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Jordy32

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Posts posted by Jordy32

    A Reminder To Check Your Radiator Fan For Cracks And Stress Fractures

    in General Maintenance

    Posted

    With regard to the sensitivity of the dash temp gauge; mine (NM35 Stagea) sits in the same spot, 1 needle width below halfway.

    It is exactly the same from 73 degrees to 116 degrees.

    When bleeding the cooling system the temp spiked briefly to 123 degrees ( recorded as peak hold on Greddy Informeter) and the gauge only rose one graduation.

    I believe that the gauge is quite non-linear in the "allowable range" but once you go outside; it ramps aggressively to get your attention.

    I have no idea how this relates to the RB gauge.

    I have a Yahsio factory gauge (which uses the ECU sender in the coolant neck) in my car and from about 60 degrees up to about 100 the needle doesn't move at all

    Like you, while bleeding it i must've caught a hot air bubble and it spiked to 115 or so and the needle, much like yours hardly moved at all

    Take from that what you will, i guess that's why we run aftermarket gauges right? :P

    • Like 1

    Jordy's R32

    in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

    Posted

    Christmas is gone and done, hope you all enjoyed yourself!

    The car has been given some love. Over the break i replaced Oil w/ liquimoly oil flush and filter, Spark plugs and Coil packs. I also gave the AFM a clean while it was out

    I then gave my new foam lance a go! what a cool idea!

    cKfhAKcl.jpg

    Then i took it to family lunch and somehow survived from the city out to dural without getting pulled over, i did however see about 10 highway patrol cars.. that was fun. :P

    7AGfFRvl.jpg

    Next up, clutch and engine swap i think! - Inter cooler kit is in the mail plane from japan so i've heard, hoping for it to arrive this week! - time to start looking for an EBC and ECU!

    Jordy's R32

    in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

    Posted

    I've been having intermittent misfires and the typical coughing and spluttering over the last few months, it's been okay as i only drive the car once a week if that right now so it hasn't really bothered me, however my fuel pump has started making a mean groan which sounded absolutely horrible and before i got stranded somewhere with a dead fuel pump i thought now would be a good time to replace it

    I came home from work this evening to a care package from Kudos, i purchased the Walbro GSS-341 (255lph) which came as a kit with everything required to install it into the stock position which is great if your car (like mine) still has the factory pump

    With the street as my workshop and the sun as my light source i decided to start before it got too dark

    Firstly i removed my old pump, be patient with this, be sure not to put too much pressure on the fuel level floater / sender unit
    UqAic3cl.jpg

    Here is a comparison of the new walbro compared to the stock pump
    bZpYBGQl.jpg

    To fit the pump in with the stock fuel pump basket you'll need to bend the base off it, the little hook looking part flat, and then cut it off

    Y5jLhdSl.jpg

    Now attach the fuel pump to the tube which has the barb on it with the supplied hose clamps and new fuel hose
    TJiwuKSl.jpg

    Attach the filter sock to the base of the pump and lock it on with the small barbed pin/circle clip
    vzFKeDwl.jpg

    From here i used a Stainless steel cable tie to hold the pump to the basket to stop it moving around, people have used hose clamps however i didn't have a big enough hose clamp handy and the stainless cable tie works fine and looks great :)
    NilWH9pl.jpg

    After crimping the connections to the supplied plug i plugged the pump in, and reinstalled it back into the fuel tank and turned my car on to make sure it was all working.

    Car is purring nicely now on idle, it's also feeling much more lively and less hesitant not to mention the misfire seems to have disappeared! All in all a cheap and good upgrade i would suggest to anyone who is unsure of the history of their fuel pump

    Cheers, Jordy

    • Like 1

    Jordy's R32

    in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

    Posted

    Yeah i understand that, a lot of my friends say the exact same thing but i like taking things slow and doing them right :)

    It's not all that bad to be honest, the engine is on a stand, i have most of the parts ill need to get it running all sitting there ready to go and my car is still running so I'm not really missing out on much, i get the bus and/or walk to work every day so i don't need a car for anything but enjoyment

    It is quite true though, much easier to sell up and buy a turbo car, you save time, money and your sanity :whistling:

    But sorry, im not getting rid of this any time soon :wub::wub:

    gXNRy5Ul.jpg

    • Like 1

    R34 Gtt Intake Options. Plazmaman Vs Greddy

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted · Edited by Jordy32

    Is that applicable to the GTT Though Jord? And i dont want to remove anything, i was just under the impression i would have to with the greddy setups.

    Hmm, good point actually.

    Here is a photo of the underside of my Greddy plenum, while it is for an R33 RB25DET I'm sure it would be quite similar underneath? sorry for any confusion :)

    ae7MuCrl.jpg

    EDIT: sorry that photo is average, it's the only one i have on my phone at the moment! :P

    Jordy's R32

    in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

    Posted

    Not selling n/a car to p plater and buying turbo. Building own turbo car.. like a baaws!

    Might do the same to my gts r33. Respect :yes:

    I think it helps my car was originally turbo, so i have the brakes and diff already, it's just got an NA motor in it at the moment lol

    In saying that, people have told me over and over to just buy a turbo car, but i like my car too much to just sell it, and i'd end up paying through the roof for genuine GTR bits all over again.. no thanks

    Do what makes you happy :)

    • Like 1

    Jordy's R32

    in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

    Posted

    Just been working on the new engine recently, parents are heading away for a week in the new year so hoping to steal the carport and drop the new engine in then, hopefully everything lines up and it's possible

    Here's some pics of what i've been up to

    Today i got around to installing my "RB25 Heater Hose kit" - Notice the quotation marks.. After modifying a few hoses with a large knife and replacing all of the hose clamps for peace of mind, we were in business. I also cleaned the intake side valves, and replaced my thermostat and housing.

    QWVjRCel.jpg
    - Previous hose clamp installer decided to rattle gun these on apparently..

    GTMVoYkl.jpg

    - Armed with a red bull, i started

    A1OwhEll.jpg

    - Pretty much done, all i need to do is mock up 1 line from the oil cooler as the "kit" doesn't have one that fits, bit of a shame

    After working on the heater hoses for about an hour, i was going to mount up my Greddy plenum, but before that i decided to clean out the IACV and Cold Start Valve as these are notorious for playing up, and generally quite difficult to get to while the engine is in

    IACV / AAC - Idle Air / Accessory Air Control Valve

    There is tons of information online about cleaning this valve out, the easiest way is to simply unbolt it from your plenum, and blasting the buildup of oil and gunk out of it with carby cleaner. Nissan do make a replacement gasket, which can be found for sale on Kudos. Part number: 23785-57Y00

    g174n86l.jpg

    - Here is the valve, commonly filled with oily gunk after years of use. I gave mine a wipe on the outside too

    Y7bSjc6l.jpg
    - The previous owner of this valve musn't have known that nissan acually make a gasket for this part and decided to use about half a tube of gasket maker on it which made cleaning the insides of it and the gasket surface to my standards a 30 minute job, hopefully i'll never need to touch that again

    Cold Start Valve

    Found under the plenum in a very inaccessible location is the cold start valve and after 20 years of engine use it also tends to be full of oil and gunk and it is suggested you clean it out, again with carby cleaner

    cEDJUZkl.jpg

    - Here is the valve in question, it is located on the under side of your plenum and comes apart with 4 screws.

    A7C6W9Wl.jpg

    - I didn't take a before photo, but after spraying the crap out the valve it turned up nice and clean. Remember to make sure the mating surface is clean and replace the gasket.

    Thermostat Housing

    Available for purchase from kudos, i personally like to replace the thermostat housings as they tend to get brittle after years and years of use

    P5xx3zSl.jpg

    - Brand new, looks good!

    tsjFs4pl.jpg

    - New thermostat and housing

    lj6XFnAl.jpg
    - Be liberal

    When reinstalling, be sure that the thermostat is pointed in the right direction with the "UP ^" on the thermostat facing 12 o'clock. The housing can be bolted to the block and the 3 bolts torqued to 17-21 foot pounds

    00wM47pl.jpg

    Now that the intake side is complete, it's time to move onto the exhaust side, where i'll cover manifold and turbo instillation as well as required lines and fittings to make everything work

    Cheers, Jordy

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