R_34
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Posts posted by R_34
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Didn't measure it as I sent the turbine housing to be coated directly when I received the turbo.
So I don't have a before/after.
I'm pretty happy of the coating on the turbo, so as soon as I have tu pull the engine for wathever reason I'll send the standard manifold too.
The effect will not be gigantic though, but I will use what I can to reduce lag and lower the boost threshold as well as reducing heat leakage in the engine bay.
Don't expect much more than 200/300 rpm improvement, especially on standard short runners manifold. The effect should be more noticeable on aftermarket manifold.
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No need for a bigger turbo then, the 25 turbo if healthy can bring you there but no more. At least not safely in the long run.
If you keep the 25 turbo I woul install a FMIC as the 25 compressor wheel is not very efficient.
AFM will be big enough, oem injectors are a tad short to be safe I guess, CA18DET injectors (370cc) with a rb26 resistor will do the job easily, on pump gas at least.
I don't know about the clutch capability. Mine was blown when I got the engine so I upgraded it directly.
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Yep they're 444cc but low impedance. You'll also need the resistor box and wire it up.
I chose the deatschwerk injectors as these ones are drop-in.
They're perfectly fine for now albeit noisy.
Idles good at a steady 15 AFR and I have something like 70% duty max @20psi.
Mines were 458cc in average, ranging from 451 to 465cc if my memory serves me right.
If I ever convert to E85 I will pick the 650cc ones.
Highflowing a turbo means replacing compressor and turbine wheel with larger parts with new bush bearing on ball bearing converison. Check with hypergear or kinugawa turbo.
I ran the kinugawa one, but I wouldn't recommand it if you're chasing the responsiveness of a stock turbo. Hypergear should have smaller turbo more suited to your liking.
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I was running bcpr6es gapped to 0.8mm with my 20 on the stock tune fmic highflow turbo 3" exhaust at 0.9b.
Went to bcpr7es gapped to 0.8mm at 1.4b once tuned.
No misfires with the oem coilpack so far, increasing the dwell during the tune didn't brought much (i didn't felt anything), so my coilpacks seems healthy.
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Ceramic coating of the manifolds and turbine housings.
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Stock ECU + nistune is fine.
No need for more if you're chasing little power.
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+1 this is a common mistake.
I have some ebay coilovers on my S13 with way too much spring for the damper. The "hardest" setting is the more comfortable one. I have the least rebound with it, but it still have too stiff springs.
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Search button will help you.
And begin with the rb20 dyno thread, there is a lot of useful info in it on what to do.
It depends of the country you live in. Some country are much more tolerant than others with modified cars.
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Vaccum leak would make it lean not rich.
And you run very rich, on cold startup I have 12 and the engine enter close loop pretty quickly if the engine sees some lights revs/work.
Blown fuel reg maybe.
Clean you AAC valve for your dying symptom after some revving.
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The best idea.
I just did it on my S13. Went from 3.916 to 4.363.
The car is way much better now, with still way too much top speed and an average cruising comfort.
With the previous diff the freeway was nicer with 300/400rpm less but as soon as the road was uphill or cruising at 90 km/h the car wouldn't accelerate in 5th gear and was barely pulling in 4th. I had to reckless drive it to get any acceleration and when the torque was there cops were the main problem because of the vastly illegal speed.
When it was ON, it was ON but I had to wait for it way too long.
With the 4.363 the car is much nicer to drive, pulls ok in 5th from 3000rpm and can manage a 270+kph.
The fuel consumption doesn't seem to have suffered from this change so far. So very happy of the change for now.
For a dedicated track car an even shorter final drive ratio wouldn't hurt.
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As said above no problem at 18 psi.
Small bore means little effort on the headstuds, you'll likely break something else before lifting the head.
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I don't really trust the factory water gauge.
Is you radiator cap in good shape ?
And your radiator ?
Does your coolant circuit go under pressure at all when hot ? Or does it have a lot of pressure in it ?
Does your viscous clutch still locks when the engine seems to run very hot ?
How old/many km the water pump is/have ?
Any symptoms of a possible overheating ?
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Why not a RB30 then ? It's has better displacement than a 25, could have the VTC as well and makes even more power and torque than a 25.
Spend a little more again and buy a RB34 spool imports strocker for even more torque power and less lag.
If your willing to spend a little extra you could make an LS1 conversion for again more power and torque everywheere on the rev range without having to wait for the boost to come.
And we went from just little mods to get noticeable gains to a >20k build in less than 20 posts.
As stated above, make your car run perfect with a good servicing.
Use it and see what you miss the most.
I've been through the chase of more power without any chassis/servicing on a CA18 in an RS13 chassis.
First thing first I broke the engine.
I rebuilt it, then began the mods.It was great, I couldn't have any fun without shitting myself because of the lack of brakes, worn-out bushes and suspensions, cheap tires on standard 15" rims.
And when the straight roads where coming I couldn't floor it because of the slipping clutch beyond 4000rpm.
My daily drive is a powerless honda prelude with a unbreakable 130hp engine in it and is plenty fun because it have suspension, big brakes, braided lines and sticky tires.
So having a car in which you can trust with a good chassis and efficient brakes is much more fun to play with than outright power.
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No factory oil cooler with a turbo is rare for what I know. As soon as it's a "performance" engine most of the time an oil cooler is installed.
On my daily driver I don't have an oil cooler but it's a N/A 2L motor with only 130 hp@ the fly stock. But the 2.3L N/A 160 hp engine have one.
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Even for a stock RB20 there sould have an oil cooler. The RB20 is one of the only turbo engine I know coming from factory without any oil cooler at all.
WTF nissan ?
I installed an oil filter bracket of a RB25 and the factory oil cooler of the CA which is bigger than the one of the RB25.
The oil heat up to 85°C pretty fast, and stays between 85 and 100°C as long as I don't go berserk. When I hit the gas pedal and the use the whole rev range the oil climb to 120°C in 10 mins or so on the road.
So even with a factory oil cooler bigger than the RB25 unit I still have my oil temp too high.
I bought a 16 row mocal oil cooler with a 92°C thermorstat. I should install it next week. I hope it will be sufficient to keep the oil within 120°C on track.
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SR are awesome engines when it comes to spool turbo's.
A friend of mine have an HX35w on his forged SR20, with the VTC he sees 15 psi by 3800 rpm, VTC OFF he has to wait 5000 rpm to get the same boost.
This ability plus the torque off boost the SR has makes it an awesome engine.
It just sound like shit on boost, ping very easily on pump gas, heat heavily it's oil with factory oil cooler and doesn't like the revs with a standard head.
I hate working on one of them. It's just as everything has carefully been designed to irritate you. And a lot of bolt love to break the second you want to unscrew them.
In NA form they also perform quite well despite their head, sounds beautiful with cams and are almost unbreakable.
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I have the kando highflow (20g compressor, garrett stage 3 turbine wheel), and it's laggy for a lot of people.
Not a proper dyno that's why I didn't posted it on the RB20 dyno thread but it shows how the turbo behave :
For those who are not familiar with those units :
261 kW/294 ft/lbs.
Supposedly at the crankshaft, with the SAE J1349 correction factor.
This is a smartphone App that turn your car into an inertial dyno, precision is said to be accurate if set correctly. I've done my best to set the app the best I could but take those numbers with a grain of salt.
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My turbo is the kinugawa Highflow, garrett stage 3 turbine mated to a 20g compressor.
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The thing is the EFR 7064 bolt to the standard manifold without problem. Using the drawings of a 7064 there SHOULD be more than enough clearance with the manifold runners.
The 7163 needs an other exhaust manifold T25 or T4 flanged, and for peace of mind, heat release in the engine bay and stealthiness I prefer keeping the standard manifold which exclude the 7163.
And my actual turbo is pretty similarly sized as the 7064. I have a "6865" turbo in EFR naming scheme.
I actually have 1.4b a little before 4000 rpm, I can live with that and I'm currently in the process of fitting an 4.363 final drive ratio in my R200 (3.916 standard on EUDM S13) to compensate.
I'm not after a torque monster RB20 (obviously lol ) I just wonder how the 7064 could compare to this boost threshold. I know that boost response will be so much better but in term of rpm to full boost I can't tell.
Ideally I wouldn't sacrifice more low end, the engine start to pull from 3000 rpm and with the 4.363 it will be alright for the road.
And having a lower boost threshold will not give much more torque to the lil RB20, it has an FFP so it doesn't fill it's cylinders at low revs.
Even with the tune, the boost climb below 2000 rpm but the torque doesn't fully follow the boost, so I'm really aiming at the 4k-8k revs range where all the RB20 shine. -
Do you have a boost curve of a 7064 on a RB or any common engine to share ?
I'm possibly interested in the 7064 for my RB20 but I wasn't able to find much info on this EFR, most of users going the 7670 route.
I played with the match-bot but I'm not sure of the boost threshold of this turbo on the RB20. It could be extremely good to rather bad and both setup "looks" realistic on the match-bot.
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I hace this one on my 20 :
http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/upgradeturbochargerrb20detrb25detwstage3turbine68mmcomp450bhp.aspx
It start to boost before 2000 rpm in 4th gear, hit 1b by 3500 rpm and 1.4b before 4000 rpm and hold it to redline set à 8200 rpm.
I find it very responsive for a 65mm inducer turbine, the engine is still a rb20, no torque at all below 2000rpm, and sluggish below 3500 rpm.
The engine has stock internal, just a custom made front facing plenum, a FMIC and a 3" exhaust system as power adder. Stock cast manifold, oem S13 airbox with a paper filter in it so nothing fancy.
The turbine housing just had a ceramic coating to avoid heat leakage in the engine bay. I didn't ported the wastegate port at all and the boost control is good to me but is sensitive to the spark advance throwed at the engine. With the stock tune I couldn't get the boost lower than 0.9b, with just a lot more spark advance the boost lowered to 0.7b with nothing else changed on the engine.
I din't drove an other kinugawa turbo, a mate of mine got one on his CA18 (td05-20g with a billet wheel), but it's still in breaking in.
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I got my car tuned this week-end.
I have the highflow turbo with the stage 3 turbine and 20g turbine.
This is this one :
http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/upgradeturbochargerrb20detrb25detwstage3turbine68mmcomp450bhp.aspx
And the turbo is bolted to an RB20DET with DW 444cc injectors, Z32 maf, ffp, FMIC, bcpr7es gapped to 0.8mm and standard S13 airbox mith some minor mods made to it to attach the Z32 MAF, the standard R32 airbox feed and a 4" boa placed right at the airbox entry getting fresh air from the oem air feeding for the standard SMIC. The airbox contain a standard paper filter.
With the standard tune I had some problems to control the boost, I couldn't set it lower than 0.9b. I tried 3 different spring (1b, 0.8b and 0.5b) and the lowest boost I was able to achieve was still 0.9b with the 0.5b spring with the least amount of preload.
After some change on the tune (mainly a lot of spark advance), the boost finally went down to 0.7b on the actuator alone. At this stage I was having more torque and power than with the standard tune at 0.9b.
We plugged back the EBC (an old fashioned profec B), and set the boost quickly to 1b.
The turbo is still a slow spooling one, it starts to boost pretty early (1500~2000 rpm given the gear), but it doesn't hit 0.5b until 3000 rpm, the engine start to pull from 3500 rpm but it needs really 4000 rpm to shine.
No problem to hold the boost until the rev limiter set to 7800 rpm. We didn't increase the rev further because we suspected some valve floating when hitting the rev limiter.
We bolted a microphone to the head to hear the knock, that's how we suspected the valve floating.
At 1b of boost we encoutered almost no knock on the engine, and the engine was really rev happy pulling more and more as the revs were climbing.
Then we incresed the boost slowly until we hit 1.4b. The turbo responded very well despite the weak 0.5b spring. It spool well and hold steady at 1.4b until rev limiter again, without any taper whatsoever.
The engine was more prone to knock, especially in 4th gear beyond 6500/7000 rpm. We had to lower the spark advance to avoid any knock after several pull.
With 1.4b, the mid to high rpm range (4000 to 6000) is a lot fatter, but the engine seem to lose some torque beyond 6500 rpm or so. That's partly because we backed off the spark advance to avoid knock but I don't know if this is because of the turbo pushing hotter air or the turbine/turbine housing beginning to restrict the engine breathing.
But it still pull well beyond and is able to do 260+ km/h pretty easily even with the super tall 5th gear.
The engine was tuned at 12/12.2 AFR and reach 920°C of EGT at the very top of 4th gear and in 5th gear beyond 6200/6500 rpm.
We backed off something like 3° of spark from the very beginning of knock.
The engine never passed the 88°C of water temp and 115°C of oil temperature and we never had a misfire. It relly makes me confident over him, it's like it didn't ever sweat during the tune.
No dyno yet, the tune was made on the road, the Z32 maf peak at 4.46v in 2nd 3rd and 4th and a little lower in fifth but I never passed 7000 rpm in fifth (that's 280+ km/h territory with my final drive ratio of 3.916).
The turbo is not grinded on the wastegate port, it just have a ceramic coating and the egt probe bolted in the turbine housing.
I'm pretty happy of the turbo for now, no strange noise, it respond well, a little slow to spool but that's an RB20 after all. The power is pretty impressive for someone used to a mighty CA18 with a stage 3.
Beyond 4000 rpm the RB20 is really shining over the CA, below the CA was more torquey.
So not a bad turbo for the price, we'll see how long it last or if i'm tired of it before it dies.
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Which gear and which final drive ratio on your S13 ?
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I simplified the cooling circuit when I changed the intake manifold.
Now the return goes from the turbo directly to the water pump bypass.
On the original circuit the return goes partly to the radiator and partly to the waterpump bypass.
Whats Better?
in Naturally Aspirated Performance
Posted
+1
I removed the pod on my 20det and I didn't noticed nor measured any power reduction. The turbo is quieter and the engine bay looks so much nicer than with a pod lying where it can.