yoshiii335

How is this set up for you?

Oh really? Never heard of this war before lol. I have always been told to just find a good set of adjustable coil overs. The car I have came with HKS HyperMax D's, they are not made anymore, I don't know the specs on them. The damper rate is adjustable. I was taught to just adjust it based on what kind of driving I was going to do. The coil over I have now are getting about to be replaced. The ones I mentioned above above are fully adjustable with camber and damper rate. My handling is better than what it was, I had my alignment done at a car performance shop, a shop that does alignment and suspension for cars for track, drift, street, etc. They set it up for street, highway driving at fast speeds. There is a big difference in the way it drives now. I take corners and curves with more ease now and the car handles it well, I was surprised. I just want to have good handling when I go putting more horse power into the car(400-500hp). Their are not lots of choices are far as coil overs for the r32 here in Japan now as I guess it used to be. So can I buy coil overs and just change the springs? Or do I have to keep the springs that come with the coil overs?(sticking to the set up the makers set.) Why doesn't tower bars help with skylines much? Nismo sells them.

Hello If I decide to go the rb25 into the r32, there is a place in the states where I can get a wiring harness that has already been made to use with a rb25 into a r32. It has been made to have everything working such as the windshield wipers, VCT, etc. So I have read that I would bolt the rb20's acillearies onto the rb25. But I read that some people had problems with the powersteering pump since it only has one hose from it compared to the rb20's which has three, two for the hicas and that getting the powersteering belt with the correct length is difficult. The old posts that I read about this didnt have any clear cut solutions. What are some solutions for this? My hicas is working so I do not want to take it out.

Ok So that means pistons, chambers, valves etc could be messed up or they may not be. Hmm I have to decide if I am going to take that chance. Would buying a working rb25 and building it up be better than buying one that may have to have more parts replaced? Or will it be about the same if I am going to build up the engine?

Ok I forgot to add that I have front and rear tower bars on the car. The coil overs I am looking at are: Front 9k:8/10/11 default height -45mm Front recommended -65mm and 7k:6/8/9 default height -35mm recommended -65mm rear

The shop is a well known shop. Anytime they get something that they dont know about, they put in the junk section or reduce the price to a cheap price. If somethings in the junk section, doesnt mean doesnt work, just mean pieces missing, old, or no information on it.They will usually put whats wrong with something or what condition it is in on the label. Dont think its in the junk section. This engine they dont know if anything is wrong with it. They did the checking I mentioned earlier. Not sure if it has their normal one week garuntee on it. If it does, there is no why I can have it put in the car in a weeks time. Its 650.00 dollars

leak down, how would I do that?

Still learning about how coil overs, springs and everything works together as far as the rates, etc. I know I want to be able to go into curves well and have good grip in the rain. Not going to speed fast in the rain. Here there are lots of curvy roads and it rains lots. Not drifting, not doing that.

I use Federal 595ss on the front and have some Pirelli's Cinturato P-7's on the back. THe Federals are pretty good and the Pirellis not too bad, good gripe. I will probably go with all Federals when its time to change tires. The newer ones of course since the 595ss are discontinued. I don't mind rolling the inner fender to make the tires to fit.

Hello I found a rb25det at a used car parts store, its been there for about 6 months or more. The staff doesnt know if it runs or not. They only test they did was check to see if the crank turns and take a look at the gears and things underneath the front gear cover. Is there any way to check the engine besides taking it apart to see it maybe its working or not? I wouldnt be able to take it apart unless I buy it

I will replace if have too, just wondering if the aftermarket parts are necessary.

ok Did you have to get another alinement?

oh, I thought only the rear fit. I will check into this.

Which size?

Hello I will either tune my rb20 det to 400hp with supporting mods, or buy a rb25 det and tune it to 500hp or maybe even a 26 and tune to 500hp. I have 17" 225/40 wheels/tires on the front. Want to change to 17" 235/40. 17" 245/45 wheels/tires on the back. Want to change to 255/40 if can fit. I am going to get the Nismo 2 way LSD. I have HKS coil overs. My hicas works fine. Is there anything else I can do to make sure I am getting power to the ground? I dont want to go sideways unless I want too, and what to make sure I can handle curves, take offs, and driving well since I have rwd car.

What brands besides White line are good? Is using the GTR ones good? What is a recommended size if I go with the White Line?

Cool

Hello If I am not drifting, but building car for the street and the occasional track day, are after market sway bars worth it? I have a 32 gtst. I want to make sure I can take corners well on the street/high way and if I go to the track.

Hello If not building a track car and only aiming for 400hp in a rb20det or 500 hp in a rb25 det, is it necessary to put in aftermarket valves, valve guides, etc if doing a engine rebuild due to the age of the engines and wanting reliability or are stock ones good? Are oversized valves worth putting in?

Hello I have a r32 gtst I have to replace my lines that connects my powersteering resouviour to the hard lines. How do I drain the power steering fluid? I have searched on line and the results keep giving how to delete Hi-Cas.

Stupid questions, well not stupid, but where is the knock sensor? I am not having idling problems so would it be a CAS problem? from some of those thousands of webpages I have read, most say that when idling goes bad is when you look into the CAS, TPS, AAC Valve, etc. Ok, resolder sounds like something that would be easy to do. Suggestions on what gauge solder to use?

Hello I posted before I was having trouble with my car due to a fuel pump going bad. Changed the fuel pump to a Nismo one, car drives better now, smoother. The car cut offs, the hard to reach 3000rpm problems went away. But acouple of problems still happens. After hard acceleration sometimes, once or twice a day, the car will have no power(no cutting off), as if time froze. The car will be very slow but wont cut off, after about 5-10 seconds of keeping my foot on the acelerator, the car will drive normally again. Last night when I was doing some good driving, not driving too fast, just driving the car with good aceleration and going into boost sometimes, I came to a light, when it turned green and I acelerated and was shifting into third( was trying to pick up some quick speed aka go fast), the car drove very slowly, I kept pressing the acelerator and the car started jerking for about 3 seconds and than drove normally after that. Things I have done in the past few months. Back in Nov last year, changed to new spark plugs, changed out old coil packs and wiring harness with known working used ones. I had a bad coil pack and the car wasn't running correctly. Before that there was some weird coil wire set up the previous owner had in the car. I returned it to stock. Car drove great after that. When the hesitating, car cut off problem happened three weeks ago, I changed the fuel pump(it was dying), last week changed to a new fuel filter, and have cleaned the AFM twice within a weeks time. Two days ago when I last cleaned the maf, I bought a new pod filter (Aplexi) and installed it, the old one was dirty and worn. Also before I changed the fuel pump I took out the spark plugs and there was a little black carbon build up on the tops of the plugs, cleaned the plugs. I have read and researched and it seems that it can be either my maf can be bad even after cleaning it, or bad coil packs, or bad ignitor. I am running a tuned computer and the spark plugs I changed out to are HKS with the correct gap and temp rating. Changing to a new maf or new/aftermarket coil packs is expensive. Any suggestions on what might be the problem?

Ok Maybe will just at the Sonic Turbos than.

Sorry, what does doses mean? is that positive or negative? Good but shitty turbo?

Ok billet, I read about those. The only billet turbos I can find for the rb20 are from Sonic Performance, The GTX turbos by Garrett. The Hypergear Hi Flows seems to be non billet.