BlackR32

Hi All, I am sure this is a re post but I did a search and found everything but. I have just rebuilt my engine, pretty much stock other some some oil flow extras The car has aftermarket hi flow steel wheel bb turbos, exhaust, and a mines ecu. Can anyone tell me how much pressure i can safely put into the motor? Im scared of blowing it up all over again. (Oil pump killed it the first time)

\super charged 1jz, no doubt

Hi all, selling my stock GTR crank also a crank collar, crank will need machining (would need anyway to get the collar onto it). Item: Crank and collar Condition:Requires machining for crank collar fiting and shimmed for ballance Price: Not sure really, have seen a crank go this week that also needed machining for $350, and have seen these collars go for upto $250... Just make me an offer. To Fit: Well you acn put it in what ever you want I don't mind. Location: Canberra Contact: PM Me Comments: pretty much covered above.

BUMP, Good luck with sale.

if its still there I will take it. trying PM

pm sent re clutch

If this was two months ago I would have jumped on it. Good luck with sale THIS IS A STEAL FOR THAT PRICE!!!!

As Title says, I am looking for the lip that I have seen on the end of some r32GTR's, I don't know what its called, Any help would be great. Thanks

sp the game plan it to rotate the cam until timing ir right./? hmmm me thinks i need a timing light.

now do you mean up at the cam angle sensor? Becuase I always figured that if I was a tooth off it wouldnt run smoothly.

yes it reads in mmg or what ever, just had a look... now heres teh thing, it revs up perfectly, you cannot fault the car for how smooth it is running, but I just got smashed by a v6 magna... so the pressure is reading at 0.6 mmg which it always did, and the car just has no go. you can feel the boost but it doesnt kick you in the arse like it did before build.

I am as far as \i know. I am running th car gently for the most part, putting load on it up hills but not too much and so on, but from my reading I know that you shouldn't be gentle on it always sometimes you need to give it a hard time. also i am on the home straight only 150 k left to go on my 1000, but when i put the foot down there is boost but just not much power. makes me sad.

checked hoses, still nothing... any other ideas?

I hate it when I have teh simple stuff pointed out to me when I didn't bother ( My mate actually did the brakes under my supervision while I was doing the engine... the pads prolly need a clean... How do I bed the pads in properly? Cheers.

ok then, now I have not walked out to teh car to check, but suppose the EVC is reading in mmhg as well... that would mean I am still on the right boost and getting no power at all. Can the cam angle sensor being slightly off cause this problem? I marked everything for replacing and its all in the same spot but still shit happens... I really appreciate your help so far all.

Hi all, I just baught some brand new slotted rotors for my gtr (i think rda, but dont really remember), put them on, with brand new pads (just oem replacements) and they make a really REALLY load squealing noise when I am braking, much worse at low speeds.. The anti squeak metal pads are in place any ideas? thanks.

Hey all, thanks for the help so far, but it only ever sat on 6 psi, and was plenty fast, sometimes when I was feeling adventurous I would lift it up past 10 psi but not really very often. Any other thoughts? I will look into that though thanks )

Update... although I can feel the boost I am not conviced that I can beat a v6 magna to 100, or to 140....... point is its running smoothly but very slow whats wrong with my GTR?

Hey all, Hoping for some input : I just rebuilt my GTR motor after the oil pump failed and took my crank along with it. I replaced the oil pump (n1) the crank (33 gtr) the rings (n1) and bearings… I put a sump baffle in also… thank that’s about it. Now the engine is still on running oil at the moment. I’m not sure if this would have an impact or not. Now… I have A greddy boost gauge which is not hooked up properly electrically, but also I have a HKS EVC which is working just fine, the EVC is reading 6 pounds which is what I have always run at but the car just seems a bit slow. More to the point I drove my mates supra the other day which has ever had anything on the GTR but I’m SURE the supra is running faster than my car. Now I know I shouldn’t be smashing the car while its running and I’m not, but when you DO put the foot down, it feels like its running on lower boost… runs dead smooth but just not fast. The boost is definitely coming on. Just not convinced its running as fast as it did. The head was shimmed before putting back on , and the rings are new, so it shouldn’t be compression… Any other ideas at all?

Hey all, hoping for some input: I just rebuilt my engine have had the oil pump die and drag my crank to hell with it... so new crank, bearings rings pump and so on... No I am running the engine in at the moment and on the home stretch, but the car feels like it lacks power compared to what it used to... I drove my house mates supra the other day which has nothing on my GTR and I swear its running faster than mine ( It's still on "running in" fluid, I have a Greddy boost gage and a HKS EVC which reads the boost also... and of course the stock gauge which means nothing to anyone... the Greddy gauge isn't reading properly, its just bouncing around and not actually doing anything even close to measuring vac/boost thats just because I havent connected the electrics back up for that properly I assume. The HKS EVC is messuring me at 6 pounds which is what I always ran but the car just feels a little lack luster. By rights I would have though... considering the head was shimmed before putting it back on and the rings have been replaced, my compresion should be a little even if not measurably higher. So the engine is back together to every spec and torque... Any ideas?

BumbleBee : cheers for that, you clarified what I was thinking... the only other question is how long must I run the engine in before I change the oil? then to what oil? I understood that I needed to do so for 2000 to 5000 ks. also someone suggested that going from mineral oil to synth oil would cuase it to curdle, but I don't see how that can occur. any help?

Thanks for your help guys, I think I will pick the brains of the mechanics I know for a while before anything, but mineral oil it is. Really appreciate your help. cheers

I have primed the oil pump with assembly lube so it will make vaccume and pump the oil through, so that should be ok, mostly just concerned about the oil its self. So, so far we think that 5 - 40 or better still 0 - 40 will be the go. anything else anyone? Not having your car for 6 months really recks your nerves when it comes time to crank her over.

As the post says, about to start the engine for the first time. I don't know what oils to run in it for the run in period. Very anxious about turning the key, does anyone have any advice? Would really appreciate it. Thanks. H

anyone?