeing as though the numbers are full?? Cheers

Have a read of this and it might give some hints http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=64201

CRD, Unigroup engineering, SAS Automotive have all good really good reps, but are in syd. Shouldn't have to get it trailered, either run with stock ecu to shop then plug in, or base maps should be fine to get it there i thought. http://www.croydonracingdevelopments.com/about_us.htm http://www.unigroup.com.au/

I didn't really have an interest in this until certain people come in mouthing off and living up to their login name. I personally couldn't give the slightest care about my postcount, but some others do so why make it an issue? I'm sure its not really a problem to have the server store a postcount with a few more digits...

i'm in R33 GTST. Cheers

man thats shit hot!! Think i might have to have a chat to this guy. My car is in SERIOUS need of a full respray...

he paid em to say that

I've done that mate, have Slotted rotors on the front and stockies on the rear as fronts needed replacing anyway. Works a treat, i asked the same question before i did it and everyone said it was fine to do.