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deongster

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Posts posted by deongster

  1. On the R35 BM size - confirmed Fitting Size = M12 x 1.0 

    R32 Fittings Sizes = -3 JIC

    Cost so far:

    Brake Master - $189

    Brake Booster - $149

    3M of 10mm Silicone Hoses - $34

    Aluminium One Way Valve - For Booster - $13.50

    HEL Custom Lines below - $150

    Left Fitting -Swivel Male
    Left Fitting Size - M12x1.0  
    Left Fitting Angle - 70°
     
    Right Fitting - Swivel Female
    Right Fitting Size - 3/8" x 24 UNF (-3 AN JIC)
    Right Fitting Angle - 45°
    Length - 20cm
     
    image.thumb.png.9c18b560c89c332e0a842eed9e34b833.png

    I rounded the nut on the master for the old R32 brake line - it was completely seized - so i decided to custom 2 lines from Master to the ABS unit.

    Front Master Port - $75.00
     
    Left Fitting - Fixed Male 
    Left Fitting Size - 3/8 x 24 UNF (-3 AN JIC) 
    Left Fitting Angle - Straight 
    Right Fitting - Swivel Male 
    Right Fitting Size - 3/8 x 24 UNF (-3 AN JIC) 
    Right Fitting Angle - 70° 
    Length - 97cm - extra 1cm

    Rear Master port - $75.00

    Left Fitting - Fixed Male 
    Left Fitting Size - 3/8 x 24 UNF (-3 AN JIC) 
    Left Fitting Angle - Straight 
    Right Fitting - Swivel Male 
    Right Fitting Size - 3/8 x 24 UNF (-3 AN JIC) 
    Right Fitting Angle - 70° 
    Length - 91cm - extra 1cm

    This is how the line will roughly look like:

    image.thumb.png.d3f69b5fc8fa1cdcc0deaa21384a5cc0.png

    332808026_176364501812714_5217128666932624682_n(1).thumb.jpg.a865451620218319b869fa0158ab0b53.jpg333003612_3521060741511220_8274232529391343397_n.thumb.jpg.f7e7a4c702bc46e6b15e5bdc2d72624b.jpg335016031_625456392729126_3720102994372258975_n.thumb.jpg.aa53c1894983aa923436d765011f15fe.jpg

    This is roughly how it looks out of the car ^ i have made a few adjustments to the Angle of the BMC Fitting - as well as threw the adapter away cos it was the wrong size - and remade the whole line again. But it looks very similar - the most updated line specs is above

    This is how i plan to run it - please use imagination a bit - i will take more pictures once its installed. But the 2 lines will run across the firewall similar to the original hard lines.

    image.thumb.png.98cf00f91cd063b61fef258f541d64d6.png

    Confirmed the Plug is the same as BM57 - its quite hard to get the plug - it is shared with a LOT of different cars - R35, Pathfinder, G35, Subaru WRX, Ford Fiesta - but its almost impossible to buy one - and 100% impossible to get in Au

    I found the details in the thread below - have to thanks to @BK for ALL the research he did - especially in where to purchase. MOTORCRAFT WPT-1385 is the part number - meant for Ford. Wired up - it will fit perfect.

    image.png.2a2690ba78283fffa51e12a57d7565b6.pngimage.thumb.png.6ff14ba2611ccca68b65539af8c105c1.png

    image.thumb.png.0dccd5762504231161386691c00bb6d4.png

    Below is the Final completion - remove the 4 nuts in the car cabin at the brake - and remove the R32 BMC and Booster

    R32 Right booster

    image.thumb.jpeg.2f11a347e07e0a2a7253c6fb26e44a42.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.850af040cd39932bc1aedaef8f229056.jpeg

    R32 and R35 U Clevis and - the one at the bottom is from the R32 GTR - MUST reuse this for R35 Booster

    image.thumb.jpeg.2cad6fe9c292bc55a3a24ba10e9bc948.jpeg

    There is a Spacer for the R35 that looks like this - this will not need to be used - it should be mounted directly on the FireWall

    WhatsAppImage2023-07-04at8_48_07PM.thumb.jpeg.244481a0438f2e2ef80a1133d7e69026.jpegWhatsAppImage2023-07-04at8_48_06PM.thumb.jpeg.a3f648330f5968a6297044b5192917ef.jpeg

    Just use the Gasket and put the Booster on the Firewall

    image.thumb.jpeg.159b0c00e3752bd173fd1af48a68d5a4.jpeg

    Roughly how it looks when mounted up

    image.thumb.jpeg.2bb38e61f165f03a7da97480a64cb0bd.jpeg

    This is the complete work - with 2 sets of Custom HEL lines.

    image.thumb.jpeg.8ce2ecce70604456cd3731d259dda92d.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.bd1f47307c579bc26ed17641fbbe1c87.jpeg

    Once installed - i found the following - the brake pedal is slightly lower than the R32 Original

    WhatsAppImage2023-06-26at12_37_22AM.thumb.jpeg.5b81edc3a72cb808178ff6c69770e91f.jpeg

    Overall it was very easy to do - and a massive learning process for me. Had a lot of help along the way from @BK and @Meap that did all these first. I hope whoever that attempts this moving forward - this Post will help you. The biggest problem i faced when doing this was the BMC Fitting size and how to run the lines. As well as old rounded lines on original lines.

    The brake pedal 100% feels firmer and more solid - i will be doing a track day on Thursday - will report back after.

    Good luck!!

    • Like 4
    • Thanks 2
  2. On 24/06/2023 at 9:56 PM, Meap said:

    I know you also commented on my post, but you didn't post this picture there. I don't use that spacer, just put a paper gasket between the booster and the firewall and you're good to go!

    Few questions - just want to make sure i did it right. @Meap @McGarryR32

    The “U” the clevis pin goes through is shorter on the 35 but can be swapped over for your original one as they’re the same thread.  (regarding this) do you notice your brake pedal sitting a bit lower than the stock height? i had to adjust the switch lower so that its touching. i have adjusted the bolt to the end of the U but the pedal is a bit lower - is it the same for you guys as well?

    image.thumb.png.e5463da0ead8fa611632255e5908b885.pngimage.thumb.png.fb564b7dde92b57ad98b274426e7bbcf.png

  3. On 17/04/2022 at 12:53 AM, McGarryR32 said:

    Was unable to find one a good booster for my R32 so thought I’ll try and do an R35 conversion. 

    First drive with it there and brake feel and stopping power is incredible. 

    The bolt pattern for the servo at the bulkhead is identical so no drilling needed. However bolt pattern and angle of mounting for the master cylinders are different so you’ll have to use a 35 cylinder. 

    The “U” the clevis pin goes through is shorter on the 35 but can be swapped over for your original one as they’re the same thread. 

    You’ll need some male to male fittings for standard brake lines to extend round as the fittings for the brake lines are on the other side for the 35 unit, you’ll need fittings for the cylinder (I think 7/16th, I’ll be honest I handed the parts guy the cylinder and said get me something that fits that) I’ll likely redo these with braided lines and banjo bolts in future.

    Finally you’ll need some 10mm fuel hose to connect the vacuum reservoir to the booster as the fitting is on the other side 

     

    8BF45F9D-3030-4FDD-8EB8-5BC68DE0B295.thumb.jpeg.e6dad53712116ad2e50fec5e46ce15d8.jpegFAE0F58E-0533-4D1B-88BE-7F9E95644E70.thumb.jpeg.1507f09969a65d8c373feb2382921666.jpeg93AB6ADF-7C09-40E2-A636-2F8BDF79A60F.thumb.jpeg.df407ae4285419a9ea10d155e56d4b54.jpeg

    hey mate have a question - do you use the R35 aluminium spacer? from your pics it doesnt look like you do but jsut need confirmation

     

    image.thumb.png.aa499c49e32a9725f19b702a48cf14f9.png

  4. All good guys - most helpful thread ever. I am doing a R35 Brake Master and Booster Conversion - Its the same sensor.

    image.thumb.png.4c60ad3e8548f61e531059e87353ce36.png

    Just one question - Is there Polarity for the wiring - or it does not matter @BK thank you for all your help

     

  5. Coming along rather nicely - so i will document a bit here to assist this post. (All Prices in AUD)

    Hopefully the hoses are long enough - looks long enough... 

    On the R35 BM size - confirmed size = 7/16 - and for the R32 Side = 3/8

    Will attempt it soon when my Brake Fluid arrives

    Cost so far:

    Brake Master - $189

    Brake Booster - $149

    HEL Custom Lines (made a mistake here - should have gotten the Left Fitting as a Male 7/16 - then i would not need the adapter below) - $120

    Left Fitting -Swivel Male
    Left Fitting Size - 7/16" x 20 UNF (-4 AN JIC) 
    Left Fitting Angle - 90°
     
    Right Fitting - Swivel Female
    Right Fitting Size - 3/8" x 24 UNF (-3 AN JIC)
    Right Fitting Angle - 45°
    Length - 20cm

    3M of 10mm Silicone Hoses - $34

    Aluminium One Way Valve - $13.50

    Brake Tube Adapter - Male 7/16 NS, Female 3/8 (this is unnecessary cost - i made a mistake when i ordered the HEL lines) - $34.70

    332374899_1205279790381924_670552316546493035_n.thumb.jpg.3df43e0d9947e82f2fbf5e1b7388c594.jpg332808026_176364501812714_5217128666932624682_n(1).thumb.jpg.a865451620218319b869fa0158ab0b53.jpg333003612_3521060741511220_8274232529391343397_n.thumb.jpg.f7e7a4c702bc46e6b15e5bdc2d72624b.jpg335016031_625456392729126_3720102994372258975_n.thumb.jpg.aa53c1894983aa923436d765011f15fe.jpg

    I rounded the nut on the master for the old R32 brake line - it was completely seized - so i decided to custom 2 lines from Master to the ABS unit.

    Front Master Port - $75.00
    Left Fitting - Fixed Male 
    Left Fitting Size - 3/8 x 24 UNF (-3 AN JIC) 
    Left Fitting Angle - Straight 
    Right Fitting - Swivel Male 
    Right Fitting Size - 3/8 x 24 UNF (-3 AN JIC) 
    Right Fitting Angle - 70° 
    Length - 97cm - extra 1cm

    Rear Master port - $75.00

    Left Fitting - Fixed Male 
    Left Fitting Size - 3/8 x 24 UNF (-3 AN JIC) 
    Left Fitting Angle - Straight 
    Right Fitting - Swivel Male 
    Right Fitting Size - 3/8 x 24 UNF (-3 AN JIC) 
    Right Fitting Angle - 70° 
    Length - 91cm - extra 1cm

    This is how the line will roughly look like:

    image.png.1cc5aead44a126d743dc6b18386401e9.pngimage.thumb.png.d3f69b5fc8fa1cdcc0deaa21384a5cc0.png

    This is how i plan to run it - please use imagination a bit - i will take more pictures once its installed. But the 2 lines will run across the firewall similar to the original hard lines.

    image.thumb.png.98cf00f91cd063b61fef258f541d64d6.png

    Confirmed the Plug is the same as BM57 - its quite hard to get the plug - it is shared with a LOT of different cars - R35, Pathfinder, G35, Subaru WRX, Ford Fiesta - but its almost impossible to buy one - and 100% impossible to get in Au

    I found the details in the thread below - have to thanks to @BK for ALL the research he did - especially in where to purchase. MOTORCRAFT WPT-1385 is the part number - meant for Ford.

    image.png.2a2690ba78283fffa51e12a57d7565b6.pngimage.thumb.png.6ff14ba2611ccca68b65539af8c105c1.png

    image.thumb.png.0dccd5762504231161386691c00bb6d4.png

     

    • Like 3
  6. On 09/06/2022 at 8:04 AM, Meap said:

    I'm already in contact with him, but thanks!

    Reason I made a new post is because he isn't 100% sure what size the fittings are, and I was wondering if maybe there was someone who does know.

    I'll figure it out sooner or later! (Latest when I buy an R35 BMC and realise my current braided lines don't fit haha!)

    How did you go with this? I also bough AN3 braided male - i think its wrong size... do you have pic of wiring?

  7. On 17/04/2022 at 12:53 AM, McGarryR32 said:

    Was unable to find one a good booster for my R32 so thought I’ll try and do an R35 conversion. 

    First drive with it there and brake feel and stopping power is incredible. 

    The bolt pattern for the servo at the bulkhead is identical so no drilling needed. However bolt pattern and angle of mounting for the master cylinders are different so you’ll have to use a 35 cylinder. 

    The “U” the clevis pin goes through is shorter on the 35 but can be swapped over for your original one as they’re the same thread. 

    You’ll need some male to male fittings for standard brake lines to extend round as the fittings for the brake lines are on the other side for the 35 unit, you’ll need fittings for the cylinder (I think 7/16th, I’ll be honest I handed the parts guy the cylinder and said get me something that fits that) I’ll likely redo these with braided lines and banjo bolts in future.

    Finally you’ll need some 10mm fuel hose to connect the vacuum reservoir to the booster as the fitting is on the other side 

     

    8BF45F9D-3030-4FDD-8EB8-5BC68DE0B295.thumb.jpeg.e6dad53712116ad2e50fec5e46ce15d8.jpegFAE0F58E-0533-4D1B-88BE-7F9E95644E70.thumb.jpeg.1507f09969a65d8c373feb2382921666.jpeg93AB6ADF-7C09-40E2-A636-2F8BDF79A60F.thumb.jpeg.df407ae4285419a9ea10d155e56d4b54.jpeg

    I have purchased everything - Booster, BMC, 10mm Hoses - only thing i would need your help with is the wiring - do you think you can share some images? 

    I also got some Steel Braided hoses for the BMC to the original lines - hope they work! Will upadte here when i start the process of getting it in. I attached pic here

    I have a 6 pot 4 pot set up - and the BMC50 - i think is insufficient - i lost brakes at the track yesterday - leg went all the way down on first lap - was very spongy on high rpm but nice and firm driving normally - i reckon is the booster or one of the lines - so i decided to change everything to do with the BMC, Booster, Vacuum hoses. And i totally get why you did this mod - i find i makes perfect sense - especially when its almost plug and play.

     

     

     

    Screenshot 2023-02-24 at 8.09.35 pm.png

    • Like 1
  8. So let me bring everyone up to speed - i took the leap and got a Midori Seibi Red G Sensor - the more aggressive one

    1462403670_ScreenShot2018-10-05at11_53_02AM.thumb.png.80f250f6785e3774d7da236b35fd4435.png

    346417959_ScreenShot2018-10-05at11_52_52AM.thumb.png.1c1d479cc7fb2f3e4de746bc2af16052.png

    It was very easy to replace for the 32 GTR - direct remove old G Sensor - It comes complete with Brackets for a remove old and plug & play new.

    I installed it and went for a Bathurst Supersprint the same weekend - i had issues with my Clutch throw out bearing but i thought it would survive the race - arrived there and did 2 runs down the hill into the chase to end on the straight - finished 21 / 70 cars that day with 2 runs in. 

    What i noticed :-

    1. Car felt slower coming out - though the times speak differently - its more composed and coming out of bends the car felt flatter
    2. You will notice the Torque sensor moving slightly and in less gains - compared to the on and off from the old g sensors
    3. i destroyed my throw out bearing so i had to tow the car back (pic for reference) lol did a good one.

    1481704152_ScreenShot2018-10-05at11_56_28AM.thumb.png.466f5fd40274f67271b6d0a3cf6d4d5e.png

    Lost motivation after this - so i left the car for a couple of months and said - hey lets do it again - Got an ATS twin plate carbon clutch and a new ATS rear diff - got it installed

    Headed to Wakie in August - it was a long hiatus

    My last session at Wakie was 1:13 dry - then it started raining - last year. The car didnt feel as composed and the tail kept on trying to come out - at the fish hook - so throttle control with the old G sensor was very very sensitive 

    This August with the new G Sensor - i finished the day with 1:09 before the brakes decided its time for new pads - so that was the quickest i could do with Z222 Hankook RS3 275/35/18 - UHP street tires - with 4 degree weather. 

    What i noticed :

    1. The car still felt slow coming out of bends - felt flatter that i felt previously at Bathurst and not so twitchy - and i noticed this time is due to the fronts coming in earlier at a more gradual rate (torque meter movement - slow and steady) - making the car feel slow but the fronts are actually pulling you while the rear do the work
    2. i can keep the car with its tail just at an angle - while putting on the power much earlier and just pointing the front where i need it to be - inducing a nice slide out of Fish hook saving lots of time
    3. On the brakes - the car feels flat - not twitchy

    Overall i rate them - for being a pure plug and play without any adjustments - it improved the characteristics of the old girl quite dramatically - i personally think - with a bit more control using this G sensor - would make it even more amazing (getting a Ruzic / torque controller mated to this G sensor)

    So in my opinion - if anyone wants to go more and prob better - i think the DTMII looks like an amazing choice - or an ETS Pro which i think would be ultimate upgrade.

    Either way - if you want a fuss free - no wiring - plug and play = improvement - i do say the Midori Seibi - is great upgrade for the older G sensors of the 32 GTR. It sends its reading a lot quicker and it makes the ol girl so much more lively.

    Hope this helps anyone thinking of a G sensor - i have a friend who purchased the latest Tarzan G Box - when his car is out - i will write another review here on it.

    772639255_WhatsAppImage2018-10-05at11_32_26AM.thumb.jpeg.8dedaf319f9703d182727612b1062bc6.jpeg

    • Like 3
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