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CEF11E

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Posts posted by CEF11E

    ECU remap

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    With a bigger fuel pump and coils all sorted out you should see 160-180 rwkw with your combination if u run 1 bar :D

    will "feel like a huge power increase" one the ecu is retuned.

    Speak to Toshi on these forums he has done my ECU and did a fantastic job. he has all the equipment to do it properley and will give you a few tuning options too :)

    he charges $250 and its the cheapest power gain you will ever get!

    cheers

    rb20 rebuild budget

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    ceffie that motor was pretty good 12 months ago it had the head off and it was checked only had aroudn 70000 klms then and the car had 100 and something dont spend the cash till it blows if you want to run up to 200- 220 bolt in an rb 25 there are alot of good reasons for this namely  the injectors will handel that much power its torquier etc.

    the reason it has a little bit less power than the other cefs is the motor is from an r32 not a cefiro ceffies have bigger cams

     

    yes I'm pretty sure it was my old black ceff

    cheers

    meggala

    Hi Megalla ;) yep its your old car i just didnt want to bug you too much :rofl: i didnt want to ask you every little detail of the car as its not your problem anymore.

    Yeah the engine still seems fine except when i am maximum throttle and rev it to 7k then change gears and give it gas it pings just a little untill the revs get back up over 5k and then its fine.

    I have had the A/F ratios checked and they are fine.

    mods i have done since having the car

    FMIC 600 x 300 + waterspray kit

    new injectors just cleaned and flowtested

    RB25 turb slightly hiflowed

    turb back exhaust 3" "with cat thistime" hehe!

    oil catch can

    custom air intake/box

    bigger fuel pump

    Did u do any work on the bottom end Steve? or did you just replace the burnt valve?

    Cheers mate :rant:

    what r u driving now?

    Ceffy 0-100 times

    in Four Door Family

    Posted

    I have done mine a couple of times,

    my best time was 4.9 That was on a really good road with Advan tyres.

    since then i have shitty falkens and my time has gone back to 5.5 - 5.9 depending on tyre pressure. my crazy japanese freind thinks i am getting good times due to the suspension setup?

    I always thought my car was slow because i find it hard to break traction in a straight line.

    is 4.9 THAT good?

    rb20 rebuild budget

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    I would like to know how much i should budget to rebuild my rb20.

    there is nothing wrong with it apart from a few ks on it.

    I just want to do a propper rebuild and need to know what to do

    I guess get the block chemically cleaned and honed machining journals? how much?

    have pistons balanced do i need new pistons? how much?

    get the rods balanced?

    rod bolts?

    bearings, rings, gaskets, valves, springs

    having never undertaken a rebuild i dont know how much to budget.

    I want the bottom ent to cope with 210-220 rwkw so nothing to special

    can anyone recommend a place in sydney that will do the lot for me? ie drop off motor pick up rebuilt later?

    can you save cash doing some work yourself?

    thanks

    Injector cleaning

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Actually, Nathan @ Grey Imports mentioned this to me but yesterday: to quote him "get your injectors cleaned because you loose a lot of power if they're dirty".

    It might also be worthwhile buying a couple of "rebuild kits" (ie kits that contain the little rubber seals).

    LW.

    Nathan cleaned mine for me, he has a nifty machine that does the job.

    take it to him he is in Annandale.

    took about an hour to get em cleaned and he is a very freindly guy full of good advice. He cleaned mine for $120. depending on the condition/type they might be more.

    I am hopeless writing guides so i cant help there much.

    1.you need to remove 2 bolts one on the front and one on the back of the fuel rail.

    2. remove the fuel supply and retiur lines from the rail/regulator assembly

    3. remove the bolt from the bracket that supports the rail at front under regulator

    4. remove injector clips, i did this with tiny long nose pliers, then unplug all the injectors. dont worry about marking them they are all labled.

    5. you can now wiggle the fuel rail out about 40mm. you need to take out injector 5 and 6 to get the rail out from under the plenum.

    slide the rail out and check the grommets are NOT on the injector bottoms over the pintle cap. make sure there is a grommet in every hole in the plenum.

    wiggle out the injectors from the fuel rail. put them in a clean plastic container and take them to cleaning place.

    PUTTING EM BACK IN...

    when putting injectors in the rail be very careful to push evenly as not to squash the o rings.

    put in injector 1, 2, 3, 4 Slide the rail back in place.

    once in place replace injector 5 and 6. this is quite hard.

    PLUGS!

    injector 6 comes from the main harness. injector 5 comes from the wires on the fuel rail and 4, 3, 2, 1 cone from the injector harness and are labled. replace all the clips.

    push the injerctors into holes in plenum and bolt the rail in place.

    connect up the fuel supply and return lines and bolt the bracket back into place.

    repressurise the rail by turning the car back to "on" check for leaks...

    drink cold beer and tell your mates how cool you are cause you fix your own car:)

    Drift places in Syd...

    in Four Door Family

    Posted

    hel yeah!

    there is one on the 20th of november and i will be there...

    :rave:

    we should cet a full on cefiro crew there. that would OWN! last time i was there there were like 100 dudes wanting to look at the car. Infact lets get some chicks in bikinis to come and stand around our cars too!

    Injector cleaning

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    oooh, i dont envy you they are a bitch to take out on the rb25...

    on the rb20 its just the 2 bolts that hold on the fuel rail, 2 fuel lines, injector plugs and the master feed injector power line. you dont need to take the plenum off :)

    here is a pic for those of you who are not scared.

    injektaz.JPG:D:(:D

    Injector cleaning

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    CLEAN YOUR INJECTORS!!!!!!!!!

    i just pulled mine out today, the car was running fine but i decided to replace them with a set i just had cleaned to be on the safe side.

    when i pulled out the fuel rail i got a nasty suprise. The caps on the end were cracked and the injectors were full of gunk. after flowtesting them 1 was down to 250!!! and 2 were 255. when they should all be 270.

    the new set i put in flowed at 285 each.

    the responsiveness it much better.

    if i didnt replace them the car could have leaned out and gone bang...

    if you have bought a car and not had them tested yet it only takes 1 hour to take em out and 1 hour to have em cleaned and an hour to put them back in. you dont know what condition one of the most important things for keeping your engine safe are in.

    you wouldnt drive without oil would you?

    CLEAN YOUR INJECTORS PEOPLE!!!

    here is a quick guide

    1.you need to remove 2 bolts one on the front and one on the back of the fuel rail.

    2. remove the fuel supply and retiur lines from the rail/regulator assembly

    3. remove the bolt from the bracket that supports the rail at front under regulator

    4. remove injector clips, i did this with tiny long nose pliers, then unplug all the injectors. dont worry about marking them they are all labled.

    5. you can now wiggle the fuel rail out about 40mm. you need to take out injector 5 and 6 to get the rail out from under the plenum.

    slide the rail out and check the grommets are NOT on the injector bottoms over the pintle cap. make sure there is a grommet in every hole in the plenum.

    wiggle out the injectors from the fuel rail. put them in a clean plastic container and take them to cleaning place.

    PUTTING EM BACK IN...

    when putting injectors in the rail be very careful to push evenly as not to squash the o rings.

    put in injector 1, 2, 3, 4 Slide the rail back in place.

    once in place replace injector 5 and 6. this is quite hard.

    PLUGS!

    injector 6 comes from the main harness. injector 5 comes from the wires on the fuel rail and 4, 3, 2, 1 cone from the injector harness and are labled. replace all the clips.

    push the injerctors into holes in plenum and bolt the rail in place.

    connect up the fuel supply and return lines and bolt the bracket back into place.

    repressurise the rail by turning the car back to "on" check for leaks...

    drink cold beer and tell your mates how cool you are cause you fix your own car:)

    putting rb25 turbo on rb20

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    The ceramic delaminates due to the velocity at the point it meets the metal shaft.

    example

    the turbine produces 14psi at 100,000 rpm on the rb25, (lets call this point of stress)

    then we devide 2500 by 5 20 get 2000 so we also devide 100,000 (shaft speed) by 5 fo get 80,000. So the shaft spins 20% slower to produce the same PSI.

    So if you increase the shaft speed to 100,000 on the rb20 you will be spinning it at the same speed as the rb25 but producing around 15-17 PSI

    See :D

    These figures are used as an example and do not reflect the actual speeds of the shaft.

    As the turbo has a larger compressor, It will produce more volume of air through the valves for a given PSI rating. (more airflow) at a lower temp because it is using less effort to generate the same volume.

    In my experience you almost will not notice the difference in spool up time. plus the rb20 turbo drops off at around 6000rpm but the rb25 turb pulls hard all the way to redline!

    :rave:

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